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Chanel's garden delights as Givenchy designer debuts couture

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Chanel's garden delights as Givenchy designer debuts couture
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Chanel's garden delights as Givenchy designer debuts couture

2018-01-24 15:18 Last Updated At:15:19

Rose scents mingled with celebrities such as Marion Cotillard, Sofia Coppola and Rita Ora at Chanel on Tuesday as showman Karl Lagerfeld recreated a verdant garden to showcase his bucolic couture designs. Elsewhere in Paris, Givenchy's new designer unveiled her highly anticipated couture debut.

A model wears a creation for French fashion designer Alexis Mabille's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection, presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

A model wears a creation for French fashion designer Alexis Mabille's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection, presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Some highlights from Tuesday's spring-summer 2018 shows:

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A model wears a creation for French fashion designer Alexis Mabille's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection, presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Rose scents mingled with celebrities such as Marion Cotillard, Sofia Coppola and Rita Ora at Chanel on Tuesday as showman Karl Lagerfeld recreated a verdant garden to showcase his bucolic couture designs. Elsewhere in Paris, Givenchy's new designer unveiled her highly anticipated couture debut.

A model wears a creation for the Chanel Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Some highlights from Tuesday's spring-summer 2018 shows:

A model wears a creation for the Chanel Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Inspired by the geometric curves in the furniture, Lagerfeld went back to nature — and to Chanel's couture roots — for a display of pure drama constructed with geometric detail.

Models wear creations for French fashion designer Alexis Mabille's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection, presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

A raglan style — one that extends in one piece fully to the collar — seemed to inspire the beautiful and surreal arm shapes that descended stiffly like a tapered tube. Shoulders were wide and dramatically curved.

A model wears a creation for French fashion designer Alexis Mabille's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection, presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

The styles were firmly set to the 1950s — the years following the austerity of World War II that produced long exuberant lengths of fabric, hyper-femininity and hourglass silhouettes.

French fashion designer Alexis Mabille accepts applause after the presentation of his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection, presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Mabille didn't forget to have fun.

A model wears a creation for Giorgio Armani's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 23, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

ARMANI PRIVE'S WATERCOLOR-INSPIRED DESIGNS

Models wear creations for Giorgio Armani's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 23, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A minimalist satin bodice in oyster led the eye to a dramatic whoosh of silk spilling from the waist. But elsewhere, some looks — though beautifully constructed — saw a complicated silhouette and busy patterns vying for attention.

A model wears a creation for Giorgio Armani's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 23, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Nevertheless, it was a hit for celebrities such as Marion Cotillard and Isabelle Huppert, who applauded vigorously from the front row.

GIVENCHY DESIGNER'S COUTURE DEBUT

A spooky, floodlit chateau in Paris' historic Marais area was the venue Clare Waight Keller chose to stage her first couture show since being appointed creative director at Givenchy last year.

Guests were led up a dimly lit stairway as discordant music played to a mysterious hall with shimmering crystal chandeliers. The edgy music and venue represented the future and the past.

The sublime couture creations harked back to the designs of house founder Count Hubert de Givenchy — but Waight Keller infused them with a fashion-forward touch.

The house's signature sharp shoulder — here, often on shoulder-draped coats — was a running style in the diverse looks that mixed hard and soft. In the more architectural moments, Waight Keller evoked the spirit of Givenchy's mentor, Cristobal Balenciaga.

Lines — rigid bodices, cinched waists and a hard V-shaped decollete — fused with delicate materials. Feathers flashed vermillion peeking from the inside of a coat and a softly tiered full skirt bled from purple to electric orange and cobalt blue.

It made for some sublime looks that remained highly feminine at all times.

Dark romance was at the heart of this accomplished display, which was possibly the best seen all season.

CHANEL'S GARDEN COUTURE

Chanel's fragrant garden featured architectural wooden arbors, white roses and a babbling water fountain.

A model wears a creation for the Chanel Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

A model wears a creation for the Chanel Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Inspired by the geometric curves in the furniture, Lagerfeld went back to nature — and to Chanel's couture roots — for a display of pure drama constructed with geometric detail.

