Victorian button-up meets raw punk at Paris Fashion Week

ENT

Victorian button-up meets raw punk at Paris Fashion Week

2018-03-05 14:45 Last Updated At：03-06 10:11

The buttoned-up styles of the Victorian era have met their nemesis in the unbridled sexuality of British punk in contrasting shows at Paris Fashion Week.

Here are some of the fall-winter highlights from the shows Saturday, which included Vivienne Westwood, Elie Saab, and Hermes:

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A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The buttoned-up styles of the Victorian era have met their nemesis in the unbridled sexuality of British punk in contrasting shows at Paris Fashion Week.

Here are some of the fall-winter highlights from the shows Saturday, which included Vivienne Westwood, Elie Saab, and Hermes:

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Big red-white-and-blue carpets — in the colors of the Union Jack — led guests' eyes up to the show's decor of dismembered, upside-down mannequin legs. Three scantily-clad Goth ravers climbed up onto podiums around the runway as the show began and started to gyrate provocatively.

Lebanese designer Elie Saab acknowledges applause after the presentation of his ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Models wear creations for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The clothes channeled the punk styles that made Westwood's name in the '70s — but it was also a celebration of violent color and couture.

A diaphanous marbled pastel froufrou gown looked initially like a watercolor painting — until, on further inspection, the belt that consisted of adult toys came into focus.

The model's thick eyebrows evoked famed Italian porn star-turned-politician, La Cicciolina. She also had barbed wire covering her lips and wore kinky red lace-up boots.

The collection stayed true to Westwood's encyclopedia style by including Arab-style headdresses that were given an urban reworking, as well as styles inspired by the 18th century.

The best look? A giant flame red baroque tulle hat with a period fastening under the chin.

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The 65-year-old Austrian designer had handwritten the missive on blue Eurostar notepaper on Feb. 28 while traveling between London and Paris on the cross-Channel train.

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

"Dear Vivienne. Heart. God how long have we known each other?" it began, before listing all the fashion influences Westwood had exerted on him over the years.

Models wear creations for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

"When in doubt: dress up! ... These mantras of yours and so much more became part of my life and work. I still thank you to this day," it read.

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

Kronthaler first met Westwood in 1988 and they wed in 1993. He had for a long time taken the role as a silent creative partner but took over officially as a designer in recent years.

Kronthaler ended it: "Love you forever. Andreas."

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The house produced a predominantly black collection of high necklines, statement bell and Juliette sleeves, defined shoulders and lots and lots and lots of ruffles.

There was a delicacy to some of the fabrics and detailing such as in large velvet bows draped from collars inspired by the 19th-century paintings of France's Auguste Renoir.

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Saab fused that covered-up era's styles with an exploration of all things floral — and served it on his bread-and-butter design choice, cinched-waisted gowns.

The collection, entitled "Winter Bouquets," had blooms as prints, embroideries, and appliques in white, blush, powder blue and burgundy.

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Starting in black, slim silhouettes in graphic styles gradually changed color and moved into powerful hues of midnight blue, vermilion, tan brown, mustard yellow and lime green.

With subtlety, the '80s was referenced in soft belted leather coats, shimmering leather pants and knee-high boots in contrasting colors.

Detailing such as embroideries across a shoulder had a Latin American feel and demonstrated the famed craftsmanship of Hermes, a fashion house that in France has become a byword for luxury.

Models wear creations for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Vanhee-Cybulski's penchant for checks produced a beautiful square brown dress.

Oversize double-breasted suit jackets towered above floral leggings in an intentional effect that made the legs look like sticks. It was given greater resonance with large block-like sneakers and preppy socks.

More Images

The buttoned-up styles of the Victorian era have met their nemesis in the unbridled sexuality of British punk in contrasting shows at Paris Fashion Week.

Here are some of the fall-winter highlights from the shows Saturday, which included Vivienne Westwood, Elie Saab, and Hermes:

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Big red-white-and-blue carpets — in the colors of the Union Jack — led guests' eyes up to the show's decor of dismembered, upside-down mannequin legs. Three scantily-clad Goth ravers climbed up onto podiums around the runway as the show began and started to gyrate provocatively.

Lebanese designer Elie Saab acknowledges applause after the presentation of his ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The clothes channeled the punk styles that made Westwood's name in the '70s — but it was also a celebration of violent color and couture.

A diaphanous marbled pastel froufrou gown looked initially like a watercolor painting — until, on further inspection, the belt that consisted of adult toys came into focus.

