Fendi, Armani close Milan Fashion Week in fresh venues

Milan mainstays Fendi and Armani close out four days of menswear previews on Monday, capping a lighter-than-usual program with some of the Italian fashion world's top labels altering their show rhythms.

Both houses chose special venues, away from their usual showroom locations. Fendi invited fashionistas to a garden picnic, setting up wicker chairs along a gravel park pathway and even providing straw picnic baskets with a brioche, Fendi-branded baby bananas and a ceramic cup filled with coffee, green tea, juice or water by roving waiters.

Giorgio Armani was showing in his historic headquarters in the center of the city for the first time in nearly two decades, closing the menswear calendar.

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Gucci and Prada were among the fashion houses that have decided to combine their shows with co-ed collections on the women's calendar or do one-off shows in other cities.

Highlights from Monday's shows:

FENDI'S GARDEN STROLL

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Oscar-nominated film director Luca Guadagnino continued his long-time Fendi collaboration by staging its Spring/Summer 2020 collection, and the Italian director recreated the sultry, summery mood from his hit film "Call Me By Your Name."

Rather than the usual indoor runway show, models strolled along a forested path in Milan's Villa Reale to preview a collection that blended neatly into the foliage with earthy greens, beige and browns.

"It was Luca who discovered this place, a different set, which he saw with the eyes of a cinematographer, to present a collection inspired by the botanical world, by gardening, and by travelers," said creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi, who has been a producer on some of Guadagnino's films and who tapped him to do a short film for a 2005 runway show.

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Fendi said the collection was a return to simpler things, like caring for a garden. Models carried with them Fendi-clad watering cans, and bags that had elements of a gardener's tool bag.

The Guadagnino collaboration extended also onto the looks themselves, with botanic prints that he created while on the set of the 2018 film "Suspiria," appearing on flowing kaftans — which show notes say are a reference to Guadagnino's childhood in Ethiopia — as well as on light outerwear, as linings in mesh Fendi Peekaboo bags and on nylon tote bags.

Fendi, who suffered the loss of long-time womenswear designer Karl Lagerfeld in January after five decades with the Rome-based family-run fashion house, said the sense of wonder that comes with fashion is what keeps her going.

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

"It is work that allows you to keep reinventing yourself. And something that I learned from Karl is never to look back at what has already been done, what is interesting is only what you have not done. Therefore, as soon as I finish this collection, thoughts turn to the next."

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Models wear creations as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi men's Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Monday, June 17, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

BEIRUT (AP) — The European Union announced Thursday an aid package for Lebanon of 1 billion euros — about $1.06 billion — that will mostly go to boost border control to halt the flow of asylum seekers and migrants from the small, crisis-wracked country across the Mediterranean Sea to Cyprus and Italy.

The deal follows other EU aid packages for countries such as Egypt, Tunisia and Mauritania to fortify their borders. It comes against a backdrop of increasing hostility toward Syrian refugees in Lebanon and a major surge in irregular migration of Syrian refugees from Lebanon to Cyprus.

European Union Commission President Ursula von der Leyen said during a Beirut visit with Cypriot President Nikos Christodoulides that the aid distribution will start this year and last till 2027.

The bulk of the aid — 736 million euros — would go to support Syrian refugees “and other vulnerable groups” in Lebanon, while 200 million euros are meant to bolster Lebanese security services in enforcing border and migration control, according to figures provided by the Cypriot government.

An unspecified amount would go to Lebanese fishermen, to discourage them from selling their boats to smugglers.

Von der Leyen said the EU will also work on a “more structured approach to voluntary return" of Syrian refugees "in close cooperation with” the U.N. refugee agency. The bloc will continue to maintain “legal pathways” for resettlement of refugees in Europe, she said.

Lebanon's Caretaker Prime Minister Najib Mikati praised the package, saying that “Lebanon’s security is security for European countries and vice versa,” and that an escalation of the crisis ”will not be limited to Lebanon but will extend to Europe."

Lebanon, which has been in the throes of a severe financial crisis since 2019, hosts nearly 780,000 registered Syrian refugees and hundreds of thousands more who are unregistered, the world's highest refugee population per capita.

Lebanese political officials have for years urged the international community to resettle the refugees in other countries or assist their return to Syria — voluntarily or not. Lebanese security forces have stepped up deportations of Syrians over the past year.

Tensions further flared after an official with the Christian nationalist Lebanese Forces party, Pascal Suleiman, was killed last month in what military officials said was a botched carjacking by a Syrian gang. The incident prompted outbreaks of anti-Syrian violence by vigilante groups.

Meanwhile, Cypriot authorities complain the island nation has been overwhelmed by irregular migration of Syrian asylum seekers, many of them coming on boats from Lebanon.

