Dior pulls the stars in conveyor-belt menswear show in Paris

The black box construction branded "DIOR" was so big it obscured the view of the Eiffel Tower.

At 2,840 square meters (30,570 square feet), the sheer scale of menswear designer Kim Jones' pop-up venue could only mean one thing: that he was competing for show of the season on Friday at Paris Fashion Week.

A high-tech conveyor-belt catwalk allowed models to parade before a starry Dior Homme front row that included Kate Moss, Lily Allen and a tardy Robert Pattinson.

Designer Kim Jones accepts applause at the end of the Dior men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019. (AP PhotoFrancois Mori)

Here are some highlights of Friday's fall-winter shows at Paris Fashion Week.

DIOR'S CONVEYOR-BELT COUTURE

This is what a luxury supermarket might look like.

At Dior Homme, a snaking, meter-wide conveyer belt began moving to thumping music as models in dark, shimmering and couture-infused looks filed by.

A model wears a creation for the Dior men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019. (AP PhotoFrancois Mori)

In the presentational style, Jones made a welcome ironic comment on the commercial nature of ready-to-wear. But this superlative display needed no gimmicks to please.

A romantic sash was slung over a double-breasted charcoal suit at the chest and hip in a feat of accomplished styling — and one that harkened to couture draping.

A contemporary version of 19th-century spats — banding across the ankles — and arm-length leather gloves added to the show's romantic, almost swashbuckling, mood.

A model wears a creation for the Dior men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019. (AP PhotoFrancois Mori)

Jones added an edgy interpretation to the strict codes of Christian Dior, the designer who died in 1957, by translating his obsessions. Dior's love for big cats became a white tiger fur T-shirt hybrid.

The late designer's penchant for superstition became charm bracelets, and his initials a "CD" fastening on a safety pin. Dior's love of art became a sparkling print of a frowning Mona Lisa on a shirt, jacket and sweater.

The entire display maintained a brooding quality, thanks to the insistence on couture-style cashmeres, silk-satin and furs.

A model wears a creation for the Dior men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019. (AP PhotoFrancois Mori)

BERLUTI FINDS ITS FOOTING

After much creative change at the top of the LVMH house, Berluti — the one-time boot-maker — seems to have found its footing.

Belgian Kris Van Assche replaced artistic director Haider Ackermann last year and Friday's standout show towed the line perfectly between vibrant and tasteful.

A model wears a creation for the Dior men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019. (AP PhotoFrancois Mori)

Berluti, which started a clothes line in 2011, has cut a corner for itself in the menswear luxury market for its eye-popping hues.

And Van Assche didn't let the fall-winter mood dampen any of this zest for color, all the while working in his signature minimalist touches.

A shocking pink trench coat was kept tasteful thanks to the simplicity of its clean cut. It was paired with a crimson suit that gave the whole look a visual electricity.

A model wears a creation for the Dior men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019. (AP PhotoFrancois Mori)

A bright yellow oversize coat had a 19th-century weight to it that evoked a Parisian dandy.

To cap the collection, leather looks in black and dark blue provided a welcome contrast in color and sex appeal. A soft kinky hoody shimmered sensually.

JIL SANDER'S PRECISION

Models wear creations for the Dior men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019. (AP PhotoFrancois Mori)

The Milan-based fashion house Jil Sander, which was founded by a German designer, showed its menswear collection Friday in Paris.

It's the kind of frontier-defying cross-pollination that's healthy in European fashion to keep styles fresh and force designers to constantly challenge their own ideas.

Designer duo Lucie and Luke Meier demonstrated this in droves at their beautifully-executed minimalist show inside the grand Hotel Salomon de Rothschild.

Models wear creations for the Dior men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019. (AP PhotoFrancois Mori)

The silhouettes were geometric, layered yet lightweight. Coats were tailored. Materials were light with a subtle sheen. The color palette moved in a precise sequence from cream to gray, blue, burgundy and then black.

The program notes said the Meiers aimed for "parity between a tailoring which is sharp and precise and a softened modern wardrobe."

A narrow trench coat in rose red cut a fine style by being ever so slightly asymmetric with a square panel on one side of the chest, a sharp triangle on the other.

Models wear creations for the Dior men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019. (AP PhotoFrancois Mori)

Geometry continued via the straps of leather bags that crossed the body or in the paneled blocks of a knitted sweater.

JUUN J.'S CHECK

It was intentional mismatching and deconstruction at the award-winning South Korean designer Juun J.'s fall display that riffed on the military.

Models wear creations for the Dior men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019. (AP PhotoFrancois Mori)

Giant black-and-white checks on skirts cut on the bias and on double-breasted woolen coats were used as contrasts to silver bubble jackets or camouflage print styles.

Tartan and check insets were pieced together in visually arresting juxtapositions. This formula was employed alongside Juun J.'s signature oversize styles that were puffed up with voluminous layering.

The one major impracticality in these ready-to-wear looks were some headdress-helmets in silver, white, black and electric blue that came down to the eye and might have caused their wearers to walk into traffic.

Models wear creations for the Dior men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019. (AP PhotoFrancois Mori)

THE ART OF INVITATION

The art of the chic invite is still very much a staple of Paris fashion.

Houses compete to produce the most eye-catching, inventive, and often plain wasteful, hand-delivered show invitations.

Models wear creations for the Dior men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019. (AP PhotoFrancois Mori)

The little works of art often provide a hint as to what the collection has in store.

