London fashion: 70s vibe at Mouret, glamour from Temperley

Could fusty-looking tapestry and army boots look desirable? Roland Mouret and Temperley worked their magic at London Fashion Week catwalk shows Sunday, showcasing their latest womenswear styles for the upcoming autumn and winter season alongside other designers.

Actress Michelle Dockery poses for photographers upon arrival at the Roland Mouret at the Autumn/Winter 2018 fashion week runway show in London, Sunday, Feb. 18, 2018. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Some highlights from Day 3 of the fashion week:

DIALED-DOWN SENSUALITY AT ROLAND MOURET

If there's a man who can make seemingly drab floral tapestry and thick corduroy look chic and desirable, it's Roland Mouret.

The French designer, renowned for his signature body-sculpting dresses, turned what could have been fusty sofa upholstery fabrics into sophisticated full-length capes and jackets.

Mouret, who is friends with Prince Harry's fiancee Meghan Markle, is one of the designers tipped to take on the top secret job of making her wedding dress. There were no clues on his runway at London's National Theatre, which was dominated by a 1970s-inspired, dialed-down luxe look of blazers, day dresses and light knits in a palette of autumnal hues.

Model Arizona Muse poses for photographers upon arrival at the Roland Mouret at the Autumn/Winter 2018 fashion week runway show in London, Sunday, Feb. 18, 2018. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation by designer Roland Mouret at the Autumn/Winter 2018 fashion week runway show in London, Sunday, Feb. 18, 2018. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

There were corduroy double-breasted blazers and coats in wine and soft pink, wide leg trouser suits, fluffy wool capes worn over sheer black lace blouses and dresses, and handkerchief hem crepe skirts. The tailored look, so popular this winter, is still going strong, with several outfits in the very trendy Prince of Wales grey check.

"There is practicality in femininity, and femininity is a woman's greatest power," the designer said of the brand's new aesthetic — a much softer look than the sex-bomb appeal Mouret was known for a decade ago. Coming at a time when the overt objectification of women seems passe, the message seems just right.

A model wears a creation by designer Roland Mouret at the Autumn/Winter 2018 fashion week runway show in London, Sunday, Feb. 18, 2018. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations by Temperley at the Autumn/Winter 2018 runway show in London, Sunday, Feb. 18, 2018. (Photo by Grant Pollard/Invision/AP)

AVIATOR CHIC AND FULL-ON GLAMOUR AT TEMPERLEY

From military combats to all-over sequined party frocks, Temperley's latest catwalk show has something for everyone.

Designer Alice Temperley, who counts the Duchess of Cambridge among her many fans, has won many fans for her ladylike, delicate dresses. So it was surprising when she opened her show with a cool military green aviator suit, albeit one with stylish cropped trousers and a flattering cinched-in waist.

Models wear creations by Temperley at the Autumn/Winter 2018 runway show in London, Sunday, Feb. 18, 2018. (Photo by Grant Pollard/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation by Temperley at the Autumn/Winter 2018 runway show in London, Sunday, Feb. 18, 2018. (Photo by Grant Pollard/Invision/AP)

Temperley was inspired by the first female aviators, and the whole collection had a romantic, vintage feel to it. Lace-up army boots and military-inspired jackets continued the aviator theme, though the designer soon returned to more familiar territory with a parade of silk evening gowns replete with sequins, intricate embroidery and opulent gold.

Those looking for the perfect party outfit are spoiled for choice: there are flowing bias cut dresses with a thigh-high front slit, sheer nude dresses adorned with sequined stripes, art deco patterns that hark back to the 1920s, and silk blazers and dresses with a colorful oriental-inspired cloud print. One kimono-wrap jumpsuit dazzled in an iridescent fabric that shimmered both gold and silver.

"There're lots of influences, 1930s, a bit of '70s Ziggy Stardust feel to it. I loved it," ''Homeland" actor Damien Lewis, who attended with his wife, Helen McCrory, said after the show.