The UNHCR in Lebanon said it had verified 59 “actual or attempted” departures by boats carrying a total of 3,191 passengers from Lebanon between January and mid-April, compared to three documented boat movements carrying 54 passengers in the same period last year. Usually, few boats attempt the much more dangerous crossing in the winter. In all of 2023, UNHCR recorded 65 boat departures carrying 3,927 passengers.

Cyprus has taken a new approach to halting the flow of migrants. Last month, it suspended processing of Syrian asylum applications, and human rights groups accused the Cypriot coast guard of forcibly turning back five boats carrying about 500 asylum seekers coming from Lebanon. Cypriot officials have denied this.

Bassel al-Shayoukh, a Syrian refugee from Idlib living in Lebanon since 2014, said his brother and several cousins and nephews were on one of the boats turned back. Now he wants to make the journey himself.

“In the beginning I thought that in a year or two the war would be over in Syria,” he said, but it dragged on, while in Lebanon “every year ... the situation began to get worse.”

Shayoukh said he fears being beaten by vigilantes or deported to Syria after Lebanese authorities declined to renew his residency permit.

His 17-year-old nephew, who declined to give his name fearing for his safety, said the Cypriot coast guard started making waves to push the boat he was on away. “I was terrified... I don’t know how to swim,” he said. “I thought we were going to die.”

The people on the boats “stayed three days without food or water” before turning back to Lebanon, the teen added.

Back in Lebanon, they were detained by the army; those registered with UNHCR were released and the others deported.

Mohammed Sablouh, a Lebanese human rights lawyer who works on refugee and migrant cases, says Lebanese authorities are deliberately “turning a blind eye" to the surge in migration to "pressure the international community.”

The Lebanese army did not respond to a request for comment on their measures to combat smuggling.

Thursday's aid announcement comes ahead of the annual fundraising conference for Syria in Brussels later this month. After 13 years of civil war, donor fatigue has set in while the world’s attention is occupied by the humanitarian fallout of more recent conflicts in Ukraine and Gaza.

The Cypriot president said Thursday was a “historic day” and called for European officials to go farther and declare some areas of Syria safe for return.

“The current situation is not sustainable for Lebanon. It is not sustainable for Cyprus, it is not sustainable for the European Union,” Christodoulides said.

But not all Lebanese officials are convinced the European aid would solve the problem.

Lebanese Forces party head Samir Geagea told The Associated Press earlier this week that European authorities are mainly concerned “that the refugees don’t go to Europe."

"For us the problem is that we cannot have our country drowning in illegal Syrian refugees,” Geagea said, urging for Syrians to be sent back to either government or opposition-held areas of the neighboring country.

But Shayoukh says he has nowhere to go.

The Damascus government wants him for opposing Syrian President Bashar Assad, he said, while the Islamist group that now controls his hometown behaves "the same way as the regime’s intelligence services” in crushing dissidents.

Associated Press writer Menelaos Hadjicostis in Nicosia, Cyprus, contributed to this report.

Follow AP’s global migration coverage at: https://apnews.com/hub/migration

Lebanese caretaker Prime Minister Najib Mikati, center, speaks during his meeting with Cyprus' President Nikos Christodoulides, left, and President of the European Commission Ursula von der Leyen at the government palace in Beirut, Lebanon, Thursday, May 2, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

Lebanese caretaker Prime Minister Najib Mikati, center, speaks during his meeting with Cyprus' President Nikos Christodoulides, left, and President of the European Commission Ursula von der Leyen at the government palace in Beirut, Lebanon, Thursday, May 2, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

Lebanese caretaker Prime Minister Najib Mikati, center, welcomes Cyprus' president Nikos Christodoulides, left, and President of the European Commission Ursula von der Leyen before their meeting at the government palace in Beirut, Lebanon, Thursday, May 2, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

Lebanese caretaker Prime Minister Najib Mikati, center, Cyprus' President Nikos Christodoulides, left, and President of the European Commission Ursula von der Leyen pose for photograph at the government palace in Beirut, Lebanon, Thursday, May 2, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

Lebanese caretaker Prime Minister Najib Mikati, right, welcomes Cyprus' president Nikos Christodoulides before their meeting at the government palace in Beirut, Lebanon, Thursday, May 2, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

Cyprus' President Nikos Christodoulides, left, and President of the European Commission Ursula von der Leyen, center, review an honor guard upon their arrival to meet with the Lebanese Speaker Nabih Berri, in Beirut, Thursday, May 2, 2024. (AP Photo/Hussein Malla)

Lebanese caretaker Prime Minister Najib Mikati, center, speaks during his meeting with Cyprus' President Nikos Christodoulides, left, and President of the European Commission Ursula von der Leyen at the government palace in Beirut, Lebanon, Thursday, May 2, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

Lebanese caretaker Prime Minister Najib Mikati, center, welcomes Cyprus' President Nikos Christodoulides, left, and President of the European Commission Ursula von der Leyen at the government palace in Beirut, Lebanon, Thursday, May 2, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)