Louis Vuitton's Virgil Abloh had guests second-guessing the meaning of a white bejeweled glove that arrived in the post. It was, of course, a reference to Michael Jackson, to whom he paid a fashion homage.

South Korean Juun J.'s "invitation" was a gargantuan black-and-white check woolen scarf — to set the winter scene and demonstrate the designer's penchant for oversize styles and checks.

Models wear creations for the Dior men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019. (AP PhotoFrancois Mori)

Berluti won the prize for the clunkiest invite: a hefty wooden block with the label's details on top.

Thomas Adamson can be Twitter.com/ThomasAdamson_K

Models wear creations for the Dior men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019. (AP PhotoFrancois Mori)

A model wears a creation for the Dior men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019. (AP PhotoFrancois Mori)

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019.(AP PhotoMichel Euler)

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019.(AP PhotoMichel Euler)

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019.(AP PhotoMichel Euler)

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019.(AP PhotoMichel Euler)

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019.(AP PhotoMichel Euler)

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019.(AP PhotoMichel Euler)

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019.(AP PhotoMichel Euler)

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons men's FallWinter 201920 fashion collection presented in Paris, Friday Jan.18, 2019.(AP PhotoMichel Euler)

PARIS (AP) — French President Emmanuel Macron warned Thursday that Europe could “die” if it fails to build its own robust defense as Russia’s war in Ukraine rages on, or if it fails to undertake major trade and economic reforms to compete with China and the U.S.

Macron urged Europeans to become more ambitious in a fast-changing world to face the challenges of war, fierce trade competition, energy scarcity, climate change and increasing authoritarianism.

In a nearly two-hour speech at Sorbonne University in Paris, Macron said that the continent is divided and “too slow and lacks ambition” at a time when the 27-member European Union needs to become a superpower, defend its own borders and speak with one voice if it wants to survive and thrive.

“Our Europe today is mortal,” Macron said. “It can die and that depends solely on our choices,” he added. He called on people to make those choices now because, “it’s today that Europe is between war and peace.”

Russia's full-scale invasion of Ukraine, now in its third year, is an existential threat and Europe isn't armed enough to defend itself when “confronted by a power like Russia that has no inhibitions, no limits,” Macron said.

‘Our ability to ensure our security is at stake," Macron said. “Russia mustn’t be allowed to win.”

Europe now has the “good fortune” of having the Biden administration’s commitment to supporting Ukraine, Macron said. But, in a year of key elections around Europe, in the U.S. and elsewhere, support may fragment or disappear entirely, he added.

“Europe must become capable of defending its interests, with its allies by our side whenever they are willing, and alone if necessary,” Macron said.

Strong armies, a European rapid intervention program and force, tanks, a missile shield and other weapons, produced in Europe, will need the support of “a joint diplomatic force that will speak with one voice and build bridges with Africa and Latin America,” the French leader said.

“Only then will Europe show that it's not a United States’ lap dog, and that it also knows how to talk to other regions of the world,” he said.

France has been a firm supporter of Ukraine in its fight against Russian aggression, and Macron has often clashed with other Western leaders as he has insisted that Europe must stand by the country at any cost. The French president alarmed European leaders by saying recently that sending Western troops into Ukraine to shore up its defenses shouldn’t be ruled out.

Referring to trade practices of China and the U.S., Macron said “the two world powers have decided not to respect the rules of global trade” by shoring up protections and subsides while Europe’s industry remains open and is stuck in overregulation.

“Let’s do the same, we are in competition,” Macron said.

“We must buy faster, we must produce more and we must buy more that is made in Europe. That is key,” Macron said.

Thursday's speech came less than two months before a pivotal European Parliament election.

Macron, an avid advocate of a united and assertive Europe, also rallied support for his centrist Renaissance party before the June 6-9 vote as far-right parties lead the moderate coalitions in the polls. He called for safeguarding democratic values as the “authoritarian model” was becoming “more popular” across the continent.

The war in Ukraine and immigration are top priorities for European Union voters, according to polls. Far-right parties have gained support by criticizing Macron’s government policies on both issues. Macron acknowledged divisions on immigration policies, including on asylum and deportation rules for those who have arrived to Europe illegally.

He emphasized the need for an effective response and Europe-wide coordination for curbing illegal immigration, closer cooperation with immigrants' countries of origin and a unified, relentless fight against human traffickers.

Macron criticized the idea of striking an agreement, as Britain as done, with countries in Africa and elsewhere to transfer immigrants there.

“This is a betrayal of our values that ultimately leads us to dependency on other counties,” Macron said.

The British government earlier this week approved a law allowing the deportation of some migrants who enter the country illegally to Rwanda.

Macron lost his majority in France’s most influential house of parliament, the National Assembly, after the 2022 election to the far-left coalition and the far-right National Rally party.

The social situation in France remains tense as Paris prepares to host the Olympic Games this summer, amid protests from teachers and police officers, and farmer demonstrations in recent weeks. The protests follow huge rallies last year against Macron’s ultimately successful proposal to increase the retirement age from 62 to 64.

Barbara Surk reported from Nice, France. Lorne Cook contributed to this report from Brussels.

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron arrives to deliver a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron speaks during a media conference at an EU summit in Brussels, Thursday, April 18, 2024. European Union leaders on Wednesday debated a new "European Competitiveness Deal" aimed at helping the 27-nation bloc close the gap with Chinese and American rivals amid fears the region's industries will otherwise be left behind for good. (AP Photo/Omar Havana)