Fashion: Helmut Lang has that bra-shaped handbag you wanted

As New York Fashion week headed to a close, Shayne Oliver, guest designer at Helmut Lang, injected a jolt of energy into the proceedings with a raucous and sexy show that included leather bras of every kind, as in tiny leather "bralettes" and huge, brassiere-shaped handbags. The young designers at Oscar de la Renta seemed to be taking the luxury label in a more casual direction with denim and other relaxed garments. And Carolina Herrera, who showed previously at the Frick Collection, found another stunning venue for her runway show: the Museum of Modern Art.

Models walk the runway at the Helmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver fashion show during Fashion Week, Monday, Sept. 11, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

BRAS HERE, BRAS THERE, BRAS EVEYRWHERE, AT HELMUT LANG

These were not your mother's bras. In reality, they were not anyone's bras that you've ever seen — at least, not yet.

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

Visiting designer Shayne Oliver showed a raucous audience at the Helmut Lang show just how flexible the concept of a bra can be. Perhaps his most intriguing concoction: the bra bag, worn around the chest, but zippable at the top to form an actual functioning satchel. Of course it was worn outside the clothing — you could wear it underneath, but what would be the point of that?

Then there were all the teensy "bralettes" in black leather: strappy and sexy, sometimes barely covering the intended area — and sometimes, totally not trying.

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

Oliver, 29, is best known for his provocative streetwear label Hood By Air, which announced it was going on hold earlier this year and that Oliver would be focusing on his gig at Helmut Lang. He was hired by Isabella Burley, the label's "editor in residence," as one of a planned succession of guest designers creating capsule collections. (Lang himself left the label 12 years ago.) This collection was called "Helmut Lang Seen By Shayne Oliver."

"It's been crazy," Burley told reporters backstage of working with Oliver. "But I've loved every minute of it."

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

The runway show Monday night in SoHo included both women and men, and hardly seemed to differentiate by gender in terms of garments — a man could wear a corset or heels, just as a woman could. The runway was also not reserved for millennials: Kristen Owen, 46, a longtime Lang model, walked here, among other names from the past.

Lil Yachty, from left, A$AP Ferg and Diplo attend the NYFW Spring/Summer 2018 HELMUT LANG Seen By Shayne Oliver fashion show on Monday, Sept. 11, 2017, in New York. (Photo by Andy Kropa/Invision/AP)

Shayne Oliver walks on the runway at the conclusion of the Helmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver fashion show during Fashion Week, Monday, Sept. 11, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

A model walks the runway at the Helmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver fashion show during Fashion Week, Monday, Sept. 11, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

This being Lang, there was a whiff of bondage in many of the ensembles — leather straps and harnesses everywhere — but also an air of playfulness. By the time the techno soundtrack morphed into a finale of Whitney Houston's "I Have Nothing," people in the crowd were whooping with glee. (That crowd was heavy with rappers and music figures like Cardi B, Offset of the rap trio Migos, Lil Yachty, A$AP Ferg and Diplo.)

Many in attendance, of course, were too young to have been fans of Lang himself in his heyday (the Austrian-born designer, now 61, is an artist living on Long Island). But Oliver said backstage that Lang's influence on fashion remains strong.

"He taught people how to be sensual, in the right way," he said.

Lil Yachty attends the NYFW Spring/Summer 2018 HELMUT LANG Seen By Shayne Oliver fashion show. (Photo by Andy Kropa/Invision/AP)

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

—Jocelyn Noveck

DENIM AT OSCAR DE LA RENTA?

There was a whiff of change at Oscar de la Renta, where new designers Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim presented a whimsical collection featuring casual garments like midriff-baring denim jackets and roomy windbreakers.

CORRECTS SPELLING OF DESIGNER- A model walks the runway at the Oscar de la Renta Spring/Summer 2018 fashion show during Fashion Week, Monday, Sept. 11, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

It also was what you would call a signature collection — literally. Many of the garments bore the signature, in various forms, of the label's late, legendary founder, de la Renta — either in script, or even in large, sparkly letters spelling out his name.

"We're celebrating him unabashedly," Garcia said backstage.

The designers noted that the only time until now that de la Renta's signature appeared on his clothes was on a gown that Sarah Jessica Parker wore to the Met Gala in 2014. It had been the actress' idea to embroider his signature on the back.

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

Garcia added that he and Kim had updated the image of de la Renta's signature after looking around and finding that "the signatures he actually left behind were much more legible, and true to his handwriting."

The designers, presenting only their second Fashion Week collection for the label after taking over following the sudden departure of Peter Copping, began their runway show with a series of looks with a paint splatter motif. The theme even extended to the stiletto shoes: the heels looked like the stems of paint brushes.

New techniques used by the label this year included laser-cut leather, Garcia said, along with the denim, part of an effort to expand the clientele and the appeal of the brand.