The model's thick eyebrows evoked famed Italian porn star-turned-politician, La Cicciolina. She also had barbed wire covering her lips and wore kinky red lace-up boots.

The collection stayed true to Westwood's encyclopedia style by including Arab-style headdresses that were given an urban reworking, as well as styles inspired by the 18th century.

The best look? A giant flame red baroque tulle hat with a period fastening under the chin.

___

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The 65-year-old Austrian designer had handwritten the missive on blue Eurostar notepaper on Feb. 28 while traveling between London and Paris on the cross-Channel train.

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

"Dear Vivienne. Heart. God how long have we known each other?" it began, before listing all the fashion influences Westwood had exerted on him over the years.

Models wear creations for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

"When in doubt: dress up! ... These mantras of yours and so much more became part of my life and work. I still thank you to this day," it read.

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

Kronthaler first met Westwood in 1988 and they wed in 1993. He had for a long time taken the role as a silent creative partner but took over officially as a designer in recent years.

Kronthaler ended it: "Love you forever. Andreas."

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The house produced a predominantly black collection of high necklines, statement bell and Juliette sleeves, defined shoulders and lots and lots and lots of ruffles.

There was a delicacy to some of the fabrics and detailing such as in large velvet bows draped from collars inspired by the 19th-century paintings of France's Auguste Renoir.

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Saab fused that covered-up era's styles with an exploration of all things floral — and served it on his bread-and-butter design choice, cinched-waisted gowns.

The collection, entitled "Winter Bouquets," had blooms as prints, embroideries, and appliques in white, blush, powder blue and burgundy.

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

___

Starting in black, slim silhouettes in graphic styles gradually changed color and moved into powerful hues of midnight blue, vermilion, tan brown, mustard yellow and lime green.

With subtlety, the '80s was referenced in soft belted leather coats, shimmering leather pants and knee-high boots in contrasting colors.

Detailing such as embroideries across a shoulder had a Latin American feel and demonstrated the famed craftsmanship of Hermes, a fashion house that in France has become a byword for luxury.

Vanhee-Cybulski's penchant for checks produced a beautiful square brown dress.

___

Oversize double-breasted suit jackets towered above floral leggings in an intentional effect that made the legs look like sticks. It was given greater resonance with large block-like sneakers and preppy socks.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD GETS SAUCY

The raw sexuality of British punk was on full display at Austrian designer Andreas Kronthaler's show for Vivienne Westwood.

Big red-white-and-blue carpets — in the colors of the Union Jack — led guests' eyes up to the show's decor of dismembered, upside-down mannequin legs. Three scantily-clad Goth ravers climbed up onto podiums around the runway as the show began and started to gyrate provocatively.

The clothes channeled the punk styles that made Westwood's name in the '70s — but it was also a celebration of violent color and couture.

A diaphanous marbled pastel froufrou gown looked initially like a watercolor painting — until, on further inspection, the belt that consisted of adult toys came into focus.

The model's thick eyebrows evoked famed Italian porn star-turned-politician, La Cicciolina. She also had barbed wire covering her lips and wore kinky red lace-up boots.

The collection stayed true to Westwood's encyclopedia style by including Arab-style headdresses that were given an urban reworking, as well as styles inspired by the 18th century.

The best look? A giant flame red baroque tulle hat with a period fastening under the chin.

Actress Rose McGowan, members of South African hip-hop group Die Antwoord and rappers Ninja and Yolandi Visser applauded from the front row.

___

DEAR VIVIENNE: A LOVE LETTER TO WESTWOOD

Instead of the program notes, Andreas Kronthaler left guests a photocopy of a touching love letter he'd written to his wife and design partner Vivienne Westwood, 76.

The 65-year-old Austrian designer had handwritten the missive on blue Eurostar notepaper on Feb. 28 while traveling between London and Paris on the cross-Channel train.

"Dear Vivienne. Heart. God how long have we known each other?" it began, before listing all the fashion influences Westwood had exerted on him over the years.

"When in doubt: dress up! ... These mantras of yours and so much more became part of my life and work. I still thank you to this day," it read.

Kronthaler first met Westwood in 1988 and they wed in 1993. He had for a long time taken the role as a silent creative partner but took over officially as a designer in recent years.

Kronthaler ended it: "Love you forever. Andreas."

___

ELIE SAAB'S VICTORIAN FASHION

Elie Saab went to the "dark romance" of the Victorian era for inspiration for his brooding fall-winter offerings.

The house produced a predominantly black collection of high necklines, statement bell and Juliette sleeves, defined shoulders and lots and lots and lots of ruffles.