A model wears a creation by Temperley at the Autumn/Winter 2018 runway show in London, Sunday, Feb. 18, 2018. (Photo by Grant Pollard/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation by Temperley at the Autumn/Winter 2018 runway show in London, Sunday, Feb. 18, 2018. (Photo by Grant Pollard/Invision/AP)

ALL-OVER SILVER AT MARGIELA

Away from the main runways, MM6, the subsidiary line of Maison Margiela, invited journalists for a drink at a pub. Not just any pub, of course — but one covered floor to ceiling in silver foil.

Part conceptual art exhibition and part fashion show, the French luxury design house painstakingly wrapped every surface of a London watering hole in foil — from walls and furniture to the beer glasses, tap and bottles behind the bar. Guests marveled, mingled and took phone photos among 19 silver-clad models posing like statues on pedestals placed around the room.

One of the staff members in white lab coats said the team started the pub's wrap job on Friday and "didn't finish until 10 minutes before the show" on Sunday.

Many of the models' outfits resembled space suits, and there were very eccentric touches: A motorcycle helmet used as a bag, disco ball mirrors as jewelry. But on closer inspection many of the garments were silver versions of Margiela staples, like a pleated skirt, jeans and a rain coat.

The display drew big crowds of international fashionistas, and the dozens lining up to get into the tiny pub became a fashion week spectacle in itself.

The WNBA wears Prada.

The stars of the game wore top fashion labels Monday night that turned the draft into a mini-Oscars where style was front and center along with the picks.

Caitlin Clark. Cameron Brink. Kamilla Cardoso. Angel Reese.

They all stepped onto the stage and met the challenge essentially every woman can identify with: Overcoming the trepidation of finding just the right outfit for that special occasion.

“There’s never been a bigger spotlight on women’s basketball, thanks in large part to players like Caitlin Clark and coaches like Dawn Staley," Rose Minutaglio, ELLE senior editor of features and special projects, wrote in an email to The Associated Press.

Usually, when a woman finds what she wants, it’s not a question of whether alterations are needed, but how much. The taller the woman, the bigger the challenge can be.

These tall ladies appeared to pass the test.

It was the perfect time for a fashionable splash just like NFL and NBA players do on their draft nights. Last year, Taylor Hendricks of UCF wore a pink suit with the jacket lined with photos representing his journey to the NBA and the people who meant the most to him.

“With more eyes on the league, players recognize the opportunity to showcase their personalities through their style,” Minutaglio said. "Because of glaring pay discrepancies, fashion partnerships and brand sponsorships will continue to play a big role for female athletes.”

Staley and her South Carolina Gamecocks' victory over Clark and Iowa in the women’s national championship game outdrew the men in television ratings, and this is shaping up to be the WNBA's most-watched draft.

The 6-foot Clark was joined in New York by the 6-7 Cardoso, 6-4 Brink and 6-3 Reese, among others. They've been busy since the NCAA Tournament, too, especially Clark, who made a surprise appearance on “Saturday Night Live."

Clark went with a white jacket and skirt with a sparkly cut-off top, sunglasses and black heels. She credited having people help her prepare keeping it less stressful.

“The first time Prada has ever dressed a male or female for WNBA or NBA draft so pretty cool,” Clark said during the WNBA's livestream from its orange carpet.

Brink and Reese wore outfits that wouldn't be out of place during Fashion Week or a red carpet in Hollywood. Brink wore a diagonal black and white dress showing off both shoulders with a slit exposing her right leg.

Reese shimmered in a hooded, backless gray dress with a plunging neckline after a late wardrobe change with help from designers Bronx and Banco, Simon Miller and Christian Louboutin.

“I got this two days ago," Reese said. "My original dress didn’t fit.”

Rickea Jackson of Tennessee made a wardrobe change between the orange carpet and the draft itself before being selected fourth overall by the Los Angeles Sparks.

