Skip to Content Facebook Feature Image

Rock star: After 'Free Solo,' climber unsure of next journey

Sport

Rock star: After 'Free Solo,' climber unsure of next journey
Sport

Sport

Rock star: After 'Free Solo,' climber unsure of next journey

2019-06-25 14:41 Last Updated At:14:50

Rock climber Alex Honnold meticulously chalked his hands before pulling himself up to the thin ledge inside the climate-controlled climbing gym. He dangled by his finger tips for a bit and then fell back to the bouncy mat.

Nice and safe. No heart-pounding fear of a 3,000-foot drop, either.

In the aftermath of the Academy Award winning documentary "Free Solo ," Honnold is trying to get a grip on his sudden fame (he's recognized everywhere), his image (he's not really that aloof) and most of all what exactly he does next to top that spine-tingling feat .

In this June 18, 2019, photo, professional rock climber Alex Honnold works out with weights attached to his harness at the Earth Treks gym in Englewood, Colo. Honnold is trying to get a grip on life in the aftermath of the Academy Award winning documentary "Free Solo." His fear is that maybe his 2017 ropeless climb of El Capitan in Yosemite featured in the spine-tingling film just might be the summit of his career. (AP PhotoThomas Peipert)

In this June 18, 2019, photo, professional rock climber Alex Honnold works out with weights attached to his harness at the Earth Treks gym in Englewood, Colo. Honnold is trying to get a grip on life in the aftermath of the Academy Award winning documentary "Free Solo." His fear is that maybe his 2017 ropeless climb of El Capitan in Yosemite featured in the spine-tingling film just might be the summit of his career. (AP PhotoThomas Peipert)

His realization: Maybe his 2017 ropeless climb of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park that's chronicled in the film just might be the summit of his career. Maybe his cliff-hanger sequel doesn't exist.

If so, he's at peace. These days, he's content taking a less treacherous path inside climbing gyms.

"Everybody already thinks I've done the best thing I'll ever do," Honnold said in a recent interview as young climbers gawked, pointed and stared at him before a competition at Earth Treks Englewood in Colorado. "So I don't feel any obligation to top that. Even if I did top it, there would never be a better film about it. It will never be documented in a better way. It's just not possible to make a better film than that. So it's like, 'Cool — a-once-in-a-lifetime kind of thing.' It's like, 'Let's move on.'"

In this June 18, 2019, photo, professional rock climber Alex Honnold is interviewed at the Earth Treks gym in Englewood, Colo. Honnold is trying to get a grip on life in the aftermath of the Academy Award winning documentary "Free Solo." His fear is that maybe his 2017 ropeless climb of El Capitan in Yosemite featured in the spine-tingling film just might be the summit of his career. (AP PhotoThomas Peipert)

In this June 18, 2019, photo, professional rock climber Alex Honnold is interviewed at the Earth Treks gym in Englewood, Colo. Honnold is trying to get a grip on life in the aftermath of the Academy Award winning documentary "Free Solo." His fear is that maybe his 2017 ropeless climb of El Capitan in Yosemite featured in the spine-tingling film just might be the summit of his career. (AP PhotoThomas Peipert)

Move on to what? That's his hang-up.

There's no new endeavor he's eyeing. Perhaps, at 33, he's proceeding through life with a little more caution. He's dating the same person he was in the film — Sanni McCandless — and has a house in Las Vegas.

"So far, I haven't been taking the same kind of risks in climbing, but it has more to do with opportunity," Honnold said. "I've been promoting the film and not out climbing crazy mountains all the time. We'll see."

In this June 18, 2019, photo, rock climbers Alex Honnold, right, and Ashima Shiraishi are interviewed at the Earth Treks gym in Englewood, Colo. Honnold is trying to get a grip on life in the aftermath of the Academy Award winning documentary "Free Solo." His fear is that maybe his 2017 ropeless climb of El Capitan in Yosemite featured in the spine-tingling film just might be the summit of his career. (AP PhotoThomas Peipert)

In this June 18, 2019, photo, rock climbers Alex Honnold, right, and Ashima Shiraishi are interviewed at the Earth Treks gym in Englewood, Colo. Honnold is trying to get a grip on life in the aftermath of the Academy Award winning documentary "Free Solo." His fear is that maybe his 2017 ropeless climb of El Capitan in Yosemite featured in the spine-tingling film just might be the summit of his career. (AP PhotoThomas Peipert)

In the film, Honnold took an MRI of his brain to see how he responds to fear. Turns out, fear didn't seem to faze him. Still, there was one poignant scene after he halted an attempt to scale El Capitan, when producer Jimmy Chin commented, "it's reassuring that Spock has nerves" — an ode to the stoic nature of the Star Trek character.