There was a delicacy to some of the fabrics and detailing such as in large velvet bows draped from collars inspired by the 19th-century paintings of France's Auguste Renoir.

Saab fused that covered-up era's styles with an exploration of all things floral — and served it on his bread-and-butter design choice, cinched-waisted gowns.

The collection, entitled "Winter Bouquets," had blooms as prints, embroideries, and appliques in white, blush, powder blue and burgundy.

___

HERMES SHOWS OFF ITS COLORS

With an exotic set and a glowing red runway, Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski emanated quiet power in a collection that showed off her skills as a colorist and signaled that the Hermes designer is growing in confidence.

Starting in black, slim silhouettes in graphic styles gradually changed color and moved into powerful hues of midnight blue, vermilion, tan brown, mustard yellow and lime green.

With subtlety, the '80s was referenced in soft belted leather coats, shimmering leather pants and knee-high boots in contrasting colors.

Detailing such as embroideries across a shoulder had a Latin American feel and demonstrated the famed craftsmanship of Hermes, a fashion house that in France has become a byword for luxury.

Vanhee-Cybulski's penchant for checks produced a beautiful square brown dress.

But the real finesse was to be found in the collection's color combinations, such as when a belted jumpsuit in maroon was set off stylishly by a soft vermillion coat.

___

JUNYA WATANABE GOES TOP HEAVY

In a collection that took its vibe from the street, Junya Watanabe's edgy collection went stylishly off-kilter.

Oversize double-breasted suit jackets towered above floral leggings in an intentional effect that made the legs look like sticks. It was given greater resonance with large block-like sneakers and preppy socks.

Elements of deconstruction — such as billowing sleeves that looked like pieces of fabric snipped away, or trench coats partially hidden in fur — demonstrated the skill that showed why the Japanese fashion designer was originally the protégé of Comme des Garcons designer Rei Kawakubo.

Bright reds and blues were then injected into the color palette — such as in one statement trapeze-shaped raincoat and in one mushroom-shaped bubble jacket — giving the 41-piece show an on-trend '80s vibe.

Haiti's transitional council names a new prime minister in the hopes of quelling stifling violence

2024-05-01 11:56 Last Updated At：12:00

PORT-AU-PRINCE, Haiti (AP) — Haiti’s newly installed transitional council chose a little known former sports minister as the Caribbean country’s prime minister Tuesday as part of its monumental task of trying to establish a stable new government amid stifling violence.

Fritz Bélizaire was chosen in a surprise move to replace current interim Prime Minister Michel Patrick Boisvert, gaining the support of four of the seven voting members on the nine-member panel but with other panel members saying they were unfamiliar with Bélizaire.

The council also planned to choose a Cabinet as it seeks to quell gang violence that is choking the capital, Port-au-Prince, and beyond. Heavy gunfire was reported in several of the capital's neighborhoods during the council's meeting.

More than 90,000 people have fled the capital in the span of one month, and overall, more than 360,000 people have been left homeless in recent years as gunmen raze communities in rival territories.

Earlier on Tuesday, the council chose former presidential candidate Edgard Leblanc Fils as the president of the panel.

“This is a very good choice for prime minister,” Fils said of Bélizaire during a brief speech to nearly two dozen attendees. “The important thing for us is this will, this determination to go beyond divisions, to overcome conflicts and to reach a consensus.”

He said the council met Monday with army and police officials to talk about Haiti’s security crisis and how best to resolve it. “We are publicly recognizing the suffering,” he said of the population.

The announcement of Bélizaire was unexpected. A murmur rose through the attendees as officials announced that four council members with voting powers had selected Bélizaire as prime minister.

Leslie Voltaire, one of the voting council members, told The Associated Press, “I don’t know him,” when asked whether he supported Bélizaire.

Bélizaire served as Haiti's sports minister during the second presidency of René Préval from 2006 to 2011.

“He’s kind of an unknown figure," said Robert Fatton, a Haitian politics expert at the University of Virginia. “He doesn’t seem to have his own constituency. Maybe that made him the likely prime minister so different parties can accept him as prime minister.”

Council member Louis Gérald Gilles, who supported Bélizaire, told The Associated Press that the council wanted to act quickly in choosing a prime minister. “The Haitian population can no longer wait,” he said. “The security issue is essential for societal calm.”

Hours later, many ordinary Haitians remained in the dark.

“They chose a new prime minister?” Jean-Paul Eliason said as he shuffled through the streets of Port-au-Prince ringing a bell to advertise his shoe-shining business.

When told of Bélizaire, 70-year-old Eliason said his name sounded familiar.

