Color galore in Paris as menswear gets bold

There was color galore at Paris menswear shows Friday, with John Galliano channeling the hues of the rainbow for Maison Margiela and Cerutti 1881 featuring flashes of gold. The Alexander McQueen fashion house mixed in flashes of red to an otherwise dark display of menswear.

Some highlights of the fall-winter shows:

A RAINBOW AT MAISON MARGIELA

A model wears a creation for Maison Margiela men's Fall-Winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday, Jan.19, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

John Galliano studied the science of the rainbow for a colorful and typically quirky collection.

A clinical white venue, populated by myriad staff in their signature white lab aprons, led the eye down to a bright yellow runway. Its large oval shapes brightly evoked the rays of sunlight and suggested the inspiration for the fall-winter display.

A model wears a creation for Comme Des Garcons men's Fall-Winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday, Jan. 19, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

From a vermilion coat with sloping shoulders to a sunny yellow bubble jacket, narrow blue pants and a belted, deep saffron knitted coat — the collection looked as if Galliano had separated each of the colors refracted in a rainbow. Science and the laboratory have been a touchstone for the brand for years.

Tongue-in-cheek garments of practical use in the rain were mixed in with the 30 couture-infused designs. There were transparent rain caps that gave a 1950s edge, and a see-through PVC belted rain coat that was on-trend in its play on texture, layering and transparency.

Silhouette-wise, large lapels and slightly cinched waists were dominant.

As fashionistas left the grand Hotel des Invalides venue, the world outside warmed up too: The winter drizzle suddenly stopped, giving way to rays of sun.

Lauded designer Galliano has been called many things in his career, but a weather forecaster must be a first.

___

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN'S SUITS

There was more than a flavor of London in Alexander McQueen's sophomore Paris show.

The Saville Row suit and tie — with an archetypally British red-check sweater — was the starting point for a display shown in an industrial, disused office space.

A model wears a creation for the McQueen men's Fall-Winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday, Jan.19, 2018. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

A model wears a creation for the McQueen men's Fall-Winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday, Jan.19, 2018. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

It was clear that this buttoned-up vibe would give way to more creative explorations when in the next look, a black business-like parka jacket — wrapped around the waist — billowed out like Asian samurai pants.

A suit in chocolate had wide shoulders and unusually-shaped tapered sleeves, which added an edge to the classic garment.

And references to the '80s — such as a shimmering snake-patterned Glam Rock coat and an oversize red-check scarf — injected some fun into a collection, which tipped more toward the commercial than the house's womenswear does.

___

MCQUEEN MENSWEAR NOW A PARIS STAPLE

In a sign of the growing importance of both menswear and Paris to the fashion industry, Alexander McQueen is now — with the house's second men's runway show in the City of Light — a firm staple of the calendar.

A model wears a creation for the McQueen men's Fall-Winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday, Jan.19, 2018. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

A model wears a creation for the McQueen men's Fall-Winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday, Jan.19, 2018. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

A model wears a creation for the McQueen men's Fall-Winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday, Jan.19, 2018. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

Founded by the late designer Alexander McQueen in 1992, the house had shown menswear designs in previous seasons by appointment in Milan and London before it made its Paris runway debut last season.

The CEO since 2016, Frenchman Emmanuel Gintzburger, had been tasked with expanding the fashion-forward brand. This move puts the men's designs in line with the lauded womenswear collections that are shown in Paris during ready-to-wear week in the spring and fall.

___

JUUN J.'S NECK SCULPTURES

South Korean designer Juun J. often plays with oversized shapes, and for the latest fall and winter collection he took his signature themes up a notch with a highly sculptural collection defined by huge bubble jacket material tied around the models' necks.

The palette was typically tame, with its black, white and blown-up check infused with flashes of vermillion and pale yellow, but the shapes less so.

A huge black bubble jacket, knotted around a female model's upper half, obscured the body alongside a bubble "skirt" with a fine corrugated surface clumsily wrapped around the bottom half. Its myriad hanging tassels further adding to a visual kinesis.

Much of this haphazard body "wrapping" was more sculptural and creative than actually wearable.

A black check suit with multiple layers was given an abstract twist with a shiny bubble jacket around the neck that looked almost like the inflatable neck pillows you find on airplanes.