Undeterred, Honnold remained persistent. It's just one of the takeaways from the documentary — a tunnel vision that drove him and sometimes made him come across as aloof. Especially in his blossoming relationship with McCandless.

"People come out of it thinking I'm super cold, but you've got to keep it in context. Whereas when we first started dating, the relationship was much less important to me than this climbing goal I'd been holding on to for the last nine years," Honnold explained. "Everybody comes out of the film taking what they want. They cherry-pick the lesson they want, cherry-pick the personality traits they want. Everybody chooses their own adventure."

In this June 18, 2019, photo, professional rock climber Alex Honnold sits on the padded floor at the Earth Treks gym in Englewood, Colo. Honnold is trying to get a grip on life in the aftermath of the Academy Award winning documentary "Free Solo." His fear is that maybe his 2017 ropeless climb of El Capitan in Yosemite featured in the spine-tingling film just might be the summit of his career. (AP PhotoThomas Peipert)

In this June 18, 2019, photo, professional rock climber Alex Honnold sits on the padded floor at the Earth Treks gym in Englewood, Colo. Honnold is trying to get a grip on life in the aftermath of the Academy Award winning documentary "Free Solo." His fear is that maybe his 2017 ropeless climb of El Capitan in Yosemite featured in the spine-tingling film just might be the summit of his career. (AP PhotoThomas Peipert)

Around the climbing community, Honnold remains a polarizing figure. That's due in part to his free soloing ways, which is when a climber doesn't use any ropes, harnesses or other protective equipment and is forced to rely on their own strength. He's got numerous free-soloing firsts under his belt. But nothing quite like scaling El Capitan, a feat he accomplished in just under four hours.

For the record, he doesn't have a death wish. He diligently trained for the danger-filled climb that included sections called Freeblast (precariously smooth), Monster Offwidth (shimmying his way up a vertical crack) and Boulder Problem (executing a karate-kick move to reach a toe hold).

"That's why I spent two years practicing, to make sure I wouldn't fall off and die," said Honnold, who has a foundation dedicated to supporting solar energy and serves on the board of a company that operates indoor climbing facilities (El Cap). "If I didn't care, I would've gone the first day and rolled the dice."

Ashima Shiraishi, a teenager who's become one of the big names in climbing, said she watched the documentary on a plane and felt, well, "terrified."

"Free soloing? I can't," said Shiraishi, who figures to be in the medal mix as climbing makes its debut at the Tokyo Olympics next summer. "It's a different world."

Should anyone want to follow his lead, his advice would be basic: Be careful.

"It's a very long, personal journey," Honnold said. "If someone wants to spend the time and dedicate themselves to the process, more power to them — as long as they do it slow and carefully."

To promote the film directed by Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi and Chin, Honnold traveled around for months, which meant putting his outdoor climbing pursuits on the backburner. Along the way, he met some big names — Prince William, actor Bradley Cooper — and lost some privacy. He's constantly recognized on subways, in grocery stores and of course anywhere he climbs.

He recently went back to Yosemite, but didn't dare venture out too much in public because, "I've got serious anxiety," he said.

While hiking in the area, Honnold overheard a group in front of him actually discussing the movie. Then, he sped right by them.

"They're like, 'That's the guy!'" Honnold recounted. "As I'm hiking by, they're like, 'Did you get him on the 'GoPro?'"

That's just his reality now.

So is this: Making the most of his training sessions at climbing gyms. He invents challenges for himself, like attaching heavy weights around his waist and suspending himself from a ledge by his fingers.

Any chance of another free solo ascent of El Capitan?

"If I had a reason to. If I was excited," Honnold said. "Because I know I can now."

More AP sports: https://apnews.com/apf-sports and https://twitter.com/AP_Sports

Next Article

US envoy to UN visits Nagasaki A-bomb museum, pays tribute to victims

2024-04-19 19:36 Last Updated At:19:41

TOKYO (AP) — The American envoy to the United Nations called Friday for countries armed with atomic weapons to pursue nuclear disarmament as she visited the atomic bomb museum in Nagasaki, Japan.

Linda Thomas-Greenfield, who became the first U.S. cabinet member to visit Nagasaki, stressed the importance of dialogue and diplomacy amid a growing nuclear threat in the region.

“We must continue to work together to create an environment for nuclear disarmament. We must continue to prevent the spread of nuclear weapons in every corner of the world,” she said after a tour of the atomic bomb museum.