“It’s good news because maybe the country can embark on the right path,” he said. “Security, that’s priority. People are fleeing and gangs are burning their homes.”

Sony Duvert, who leaned against his motorcycle parked near a makeshift barrier aimed at protecting his neighborhood from gangs, said he had never heard of the new prime minister and that he hoped he would make Haiti safer.

“Every day, we post here like soldiers,” he said. “I would love to see a big change for Haiti.”

After the brief announcement, which was made nearly two hours after the event was supposed to start, the council went behind closed doors again to talk about their choices for Cabinet. Voltaire, however, said he didn’t expect the council to announce Cabinet selections on Tuesday.

The majority supporting Bélizaire included Fils, the council’s new president, Smith Augustin, Gilles and Emmanuel Vertilaire.

Fatton called them an “unlikely” alliance: “We'll see if it can last."

Fils represents the January 30 political group, which is made up of parties including PHTK, whose members include former President Michel Martelly and slain President Jovenel Moïse. Meanwhile, Augustin represents the EDE/RED political party, founded by former Prime Minister Claude Joseph.

Gilles represents the Dec. 21 agreement, which is associated with former Prime Minister Ariel Henry, who resigned weeks after the gang attacks began. Meanwhile, Vertilaire is linked to the Pitit Desalin party, which is led by powerful politician Jean-Charles Moïse, who celebrated Tuesday's announcement.

“He is someone very important in the country,” Moïse said of Bélizaire. “He knows the state pretty well — he knows how to govern.”

The transitional council will act as the country’s presidency until it can arrange a presidential election some time before it disbands, which must be by February 2026.

Haitians remain divided over whether they believe a transitional government can help calm a troubled country whose capital has been under siege since gangs launched coordinated attacks on Feb. 29.

Gang members have burned police stations, opened fire on the main international airport that remains closed since early March and broke into Haiti’s two biggest prisons, releasing more than 4,000 inmates. The country’s biggest seaport also remains largely paralyzed by gang violence.

But one thing is certain: Haitians want security.

"Haitians are very impatient now. They want to see results,” Fatton said.

The council is expected to support the U.N.-backed deployment of a Kenyan police force to help fight gangs, although it’s unclear when that might happen.

Henry, the former prime minister, was on an official trip to the East African country when the coordinated gang attacks began, and he remains locked out of Haiti. He submitted his resignation last week.

Victorian button-up meets raw punk at Paris Fashion Week

Victorian button-up meets raw punk at Paris Fashion Week

The buttoned-up styles of the Victorian era have met their nemesis in the unbridled sexuality of British punk in contrasting shows at Paris Fashion Week.

Here are some of the fall-winter highlights from the shows Saturday, which included Vivienne Westwood, Elie Saab, and Hermes:

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Big red-white-and-blue carpets — in the colors of the Union Jack — led guests' eyes up to the show's decor of dismembered, upside-down mannequin legs. Three scantily-clad Goth ravers climbed up onto podiums around the runway as the show began and started to gyrate provocatively.

Lebanese designer Elie Saab acknowledges applause after the presentation of his ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The clothes channeled the punk styles that made Westwood's name in the '70s — but it was also a celebration of violent color and couture.

A diaphanous marbled pastel froufrou gown looked initially like a watercolor painting — until, on further inspection, the belt that consisted of adult toys came into focus.

The model's thick eyebrows evoked famed Italian porn star-turned-politician, La Cicciolina. She also had barbed wire covering her lips and wore kinky red lace-up boots.

The collection stayed true to Westwood's encyclopedia style by including Arab-style headdresses that were given an urban reworking, as well as styles inspired by the 18th century.

The best look? A giant flame red baroque tulle hat with a period fastening under the chin.

___

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The 65-year-old Austrian designer had handwritten the missive on blue Eurostar notepaper on Feb. 28 while traveling between London and Paris on the cross-Channel train.

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

"Dear Vivienne. Heart. God how long have we known each other?" it began, before listing all the fashion influences Westwood had exerted on him over the years.

Models wear creations for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

"When in doubt: dress up! ... These mantras of yours and so much more became part of my life and work. I still thank you to this day," it read.

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

Kronthaler first met Westwood in 1988 and they wed in 1993. He had for a long time taken the role as a silent creative partner but took over officially as a designer in recent years.

Kronthaler ended it: "Love you forever. Andreas."

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The house produced a predominantly black collection of high necklines, statement bell and Juliette sleeves, defined shoulders and lots and lots and lots of ruffles.

