Victorian button-up meets raw punk at Paris Fashion Week

The buttoned-up styles of the Victorian era have met their nemesis in the unbridled sexuality of British punk in contrasting shows at Paris Fashion Week.

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Here are some of the fall-winter highlights from the shows Saturday, which included Vivienne Westwood, Elie Saab, and Hermes:

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD GETS SAUCY

The raw sexuality of British punk was on full display at Austrian designer Andreas Kronthaler's show for Vivienne Westwood.

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Big red-white-and-blue carpets — in the colors of the Union Jack — led guests' eyes up to the show's decor of dismembered, upside-down mannequin legs. Three scantily-clad Goth ravers climbed up onto podiums around the runway as the show began and started to gyrate provocatively.

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Lebanese designer Elie Saab acknowledges applause after the presentation of his ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The clothes channeled the punk styles that made Westwood's name in the '70s — but it was also a celebration of violent color and couture.

Models wear creations for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A diaphanous marbled pastel froufrou gown looked initially like a watercolor painting — until, on further inspection, the belt that consisted of adult toys came into focus.

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The model's thick eyebrows evoked famed Italian porn star-turned-politician, La Cicciolina. She also had barbed wire covering her lips and wore kinky red lace-up boots.

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The collection stayed true to Westwood's encyclopedia style by including Arab-style headdresses that were given an urban reworking, as well as styles inspired by the 18th century.

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The best look? A giant flame red baroque tulle hat with a period fastening under the chin.

Actress Rose McGowan, members of South African hip-hop group Die Antwoord and rappers Ninja and Yolandi Visser applauded from the front row.

Models wear creations for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

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DEAR VIVIENNE: A LOVE LETTER TO WESTWOOD

Instead of the program notes, Andreas Kronthaler left guests a photocopy of a touching love letter he'd written to his wife and design partner Vivienne Westwood, 76.

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The 65-year-old Austrian designer had handwritten the missive on blue Eurostar notepaper on Feb. 28 while traveling between London and Paris on the cross-Channel train.

Models wear creations for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

"Dear Vivienne. Heart. God how long have we known each other?" it began, before listing all the fashion influences Westwood had exerted on him over the years.

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

Models wear creations for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

"When in doubt: dress up! ... These mantras of yours and so much more became part of my life and work. I still thank you to this day," it read.

Models wear creations for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

Kronthaler first met Westwood in 1988 and they wed in 1993. He had for a long time taken the role as a silent creative partner but took over officially as a designer in recent years.

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

Kronthaler ended it: "Love you forever. Andreas."

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ELIE SAAB'S VICTORIAN FASHION

Elie Saab went to the "dark romance" of the Victorian era for inspiration for his brooding fall-winter offerings.

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The house produced a predominantly black collection of high necklines, statement bell and Juliette sleeves, defined shoulders and lots and lots and lots of ruffles.

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

There was a delicacy to some of the fabrics and detailing such as in large velvet bows draped from collars inspired by the 19th-century paintings of France's Auguste Renoir.

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Saab fused that covered-up era's styles with an exploration of all things floral — and served it on his bread-and-butter design choice, cinched-waisted gowns.

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The collection, entitled "Winter Bouquets," had blooms as prints, embroideries, and appliques in white, blush, powder blue and burgundy.

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

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HERMES SHOWS OFF ITS COLORS

With an exotic set and a glowing red runway, Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski emanated quiet power in a collection that showed off her skills as a colorist and signaled that the Hermes designer is growing in confidence.

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Starting in black, slim silhouettes in graphic styles gradually changed color and moved into powerful hues of midnight blue, vermilion, tan brown, mustard yellow and lime green.

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

With subtlety, the '80s was referenced in soft belted leather coats, shimmering leather pants and knee-high boots in contrasting colors.

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Detailing such as embroideries across a shoulder had a Latin American feel and demonstrated the famed craftsmanship of Hermes, a fashion house that in France has become a byword for luxury.

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Vanhee-Cybulski's penchant for checks produced a beautiful square brown dress.

But the real finesse was to be found in the collection's color combinations, such as when a belted jumpsuit in maroon was set off stylishly by a soft vermillion coat.

Models wear creations for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

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JUNYA WATANABE GOES TOP HEAVY

In a collection that took its vibe from the street, Junya Watanabe's edgy collection went stylishly off-kilter.

Models wear creations for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Oversize double-breasted suit jackets towered above floral leggings in an intentional effect that made the legs look like sticks. It was given greater resonance with large block-like sneakers and preppy socks.

Models wear creations for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Elements of deconstruction — such as billowing sleeves that looked like pieces of fabric snipped away, or trench coats partially hidden in fur — demonstrated the skill that showed why the Japanese fashion designer was originally the protégé of Comme des Garcons designer Rei Kawakubo.

Bright reds and blues were then injected into the color palette — such as in one statement trapeze-shaped raincoat and in one mushroom-shaped bubble jacket — giving the 41-piece show an on-trend '80s vibe.

ATLANTA (AP) — President Joe Biden will be the commencement speaker at Morehouse College in Georgia, giving the Democrat a key spotlight on one of the nation’s preeminent historically Black campuses but potentially exposing him to uncomfortable protests as he seeks reelection against former President Donald Trump.

The White House confirmed Tuesday that Biden would speak May 19 at the alma mater of civil rights icon Martin Luther King Jr., and then address the graduating class at the United States Military Academy at West Point on May 25.

The Morehouse announcement has drawn some backlash among the school's faculty and supporters who are critical of Biden's handling of the Israel-Hamas war. That could put the White House and Biden's reelection campaign in a difficult position as the president works to shore up the racially diverse coalition that propelled him to the Oval Office.