“For those of us who already have those weapons, we must pursue arms control. We can and must work to ensure that Nagasaki is the last place to ever experience the horror of nuclear weapons,” she added, standing in front of colorful hanging origami cranes, a symbol of peace.

The United States dropped the world’s first atomic bomb on Hiroshima on Aug. 6, 1945, destroying the city and killing 140,000 people. A second attack three days later on Nagasaki killed 70,000 more people. Japan surrendered on Aug. 15, ending World War II and its nearly half-century of aggression in Asia.

Nagasaki Gov. Kengo Oishi said in a statement that he believed Thomas-Greenfield's visit and her first-person experience at the museum “will be a strong message in promoting momentum of nuclear disarmament for the international society at a time the world faces a severe environment surrounding atomic weapons.”

Oishi said he conveyed to the ambassador the increasingly important role of Nagasaki and Hiroshima in emphasizing the need of nuclear disarmament.

Thomas-Greenfield's visit to Japan comes on the heels of Prime Minister Fumio Kishida's official visit to the United States last week and is aimed at deepening Washington's trilateral ties with Tokyo and Seoul. During her visit to South Korea earlier this week, she held talks with South Korean officials, met with defectors from North Korea and visited the demilitarized zone.

The ambassador said the United States is looking into setting up a new mechanism for monitoring North Korea's nuclear weapons program. Russia and China have thwarted U.S.-led efforts to step up U.N. sanctions on North Korea over its ballistic missile testing since 2022, underscoring a deepening divide between permanent Security Council members over Russia’s war on Ukraine.

She said it would be “optimal” to launch the new system next month, though it is uncertain if that is possible.

The United States, Japan and South Korea have been deepening security ties amid growing tension in the region from North Korea and China.

U.S. Ambassador to United Nations Linda Thomas-Greenfield, left, and Japan's Prime Minister Fumio Kishida, right, shake hands during a meeting Friday, April 19, 2024, at prime minister's office in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko, Pool)

U.S. Ambassador to United Nations Linda Thomas-Greenfield, left, and Japan's Prime Minister Fumio Kishida, right, shake hands during a meeting Friday, April 19, 2024, at prime minister's office in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko, Pool)

U.S. Ambassador to United Nations Linda Thomas-Greenfield, left, and Japan's Prime Minister Fumio Kishida, right, shake hands during a meeting Friday, April 19, 2024, at prime minister's office in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko, Pool)

U.S. Ambassador to United Nations Linda Thomas-Greenfield, left, and Japan's Prime Minister Fumio Kishida, right, shake hands during a meeting Friday, April 19, 2024, at prime minister's office in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko, Pool)

U.S. Ambassador to United Nations Linda Thomas-Greenfield, right, speaks to Rahm Emanuel, U.S. Ambassador to Japan, second right, as they wait for a meeting with Japan's Prime Minister Fumio Kishida Friday, April 19, 2024, at prime minister's office in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko, Pool)

U.S. Ambassador to United Nations Linda Thomas-Greenfield, right, speaks to Rahm Emanuel, U.S. Ambassador to Japan, second right, as they wait for a meeting with Japan's Prime Minister Fumio Kishida Friday, April 19, 2024, at prime minister's office in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko, Pool)

U.S. Ambassador to United Nations Linda Thomas-Greenfield, left, and Rahm Emanuel, U.S. Ambassador to Japan, right, walk to meet Japan's Prime Minister Fumio Kishida Friday, April 19, 2024, at prime minister's office in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko, Pool)

U.S. Ambassador to United Nations Linda Thomas-Greenfield, left, and Rahm Emanuel, U.S. Ambassador to Japan, right, walk to meet Japan's Prime Minister Fumio Kishida Friday, April 19, 2024, at prime minister's office in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko, Pool)

U.S. Ambassador to United Nations Linda Thomas-Greenfield, left, and Japan's Prime Minister Fumio Kishida, right, talk prior to a meeting Friday, April 19, 2024, at prime minister's office in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko, Pool)

U.S. Ambassador to United Nations Linda Thomas-Greenfield, left, and Japan's Prime Minister Fumio Kishida, right, talk prior to a meeting Friday, April 19, 2024, at prime minister's office in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko, Pool)

U.S. Ambassador to United Nations Linda Thomas-Greenfield, left, and Japan's Prime Minister Fumio Kishida, right, prepare to talk during a meeting Friday, April 19, 2024, at prime minister's office in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko, Pool)

U.S. Ambassador to United Nations Linda Thomas-Greenfield, left, and Japan's Prime Minister Fumio Kishida, right, prepare to talk during a meeting Friday, April 19, 2024, at prime minister's office in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko, Pool)

Recommended Articles