The stone-colored clothes teamed with soft floral embroideries and frothy details. Models including Cindy Crawford's daughter Kaia Gerber wore sweet pink, white and purple posies in black tulle hair-pieces.

The devil's in the detail and this season, Chanel was all about the sleeve.

A model wears a creation for the Chanel Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

A model wears a creation for the Chanel Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

A raglan style — one that extends in one piece fully to the collar — seemed to inspire the beautiful and surreal arm shapes that descended stiffly like a tapered tube. Shoulders were wide and dramatically curved.

Full skirts flared out like giant bells in a crisp line shared this surreal quality.

Lagerfeld is an ambitious man, and elsewhere his 69 designs also channeled the tiered fashions of the swinging 1920s.

DIANE KRUGER ON HER GRITTY FILM ROLE

Though she was overlooked for an Oscar nomination, "Inglourious Basterds" star Diane Kruger is still buzzing from the critical acclaim surrounding her challenging role in the movie "In The Fade."

Kruger plays a steely woman whose life falls apart after her husband and son are killed in a bomb attack.

The German-born actress, who attended the Armani Prive couture show in a black tuxedo and sequined gown, said that this film "definitely" comes at a good time for feisty female roles in cinema.

"It's a very strong female role," she said.

"The protagonist was originally written for a man so it was changed for a woman, which is always great," she added.

DIOR'S MASKED BALL

Masked revelers danced into the early hours of Tuesday at the soiree event of couture week: Christian Dior's surrealism-themed masked ball at the Rodin Museum.

Actress Monica Bellucci stepped onto the checkered chess board set in a vivid red lace Dior gown, while model Bella Hadid stunned in a revealing black tulle shoulder less dress, hugging singer Courtney Love effusively.

Guests in check face masks that sometimes impaired vision negotiated around giant 2-meter chess pieces, faceless dancing performers and hanging surrealist sculptures in the marquee venue that was also used to showcase the historic design house's spring and summer couture styles.

A wall of white arms, some fake and some real (belonging to hidden performers), handed out white roses to passers-by who snacked on white chocolate playing cards served on a green poker table cover.

ALEXIS MABILLE'S OLD-SCHOOL GLAMOUR

The red carpet said it all: French designer Alexis Mabille turned on the glamour for a display of classic couture gowns.

Models wear creations for French fashion designer Alexis Mabille's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection, presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Models wear creations for French fashion designer Alexis Mabille's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection, presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

The styles were firmly set to the 1950s — the years following the austerity of World War II that produced long exuberant lengths of fabric, hyper-femininity and hourglass silhouettes.

A floor-length satin gown in coral sported a giant floppy bow at the waist, while one in dark cobalt saw an abbreviated take on a fifties jacket as a bustier and was paired with full length evening gloves.

A model wears a creation for French fashion designer Alexis Mabille's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection, presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

A model wears a creation for French fashion designer Alexis Mabille's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection, presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

Mabille didn't forget to have fun.

A series of balloon gowns — with curved hems gathered around inside — were the strongest pieces in the show.

Each consecutive skirt sported an even bigger explosion of fabric, until the show reached a dramatic crescendo in a circular bottle green gown that spread out from the bust.

French fashion designer Alexis Mabille accepts applause after the presentation of his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection, presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

French fashion designer Alexis Mabille accepts applause after the presentation of his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection, presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan.23, 2018. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

ARMANI PRIVE'S WATERCOLOR-INSPIRED DESIGNS

Even a fashion master can have off days.

Tuesday was a mixed couture bag for Giorgio Armani, who explored the theme of watercolor in an exhaustive collection of shimmering pastel gowns that combined too many divergent ideas.

Armani's best looks kept it simple.

A model wears a creation for Giorgio Armani's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 23, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A model wears a creation for Giorgio Armani's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 23, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A minimalist satin bodice in oyster led the eye to a dramatic whoosh of silk spilling from the waist. But elsewhere, some looks — though beautifully constructed — saw a complicated silhouette and busy patterns vying for attention.