There was a delicacy to some of the fabrics and detailing such as in large velvet bows draped from collars inspired by the 19th-century paintings of France's Auguste Renoir.

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Saab fused that covered-up era's styles with an exploration of all things floral — and served it on his bread-and-butter design choice, cinched-waisted gowns.

The collection, entitled "Winter Bouquets," had blooms as prints, embroideries, and appliques in white, blush, powder blue and burgundy.

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

___

Starting in black, slim silhouettes in graphic styles gradually changed color and moved into powerful hues of midnight blue, vermilion, tan brown, mustard yellow and lime green.

With subtlety, the '80s was referenced in soft belted leather coats, shimmering leather pants and knee-high boots in contrasting colors.

Detailing such as embroideries across a shoulder had a Latin American feel and demonstrated the famed craftsmanship of Hermes, a fashion house that in France has become a byword for luxury.

Vanhee-Cybulski's penchant for checks produced a beautiful square brown dress.

___

Oversize double-breasted suit jackets towered above floral leggings in an intentional effect that made the legs look like sticks. It was given greater resonance with large block-like sneakers and preppy socks.

The buttoned-up styles of the Victorian era have met their nemesis in the unbridled sexuality of British punk in contrasting shows at Paris Fashion Week.

Here are some of the fall-winter highlights from the shows Saturday, which included Vivienne Westwood, Elie Saab, and Hermes:

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Big red-white-and-blue carpets — in the colors of the Union Jack — led guests' eyes up to the show's decor of dismembered, upside-down mannequin legs. Three scantily-clad Goth ravers climbed up onto podiums around the runway as the show began and started to gyrate provocatively.

Lebanese designer Elie Saab acknowledges applause after the presentation of his ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The clothes channeled the punk styles that made Westwood's name in the '70s — but it was also a celebration of violent color and couture.

A diaphanous marbled pastel froufrou gown looked initially like a watercolor painting — until, on further inspection, the belt that consisted of adult toys came into focus.

The model's thick eyebrows evoked famed Italian porn star-turned-politician, La Cicciolina. She also had barbed wire covering her lips and wore kinky red lace-up boots.

The collection stayed true to Westwood's encyclopedia style by including Arab-style headdresses that were given an urban reworking, as well as styles inspired by the 18th century.

The best look? A giant flame red baroque tulle hat with a period fastening under the chin.

___

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The 65-year-old Austrian designer had handwritten the missive on blue Eurostar notepaper on Feb. 28 while traveling between London and Paris on the cross-Channel train.

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

A model wears a creation for Elie Saab's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion week runway show in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

"Dear Vivienne. Heart. God how long have we known each other?" it began, before listing all the fashion influences Westwood had exerted on him over the years.

Models wear creations for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

"When in doubt: dress up! ... These mantras of yours and so much more became part of my life and work. I still thank you to this day," it read.

A model wears a creation for the Comme des Garcons ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Thibault Camus)

Kronthaler first met Westwood in 1988 and they wed in 1993. He had for a long time taken the role as a silent creative partner but took over officially as a designer in recent years.

Kronthaler ended it: "Love you forever. Andreas."

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

The house produced a predominantly black collection of high necklines, statement bell and Juliette sleeves, defined shoulders and lots and lots and lots of ruffles.

There was a delicacy to some of the fabrics and detailing such as in large velvet bows draped from collars inspired by the 19th-century paintings of France's Auguste Renoir.

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

Saab fused that covered-up era's styles with an exploration of all things floral — and served it on his bread-and-butter design choice, cinched-waisted gowns.

The collection, entitled "Winter Bouquets," had blooms as prints, embroideries, and appliques in white, blush, powder blue and burgundy.

A model wears a creation for Hermes's ready-to-wear fall/winter 2018/2019 fashion collection presented in Paris, Saturday, March 3, 2018. (AP Photo/Kamil Zihnioglu)

___

Starting in black, slim silhouettes in graphic styles gradually changed color and moved into powerful hues of midnight blue, vermilion, tan brown, mustard yellow and lime green.

With subtlety, the '80s was referenced in soft belted leather coats, shimmering leather pants and knee-high boots in contrasting colors.

Detailing such as embroideries across a shoulder had a Latin American feel and demonstrated the famed craftsmanship of Hermes, a fashion house that in France has become a byword for luxury.

Vanhee-Cybulski's penchant for checks produced a beautiful square brown dress.

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Oversize double-breasted suit jackets towered above floral leggings in an intentional effect that made the legs look like sticks. It was given greater resonance with large block-like sneakers and preppy socks.

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