EDS NOTE: NUDITY - A model walks the runway at the Oscar de la Renta Spring/Summer 2018 fashion show during Fashion Week, Monday, Sept. 11, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

(AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

But there was something for the traditionalists, too: Toward the end of the show came the red carpet-ready gowns that define the brand's image, like strapless gowns in tulle with full skirts and even a ruby-dyed mink coat.

Guests at Monday's show, held at Sotheby's auction house, included Paris Hilton, Nicky Hilton Rothschild and Nicki Minaj. They were all getting a double dose of Garcia and Kim, having attended their show on Friday for the duo's fledgling label, Monse.

Paris Hilton, left, and her sister Nicky Hilton Rothschild await the start of the Oscar de la Renta Spring/Summer 2018 fashion show during Fashion Week, Monday, Sept. 11, 2017. (AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

Nicki Minaj poses for a photograph before the Oscar del la Renta Spring/Summer 2018 fashion show. (AP Photo/Kathy Willens)

— Jocelyn Noveck

ART IN MOVEMENT, AT CAROLINA HERRERA

Carolina Herrera believes that fashion is "art in movement," and so naturally one of her favorite places to show her clothes is in a museum. In the past, she's taken her show to the stunning courtyard at the Frick Collection, and for this Fashion Week, she secured the sculpture garden at the Museum of Modern Art.

Fashion designer Carolina Herrera acknowledges applause after her fashion show as part of NYFW Spring/Summer 2018 on Monday, Sept. 11, 2017.(AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

"I've been trying to do it for many years, and at last I could and I am so honored to be here," the designer said before Monday evening's show.

Fashion from Carolina Herrera collection is modeled during Fashion Week, Monday, Sept. 11, 2017, in New York. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

(AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

The outdoor courtyard with its bubbling fountains served as the backdrop for Herrera's chic garden party and '80s-inspired collection.

"Being in the garden at the MoMA is one of those moments where, 'Is this really happening? Is this real life?' It's so beautiful!" said Disney actress Peyton List, who sat in the front row alongside model Lily Aldridge, actress Michelle Monaghan and former "Teen Wolf" star Crystal Reed.

(AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

(AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

"I think this is the first time I've actually seen this garden at night, so I'm quite mesmerized by it," Monaghan said.

There was gingham, and lots of puffed sleeves, big shoulders, colorful polka-dots and waists cinched with oversized bows. Sequins reigned supreme.

"This collection is all about color," Herrera said. "Color is very powerful and makes you think in a different way. Color makes you see things in different eyes."

(AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

(AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)

Herrera's signature white blouse also made a runway appearance, this time with a deep V-neck, dramatic sleeves and a gingham wrap skirt.

But the designer eschewed her usual crisp white button-down in favor of a black ensemble.

— Nicole Evatt

The Golden Globes bill themselves as Hollywood’s booziest bash. This year, is anyone ready to party?

Political tension and industrywide uncertainty are the prevailing moods heading into Sunday night's 83rd Golden Globes. Hollywood is coming off a disappointing box-office year and now anxiously awaits the fate of one of its most storied studios, Warner Bros.

A celebratory mood might be even more elusive given that the wide majority of the performers and filmmakers congregating at the Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills, California, oppose the policies of President Donald Trump. Likely to be on the minds of many attendees: the recent U.S. involvement in Venezuela and the fatal shooting of 37-year-old mother Renee Good in Minneapolis by Immigration and Customs Enforcement.

But through their ups and downs, the Globes have always tried to put pomp over politics. Host Nikki Glaser has vowed as much.

“You’d be surprised that half the room had no clue why I was saying ‘Venezuela,’” Glaser told The Associated Press earlier in the week, referring to her comedy-club warm-ups. “People aren’t getting the news like we all are.”

Glaser, a comic known for her roast appearances, has promised to go after A-listers in her second time hosting.

“We’re going to hit Leo,” Glaser said. “The icebergs are coming.”

Here’s what to look for at this year’s Globes:

The Golden Globes kick off at 8 p.m. EST on CBS while streaming live for Paramount+ premium subscribers. E!’s red carpet coverage begins at 6 p.m. EST.

The Associated Press will be have a livestream show beginning at 4:30 p.m. Eastern with a mix of stars' arrivals, fashion shots and celebrity interviews. It will be available on YouTube and APNews.

The overwhelming Oscar favorite “One Battle After Another” comes in with a leading nine nominations. It’s competing in the Globes’ musical or comedy category, which means the drama side might be more competitive. There, Ryan Coogler’s “Sinners,” Chloé Zhao’s “Hamnet” and Joachim Trier’s “Sentimental Value” are all in the mix.

But thus far, “One Battle After Another” has cleaned up just about everywhere. Much of Paul Thomas Anderson’s cast is nominated, including DiCaprio, Teyana Taylor, Sean Penn, Chase Infiniti and Benicio Del Toro.