Models wear creations for Giorgio Armani's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 23, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Models wear creations for Giorgio Armani's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 23, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Nevertheless, it was a hit for celebrities such as Marion Cotillard and Isabelle Huppert, who applauded vigorously from the front row.

A model wears a creation for Giorgio Armani's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 23, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A model wears a creation for Giorgio Armani's Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2018 fashion collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 23, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

SWAROVSKI AT HOTEL DE CRILLON

No luxury detail was overlooked at the launch of Swarovski's eyewear collection inside the revamped Hotel de Crillon, which reopened last year after a 200-million euro refurbishment.

Views of the sparkling Place de la Concorde delighted guests, including model and actress Poppy Delevingne, socialite Olivia Palermo and actress Morgane Polanski, the daughter of director Roman Polanski.

The eyewear was displayed on stands and featured opulent use of crystal in architectural designs inspired by the Atelier Swarovski jewelry collections, which were also shown off at the event.

Guests then tucked into a lavish meal that included wine from the famous vineyard Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

PARIS (AP) — Students in Paris inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses in the United States blocked access to a campus building at a prestigious French university Friday, prompting administrators to move all classes online.

The pro-Palestinian protest kicked off a day of drama at the Paris Institute of Political Studies, known as Sciences Po, which counts President Emmanuel Macron and Prime Minister Gabriel Attal among its many famous alumni.

Protesters first occupied a central campus building and blocked its entrance with trash cans, wooden platforms and a bicycle. They also gathered at the building’s windows, chanting pro-Palestinian slogans, and hung out Palestinian flags and placards.

Later Friday, pro-Palestinian and pro-Israeli demonstrators faced each other in a tense standoff in the street outside the school. Riot police stepped in to separate the opposing groups.

As night fell, a dwindling group of pro-Palestinian protesters refused to budge, ignoring police orders to evacuate the street and warnings of possible arrests. Eventually, demonstrators came out of the building, carrying a large Palestinian flag, to cheers from the protesters who had been supporting them outside. They then started to stream peacefully away from the area, watched by police.

Among protester demands was that Sciences Po sever ties with Israeli schools. In an email to students, Sciences Po administrator Jean Bassères pledged to hold a townhall meeting in the coming week and to suspend some disciplinary proceedings against students. In return, students “committed to no longer disrupting courses, examinations and all other activities of the institution,” the email said.

The Gaza war is sharply divisive in France, which has the largest populations of Muslims and Jews in western Europe. France initially sought to ban pro-Palestinian demonstrations after Hamas’ surprise Oct. 7 attack on Israel that sparked the war. Antisemitism has surged.

On Wednesday evening, more than 100 pro-Palestinian protesters had also occupied a Sciences Po amphitheater. Most agreed to leave after discussions with management but a small group of students remained. They were removed by police later that night, according to French media reports.

The university administration closed all university buildings and moved classes online Friday. It said in a statement it “strongly condemns these student actions which prevent the proper functioning of the institution and penalize Sciences Po students, teachers and employees.”

Louise, a protester, said the students' actions were inspired by similar demonstrations at New York's Columbia University and other U.S. campuses.

“But our solidarity remains first and foremost with the Palestinian people,” she said. She spoke on condition that only her first name be used over concerns of repercussions.

Students protesting the Israel-Hamas war have been digging in at Columbia University, one of a number of demonstrations roiling campuses from California to Connecticut.

Hundreds of students and even some professors have been arrested across the U.S., sometimes amid struggles with police.

——

Barbara Surk contributed from Nice, France.