“They’re just going to be falling in love with my personality,” Jackson said of Sparks' fans.

Alissa Pili, the eighth pick by Minnesota, worked with a designer to pay tribute to her Alaska Native heritage in the black and gold pattern of her dress.

Most of these glam looks didn't come off the rack.

Being tall is an advantage and not a hindrance for WNBA players. Models who grace the runways during fashion week and the covers of fashion magazines often stand at least 6 feet and taller.

The league's own growing popularity in recent years also has helped.

"Players are also starting to work directly with designers, who help outfit them, and stylists, who focus on game-day drip,” Minutaglio wrote.

This was only the second WNBA draft with fans in attendance, and 1,000 tickets sold out in February for the event at the Brooklyn Academy of Music. Fans got to attend the 2016 draft at the Mohegan Sun when former UConn All-American Breanna Stewart was the top pick.

Shakira Austin, the third overall pick in 2022 by the Washington Mystics, understands the angst Clark and others faced. While the 6-5 center was playing in college at Mississippi, Austin was forced to be creative as she struggled to find pants that fit or any clothing that captured her style.

So she got busy with a sewing machine and became her own designer. Now that Austin is in the pros, she's a fashionista tapping into her creativity, doing more than just pants, leggings and shirts. Austin told the AP earlier this year that it's a great time to dive into both modeling and clothing design.

On her way to becoming the NCAA Division I all-time leading scorer, Clark was surprised by designer Kristin Juszczyk, whose husband, Kyle, plays for NFC champion San Francisco in the NFL. She created a puffer vest with Clark's No. 22 in Iowa black and gold, putting the player in select company with the likes of pop superstar Taylor Swift.

Minutaglio said several brands work with female athletes, with Glossier and SKIMS teaming up with the WNBA specifically. She noted sports brands like Puma, Adidas and Nike all work with women in basketball.

“What’s interesting is we’re seeing players and teams branch out into high-fashion, wearing Dior and Louis Vuitton and Gucci,” Minutaglio said.

Staley herself was decked out on the sideline of the title game in Louis Vuitton, from her silver jacket down to her sneakers, grabbing attention for her look far beyond the sports pages. Minutaglio noted New York-based women's wear brand M.M. LaFleur has a multiyear deal with the New York Liberty.

“I wrote a story for ELLE in 2022 predicting the rise of WNBA game-day fashion, and since then, the looks just keep getting better and better,” Minutaglio wrote. "The fashion set is excited to see where it goes from here.”

AP Basketball Writer Doug Feinberg contributed to this report.

AP WNBA: https://apnews.com/hub/wnba-basketball

CORRECTS TO CAITLIN CLARK NOT CAITLYN CLARK - Iowa's Caitlin Clark gives autographs before the WNBA basketball draft, Monday, April 15, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger)

CORRECTS TO CAITLIN CLARK NOT CAITLYN CLARK - From left to right, LSU's Angel Reese, Iowa's Caitlin Clark and Stanford's Cameron Brink pose for a photo before the WNBA basketball draft, Monday, April 15, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger)

CORRECTS TO CAITLIN CLARK NOT CAITLYN CLARK - Iowa's Caitlin Clark, right, reacts after being selected first overall by the Indiana Fever during the first round of the WNBA basketball draft, Monday, April 15, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger)

LSU's Angel Reese blows a kiss after being selected seventh overall by the Chicago Sky during the first round of the WNBA basketball draft on Monday, April 15, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger)

Utah's Alissa Pili, right, poses for a photo with WNBA commissioner Cathy Engelbert after being selected eighth overall by the Minnesota Lynx during the first round of the WNBA basketball draft on Monday, April 15, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger)

CORRECTS TO RICKEA INSTEAD OF RICK - Tennessee's Rickea Jackson, right, poses for a photo with WNBA commissioner Cathy Engelbert after being selected fourth overall by the Los Angeles Sparks during the first round of the WNBA basketball draft, Monday, April 15, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger)