If it and “Sinners” take home the two biggest prizes, it will be a banner night for Warner Bros. even as its future hangs in the balance. The studio has agreed to be acquired by Netflix is a deal worth $82.7 billion. Movie theaters have warned such a result would be “a direct and irreversible negative impact on movie theaters around the world.”

The merger awaits regulatory approval, while Paramount Skydance is still trying to convince Warner shareholders to accept its rival offer.

After an audacious promotional tour for “Marty Supreme,” Timothée Chalamet is poised to win his first Globe in five nominations. In best actor, comedy or musical, he’ll have to beat DiCaprio, a three-time Globe winner, and Ethan Hawke (“Blue Moon”).

In best actress, comedy or musical, Rose Byrne is the favorite for her performance in the not especially funny A24 indie “If I Had Legs I’d Kick You.” One prominent nominee in the category, Cynthia Erivo (“Wicked: For Good”), won’t be attending due to her schedule in the West End production “Dracula.”

Jessie Buckley (“Hamnet”) is the clear front-runner in best actress, drama. In the star-studded best actor, drama, category, the Brazilian actor Wagner Moura (“The Secret Agent”) may win over Michael B. Jordan (“Sinners”) and Joel Edgerton (“Train Dreams”).

In the supporting categories, Teyana Taylor and Stellan Skarsgård come in the favorites.

The Globes, formerly presented by the Hollywood Foreign Press Association, have no overlap or direct correlation with the Academy Awards. After being sold in 2023 to Todd Boehly’s Eldridge Industries and Dick Clark Productions, a part of Penske Media, the Globes are voted on by around 400 people. The Oscars are voted on by more than 10,500 professionals.

But in the fluctuating undulations of awards season, a good speech at the Globes can really boost an Oscar campaign. Last year, that seemed to be the case for Demi Moore, who won for “The Substance” and gave the night's most emotional speech. Mikey Madison (“Anora”), however, scored the upset win at the Oscars.

A few potentially good moments this year went instead in a Golden Eve ceremony earlier this week. There, the Cecil B. DeMille and Carol Burnett honorees, Helen Mirren and Sarah Jessica Parker, accepted their awards.

One to watch, if he wins, will be the Iranian director Jafar Panahi. His revenge drama “It Was Just an Accident” is up for four awards. Panahi has spent most of his career making films clandestinely, without approval of authorities, and was until recently banned from leaving the country. Last month, he was sentenced to a year in prison, which would be only his latest stint behind bars if Panahi returns home to serve it. This week, protests over Iran’s ailing economy have spread throughout the country in a new test to Iran's leaders.

For the first time, the Globes are trotting out a new podcast category. The nominees are: “Armchair Expert,” “Call Her Daddy,” “Good Hang With Amy Poehler,” “The Mel Robbins Podcast,” “SmartLess” and “Up First.”

In TV, HBO Max’s “The White Lotus” — another potential big winner for Warner Bros. — leads with six nominations. Netflix’s “Adolescence” comes in with five nods.

But the most closely watched nominee might be “The Studio.” The first season of Seth Rogen’s Hollywood satire memorably included an episode devoted to drama around a night at the Globes. (Sample line: “I remember when the red carpet of the Golden Globes actually stood for something.”) “The Studio” is up for three awards, giving three chances for life to imitate art.

For more coverage of this year’s Golden Globe Awards, visit: https://apnews.com/hub/golden-globe-awards

Amy Poehler, left, and Joel Lovell arrive at the 83rd Golden Globes on Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, at the Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills, Calif. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

Owen Cooper arrives at the 83rd Golden Globes on Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, at the Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills, Calif. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

Teyana Taylor arrives at the 83rd Golden Globes on Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, at the Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills, Calif. (Photo by Richard Shotwell/Invision/AP)

Teyana Taylor arrives at the 83rd Golden Globes on Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, at the Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills, Calif. (Photo by Richard Shotwell/Invision/AP)

Stellan Skarsgård, left, and Megan Everett-Skarsgard arrive at the 83rd Golden Globes on Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, at the Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills, Calif. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

Colman Domingo arrives at the 83rd Golden Globes on Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, at the Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills, Calif. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

Selena Gomez arrives at the 83rd Golden Globes on Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, at the Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills, Calif. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

Nikki Glaser arrives at the 83rd Golden Globes on Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, at the Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills, Calif. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

Maura Higgins, from ledt, Gayle King, and Mona Kosar Abdi arrive at the 83rd Golden Globes on Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, at the Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills, Calif. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

Derek Hough arrives at the 83rd Golden Globes on Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, at the Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills, Calif. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

Tessa Thompson arrives at the Golden Globes Golden Eve on Tuesday, Jan. 6, 2026, at The Beverly Hilton Hotel, in Beverly Hills, Calif. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

Nikki Glaser rolls out the red carpet during the 83rd Golden Globes press preview on Thursday, Jan. 8, 2026, at the Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills, Calif. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)