Students stage a sit in in front of Sciences-Po university in Paris Friday, April 26, 2024. Students in Paris inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses in the United States blocked access to a campus building at a prestigious French university Friday, prompting administrators to move all classes online. The pro-Palestinian protest at the Paris Institute of Political Studies, known as Sciences Po, came two days after police broke up a separate demonstration at one of the university's amphitheaters. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

Students stage a sit in in front of Sciences-Po university in Paris Friday, April 26, 2024. Students in Paris inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses in the United States blocked access to a campus building at a prestigious French university Friday, prompting administrators to move all classes online. The pro-Palestinian protest at the Paris Institute of Political Studies, known as Sciences Po, came two days after police broke up a separate demonstration at one of the university's amphitheaters. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

A student wave a palestinian flag outside Sciences-Po university in Paris Friday, April 26, 2024. Students in Paris inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses in the United States blocked access to a campus building at a prestigious French university Friday, prompting administrators to move all classes online. The pro-Palestinian protest at the Paris Institute of Political Studies, known as Sciences Po, came two days after police broke up a separate demonstration at one of the university's amphitheaters. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

A student wave a palestinian flag outside Sciences-Po university in Paris Friday, April 26, 2024. Students in Paris inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses in the United States blocked access to a campus building at a prestigious French university Friday, prompting administrators to move all classes online. The pro-Palestinian protest at the Paris Institute of Political Studies, known as Sciences Po, came two days after police broke up a separate demonstration at one of the university's amphitheaters. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

Members of the Jewish community in France demonstrate near the Sciences-Po university Friday, April 26, 2024 in Paris. Students in Paris inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses in the United States blocked access to a campus building at a prestigious French university Friday, prompting administrators to move all classes online. The pro-Palestinian protest at the Paris Institute of Political Studies, known as Sciences Po, came two days after police broke up a separate demonstration at one of the university's amphitheaters. (AP Photo/Jeffrey Schaeffer)

Members of the Jewish community in France demonstrate near the Sciences-Po university Friday, April 26, 2024 in Paris. Students in Paris inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses in the United States blocked access to a campus building at a prestigious French university Friday, prompting administrators to move all classes online. The pro-Palestinian protest at the Paris Institute of Political Studies, known as Sciences Po, came two days after police broke up a separate demonstration at one of the university's amphitheaters. (AP Photo/Jeffrey Schaeffer)

A woman holds a Palestine flag near Sciences-Po university in Paris Friday, April 26, 2024. Students in Paris inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses in the United States blocked access to a campus building at a prestigious French university Friday, prompting administrators to move all classes online. The pro-Palestinian protest at the Paris Institute of Political Studies, known as Sciences Po, came two days after police broke up a separate demonstration at one of the university's amphitheaters. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

A woman holds a Palestine flag near Sciences-Po university in Paris Friday, April 26, 2024. Students in Paris inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses in the United States blocked access to a campus building at a prestigious French university Friday, prompting administrators to move all classes online. The pro-Palestinian protest at the Paris Institute of Political Studies, known as Sciences Po, came two days after police broke up a separate demonstration at one of the university's amphitheaters. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

Students blocking Sciences-Po university display Palestinian flags, in Paris Friday, April 26, 2024. Students in Paris inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses in the United States blocked access to a campus building at a prestigious French university Friday, prompting administrators to move all classes online. The pro-Palestinian protest at the Paris Institute of Political Studies, known as Sciences Po, came two days after police broke up a separate demonstration at one of the university's amphitheaters. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

Students blocking Sciences-Po university display Palestinian flags, in Paris Friday, April 26, 2024. Students in Paris inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses in the United States blocked access to a campus building at a prestigious French university Friday, prompting administrators to move all classes online. The pro-Palestinian protest at the Paris Institute of Political Studies, known as Sciences Po, came two days after police broke up a separate demonstration at one of the university's amphitheaters. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

A student walks past th entrance of Sciences-Po university in Paris Friday, April 26, 2024. Students in Paris inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses in the United States blocked access to a campus building at a prestigious French university Friday, prompting administrators to move all classes online. The pro-Palestinian protest at the Paris Institute of Political Studies, known as Sciences Po, came two days after police broke up a separate demonstration at one of the university's amphitheaters. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