LSU's Angel Reese, right, is helped off the stage after being selected seventh overall by the Chicago Sky during the first round of the WNBA basketball draft on Monday, April 15, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger)

South Carolina's Kamilla Cardoso, left, poses for a photo with WNBA commissioner Cathy Engelbert after being selected third overall by the Chicago Sky during the first round of the WNBA basketball draft, Monday, April 15, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger)

Stanford's Cameron Brink, right, is escorted off the state after being selected second overall by the Los Angeles Sparks during the first round of the WNBA basketball draft, Monday, April 15, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger)

Iowa's Caitlyn Clark reacts after being selected first overall by the Indiana Fever during the first round of the WNBA basketball draft, Monday, April 15, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger)

UConn's Aaliyah Edwards poses for a photo before the WNBA basketball draft on Monday, April 15, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger)

Iowa's Caitlyn Clark waves to fans before the start of the WNBA basketball draft, Monday, April 15, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger)

Iowa's Caitlyn Clark, center, talks with UConn head coach Geno Auriemma before the start of the WNBA basketball draft, Monday, April 15, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger)

Iowa's Caitlyn Clark signs autographs before the start of the WNBA basketball draft, Monday, April 15, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger)

LSU's Angel Reese and Iowa's Caitlyn Clark pose for a photo before the start of the WNBA basketball draft, Monday, April 15, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger)

From left, LSU's Angel Reese, Iowa's Caitlyn Clark, and Stanford's Cameron Brink, pose for a photo before the start of the WNBA basketball draft, Monday, April 15, 2024, in New York. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger)

FILE - Louisville's Emily Engstler reacts after being selected by the Indiana Fever as the fourth overall pick in the WNBA basketball draft, April 11, 2022, in New York. Everyone likes to look good for a big night on the town. Lots of people will be watching as the WNBA’s next players turn out dressed in their finest looks for Monday night's April 15, 2024, draft. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger, File)

FILE - Georgia Tech's Sasha Goodlett, left, holds up an Indiana Fever jersey with WNBA president Laurel J. Richie after Indiana selected Goodlett as the No. 11 pick in the WNBA basketball draft in Bristol, Conn., April 16, 2012. Everyone likes to look good for a big night on the town. Lots of people will be watching as the WNBA’s next players turn out dressed in their finest looks for Monday night's April 15, 2024, draft. (AP Photo/Jessica Hill, File)

FILE - Tennessee's Rae Burrell, left, poses for a photo with commissioner Cathy Engelbert after being selected by the Los Angeles Sparks as the ninth overall pick in the WNBA basketball draft, April 11, 2022, in New York. Everyone likes to look good for a big night on the town. Lots of people will be watching as the WNBA’s next players turn out dressed in their finest looks for Monday night's April 15, 2024, draft. (AP Photo/Adam Hunger, File)

FILE - Prospective players for the 2012 WNBA basketball draft pose for a photograph at ESPN in Bristol, Conn., April 16, 2012. Everyone likes to look good for a big night on the town. Lots of people will be watching as the WNBA’s next players turn out dressed in their finest looks for Monday night's April 15, 2024, draft. (AP Photo/Jessica Hill, File)

South Carolina head coach Dawn Staley celebrates after the Final Four college basketball championship game against Iowa in the women's NCAA Tournament, Sunday, April 7, 2024, in Cleveland. South Carolina won 87-75. (AP Photo/Morry Gash)

FILE - Baylor's Kalani Brown, right, poses for a photo with WNBA COO Christy Hedgpeth after being selected by the Los Angeles Sparks as the seventh overall pick in the WNBA basketball draft, April 10, 2019, in New York. Everyone likes to look good for a big night on the town. Lots of people will be watching as the WNBA’s next players turn out dressed in their finest looks for Monday night's April 15, 2024, draft. (AP Photo/Julie Jacobson, File)