___

CERUTTI 1881'S COLOR

Designer Jason Basmajian of Cerutti 1881 loves color.

Although his restrained fall-winter designs featured darker hues than normal, there were rick pickings for anyone who likes a bright wardrobe.

Models wear creations for Cerruti 1881 men's Fall-Winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday, Jan.19, 2018. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)

Models wear creations for Cerruti 1881 men's Fall-Winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday, Jan.19, 2018. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)

A model wears a creation for Cerruti 1881 men's Fall-Winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday, Jan.19, 2018. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)

A beautiful military green coat in soft wool looked huggable, as did a pair of fluffy sports-infused eggshell pants.

A gold shirt evoked the rich fabrics of India, and the rich color also cropped up on a Cerutti logo sweater and a sporty women's coat with black fanny pack.

There was a sporty edge to many of the 47 looks as is increasingly common with many menswear brands around the world.

Chief Creative Officer Basmajian brings a business approach as well as an artistic one to his fashion designs. Friday's saleable collection was a case in point.

France’s Sports Minister Amélie Oudéa-Castéra and Secretary of State for Digital Affairs Marina Ferrari have been discussing ways to ensure mental health is looked after at the July 26-Aug. 11 Paris Games and Aug 28-Sept. 8 Paralympics.

Oudéa-Castéra pointed out the continued threat of cyberbullying to mental health in society in general, a risk she says is magnified when high-profile athletes are continually in the spotlight.

“Athletes as well as many of our citizens are exposed to these risks,” she said. “We are implementing the tools to help our athletes, but also our young and all French people.”

A study carried out by France’s National Institute of Sport, Expertise, and Performance (INSEP) showed that 15% of athletes have shown signs of high anxiety or depression, with the first signs of psychological difficulties beginning on average at the age of 17.

The risk factors themselves are already well-known. They include being away from family for sustained periods of time, pressure from fans, expectations from sponsors, reactions from angry gamblers losing bets, fear of failure and constant pressure to get results. These factors are magnified by constant exposure on social networks.

So plans are in place to better protect mental health going forward.

Starting from June, the website France.sport dedicated to top-level athletes will have a “Santé Mentale” (Mental Health) section, which athletes can click onto. It features a guide with practical advice and a self-evaluation questionnaire. The athlete also has access to a psychologist recommended by INSEP. The same services will continue after the Games, and are also available for coaching staff.

INSEP will also work with other French sports organizations on a presentation to raise awareness on risks linked to mental health among athletes.

France's sports minister is working with other ministries on ways to develop and support the profession of Mental Coach — someone who works closely with athletes to help with their mental preparation in order to improve their performance.

At the Olympic Village in the suburb of Saint-Denis, a safeguarding officer from the French Olympic and Paralympic delegation and three welfare officers (who are trained psychologists) will be onsite during the Games. They will offer assistance to athletes and staff members who are experiencing mental health difficulties and, if needed, they can be mobilized to support athletes who are staying outside of the main Village.

The safeguarding officer on site is also dovetailing as a designated person of trust who alerts social network platforms in case of serious problems happening online.

An online application called Bodyguard is already being used by the French Tennis Federation and the French soccer league to give athletes better online protection, including content arriving in their private messages if they so wish.

“The psychological stability of athletes deserves all of our attention. More than ever, they should feel safe and should be supported when they go through moments of difficulty or doubt or have a need to express themselves,” Ferrari said. “The context of (athletes') lives exposes them to increased risks. They should be cared for with regards to these risks.”

Further discussions are scheduled to be held in the coming weeks with the main social network platforms.

AP Olympics: https://apnews.com/hub/2024-paris-olympic-games

From left, French athletes Arnaud Assoumani, Pauline Deroulede, Romain Cannone, and Melina Robert-Michon stand on stage as they wear the French team uniforms for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games opening ceremony, Wednesday, April 17, 2024 at the Grand Palais Ephemere venue in Paris. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)

The countdown clock reading 100 days before the Paris 2024 Olympic Games opening ceremony is seen Wednesday, April 17, 2024 in Paris. The Paris 2024 Olympic Games will run from July 26 to Aug. 11. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)