A student walks past th entrance of Sciences-Po university in Paris Friday, April 26, 2024. Students in Paris inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses in the United States blocked access to a campus building at a prestigious French university Friday, prompting administrators to move all classes online. The pro-Palestinian protest at the Paris Institute of Political Studies, known as Sciences Po, came two days after police broke up a separate demonstration at one of the university's amphitheaters. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

Riot police officers head to Sciences-Po university in Paris Friday, April 26, 2024. Students in Paris inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses in the United States blocked access to a campus building at a prestigious French university Friday, prompting administrators to move all classes online. The pro-Palestinian protest at the Paris Institute of Political Studies, known as Sciences Po, came two days after police broke up a separate demonstration at one of the university's amphitheaters. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

Riot police officers head to Sciences-Po university in Paris Friday, April 26, 2024. Students in Paris inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses in the United States blocked access to a campus building at a prestigious French university Friday, prompting administrators to move all classes online. The pro-Palestinian protest at the Paris Institute of Political Studies, known as Sciences Po, came two days after police broke up a separate demonstration at one of the university's amphitheaters. (AP Photo/Michel Euler)

Students block the Sciences-Po university Friday, April 26, 2024 in Paris. Students at a prestigious university resumed pro-Palestinian protests on Friday, days after French police broke up a demonstration, inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses around the United States. Dozens of students the Sciences-Po university blocked an entrance to a campus building in central Paris with chairs and bikes. (AP Photo/Jeffrey Schaeffer)

Students block the Sciences-Po university Friday, April 26, 2024 in Paris. Students at a prestigious university resumed pro-Palestinian protests on Friday, days after French police broke up a demonstration, inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses around the United States. Dozens of students the Sciences-Po university blocked an entrance to a campus building in central Paris with chairs and bikes. (AP Photo/Jeffrey Schaeffer)

Students blocking the Sciences-Po university flash the V sign Friday, April 26, 2024 in Paris. Students at a prestigious university resumed pro-Palestinian protests on Friday, days after French police broke up a demonstration, inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses around the United States. Dozens of students the Sciences-Po university blocked an entrance to a campus building in central Paris with chairs and bikes. (AP Photo/Jeffrey Schaeffer)

Students blocking the Sciences-Po university flash the V sign Friday, April 26, 2024 in Paris. Students at a prestigious university resumed pro-Palestinian protests on Friday, days after French police broke up a demonstration, inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses around the United States. Dozens of students the Sciences-Po university blocked an entrance to a campus building in central Paris with chairs and bikes. (AP Photo/Jeffrey Schaeffer)

Students blocking the Sciences-Po university look out Friday, April 26, 2024 in Paris. Students at a prestigious university resumed pro-Palestinian protests on Friday, days after French police broke up a demonstration, inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses around the United States. Dozens of students the Sciences-Po university blocked an entrance to a campus building in central Paris with chairs and bikes. (AP Photo/Jeffrey Schaeffer)

Students blocking the Sciences-Po university look out Friday, April 26, 2024 in Paris. Students at a prestigious university resumed pro-Palestinian protests on Friday, days after French police broke up a demonstration, inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses around the United States. Dozens of students the Sciences-Po university blocked an entrance to a campus building in central Paris with chairs and bikes. (AP Photo/Jeffrey Schaeffer)

Students blocking the Sciences-Po university flash the V sign Friday, April 26, 2024 in Paris. Students at a prestigious university resumed pro-Palestinian protests on Friday, days after French police broke up a demonstration, inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses around the United States. Dozens of students the Sciences-Po university blocked an entrance to a campus building in central Paris with chairs and bikes. (AP Photo/Jeffrey Schaeffer)

Students blocking the Sciences-Po university flash the V sign Friday, April 26, 2024 in Paris. Students at a prestigious university resumed pro-Palestinian protests on Friday, days after French police broke up a demonstration, inspired by Gaza solidarity encampments at campuses around the United States. Dozens of students the Sciences-Po university blocked an entrance to a campus building in central Paris with chairs and bikes. (AP Photo/Jeffrey Schaeffer)

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