By Tuesday afternoon some Morehouse alumni were circulating an online letter that condemns the administration's invitation to Biden and seeking signatures to pressure Morehouse President David Thomas to rescind it.

The letter, obtained by The Associated Press, claimed Biden's approach to Israel effectively supports genocide in Gaza and runs counter to the pacifism that King expressed with his opposition to the Vietnam War.

“In inviting President Biden to campus, the college affirms a cruel standard that complicity in genocide merits no sanction from the institution that produced one of the towering advocates for nonviolence of the twentieth century,” the letter states, emphasizing King's stance that “war is a hell that diminishes” humanity as a whole. “If the college cannot affirm this noble tradition of justice by rescinding its invitation to President Biden, then the college should reconsider its attachment to Dr. King.”

Late last week, before the school and the White House formally announced commencement plans, Morehouse Provost Kendrick Brown, Thomas' top lieutenant, sent an email to all faculty acknowledging concerns about “rumors” and affirming that the school issued the invitation to Biden last September. That would have been before Hamas attacked Israel on Oct. 7, spurring the sustained counter-offensive that the Morehouse alumni letter called an act of genocide against Palestinians. Brown's email did not reference anything about the Middle East conflict.

Brown invited faculty to an online forum, scheduled for Thursday afternoon, to discuss the matter. But, he added: “Please know going into this conversation that the College does not plan to rescind its accepted invitation to President Biden.”

Morehouse officials have not responded to an Associated Press inquiry.

Earlier Tuesday, Thomas released a statement to BET.com that, like the provost's faculty letter, highlighted the September timing of the invitation to Biden.

Thomas said Morehouse officials “eagerly anticipate” the president's visit, which he called “a reminder of our institution’s enduring legacy and impact, as well as our continued commitment to excellence, progress and positive change.”

The Rev. Stephen Green, pastor of the St. Luke AME Church in Harlem and an author of the alumni letter, said in an interview that his group has reached out to several Morehouse trustees and hopes to speak with Thomas. Green, who graduated in 2014, called the effort part of a “common thread of protest and activism in the Morehouse tradition” of social and political engagement.

“We hope this would send a strong message that we are serious about the values were were taught,” Green said, adding that he wants to see Biden forcefully advocate for a Palestinian state and Israeli withdrawal from Gaza.

Beyond any dissatisfaction over Israel, polling suggests Biden may have work to do with Black Americans generally. More than half of Black adults approve of how he is handling his job as president, according to an AP-NORC poll conducted in March, but that’s down significantly from when he took office and 94% approved of his performance.

Biden has increasingly encountered protests this year from progressives who assert that he is too supportive of Israel. The issue has proven vexing for the president. He has long joined the U.S. foreign policy establishment in embracing Israel as an indispensable Middle East ally. Yet he also has criticized Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu for mounting civilian deaths in Gaza and told him that future U.S. aid depends on Israel taking steps to protect civilians.

The approach has left Biden with vocal critics to his left and right at a time when he has little margin for error in battleground states, including Georgia, that are expected to decide his rematch with Trump.

Biden's speech at Morehouse will mark the second consecutive spring that the president has spoken to the graduating class of a historically Black school. In 2023, he delivered the commencement address at Howard University. The Washington, D.C., school is the alma mater of Vice President Kamala Harris, the first Black woman to hold that office. Morehouse, a private all-male school that is part of the multi-campus Atlanta University Center, also is the alma mater of Sen. Raphael Warnock, Georgia's first Black U.S. senator.

Warnock, who also is senior pastor of King's Ebenezer Baptist Church in Atlanta, sidestepped any consternation on campus.

“I could not be more thrilled and honored to see President Biden return to our great state,” the senator said in a statement. “I know the president will have a timely, poignant, forward-looking message for the men of Morehouse.”

The controversy threatens to overshadow the policy priorities that Biden and Democrats have highlighted for months on HBCU campuses around the country. Harris and Cabinet members have spoken on several campuses. Among other policy achievements and priorities, the White House touts increases in federal money support for HBCUs; Biden's efforts to forgive up to $10,000 in student loan burden per borrower and increase Pell Grants for low-income students; energy investments to combat the climate crisis, and Democrats' support for abortion rights and decriminalizing marijuana possession.

Warnock, in his reaction to Biden's invitation, played up his work with the president “to address the high costs of higher education.”

Reflecting the nation's overall racial gaps in income and net worth, Black college students are disproportionately dependent on Pell Grants, which typically cover only a fraction of college costs, and student loans. According to Federal Reserve data, about 1 out of 3 Black households has student loan debt, compared to about 1 in 5 white households. The average Black borrower also is carrying about $10,000 more in debt than the average white borrower. Additionally, federal statistics show about 60% of Black undergraduates receive Pell Grants, compared to about 40% of the overall undergraduate population and a third of white students.

In 2020, Biden won Georgia by fewer than 12,000 votes over Trump out of about 5 million ballots cast. The combined enrollment at Morehouse and its adjoining schools that make up the Atlanta University Center is about 9,000 students. Biden’s margin in Wisconsin was less than 21,000 votes. The president had more comfortable margins in Michigan and Pennsylvania but cannot afford to lose Black support across the metro areas of Detroit and Philadelphia.

Among states Trump won, Biden is targeting North Carolina, which has a notable Black college student population. Trump’s margin there was about 75,000 votes.

Kim reported from Washington. Associated Press reporter Darren Sands contributed.

President Joe Biden arrives to speak at Prince William Forest Park on Earth Day, Monday, April 22, 2024, in Triangle, Va. Biden is announcing $7 billion in federal grants to provide residential solar projects serving low- and middle-income communities and expanding his American Climate Corps green jobs training program. (AP Photo/Manuel Balce Ceneta)