Model became Dior muse by knocking on his door

ENT

Model became Dior muse by knocking on his door

2019-08-23 22:24 Last Updated At：22:30

Before there were supermodels, there were "mannequins" — living, breathing women who played an active role in designing haute couture by standing very, very still. Designers and artisans would pin, prod or tuck fabric and toiles to the mannequins to bring sketches and ideas to life.

In 1950, one such mannequin, the British model Jean Dawnay, went to work full-time in Paris at the fashion house of Christian Dior. This contract alone was enough to earn her newspaper coverage in Britain at the time, but she also wrote a book about her experiences. "Model Girl," published in 1956, went behind the scenes of fashion shows, couture houses and photoshoots, lifting the veil on the hard work that goes into glamour.

Now Dawnay's daughter, Katya Galitzine, is re-releasing a section of the memoir as "Working for Christian Dior" (Zuleika Books) to coincide with the "Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams" exhibition at the V&A Museum in London.

Galitzine says her mother arrived in France on the way back from a modeling job in Venice and spent a few days knocking on designers' doors, asking for work.

"She only went to the Houses whose perfumes she knew, because that was how she knew the names, and every single one of them wanted her, so she must have had something," Galitzine says. "I mean, she did have something. But she was very beautiful, she was very elegant. She adapted very well to whatever people wanted, and she had an 18-inch waist."

Although she spoke no French, Dawnay's cold calling paid off, and she accepted a contract at Dior's atelier.

"They had to clock in, like in a factory, at 9 o'clock, and then she would stand, literally stand and be pushed around and shoved around and pricked and pinned," her daughter explains.

Galitzine found one Dior dress hidden at the back of a wardrobe after her mother died in 2016.

"There was this beautiful, wool worsted tight-waisted dress that's called 'Nonette' that was original Christian Dior, numbered. If you did a test on it, it would probably have his DNA dust on it because he actually made it on my mother in 1950," she says. "And it was the dress that she wore at the original Savoy show that brought Christian Dior to London in spring 1950." The dress is part of the V&A show.

In footage of the Savoy Hotel show, Dawnay wears a white debutante dress called "Innocence," a white embroidered dress "Muguet de Mai," a silk coat called "Ravel" and a dinner dress made of straw lace.

After Dawnay left Dior, her celebrity status continued to rise.

In 1951, Vogue took the unusual step of sending her and several other models to an event in Australia, Galitzine says. "Clothes had been sent to locations, but once the clothes got there, they'd find pretty local girls, local models, to be the model. To actually pay on an aircraft for five girls and put them up in a hotel — that was enormous. So those five girls became 'supermodels.'"

Dawnay wrote her memoir in Majorca, where she socialized with Prince Rainier and Grace Kelly, who were there on their honeymoon.

"She'd spend all day writing her book and then not have to worry about food because she'd go to this fantastic yacht and have dinner," Galitzine says. In photos of her mother and Kelly from that period, she says, "they looked so similar actually. They're very much that '50s style with the scarves and their pointed glasses."

The comparisons didn't end there: Dawnay also went on to marry a prince — a Russian emigre to Britain. She became Princess George Galitzine.

In later years, she wrote another book about modeling, made regular appearances on quiz shows, advised stores on fashion, and did charity work.

In an interview with The Associated Press at a Dior 50th anniversary exhibition in 1997, Dawnay recalled the excitement of those days: "After the war, with the austerity and clothes rationing, coupons, when Dior came on the scene, it was such a sensation — these incredibly feminine, romantic, beautiful clothes with so much material."

Macron outlines his vision for Europe to become an assertive global power as war in Ukraine rages on

2024-04-26 00:49 Last Updated At：00:52

PARIS (AP) — French President Emmanuel Macron warned Thursday that Europe could “die” if it fails to build its own robust defense as Russia’s war in Ukraine rages on, or if it fails to undertake major trade and economic reforms to compete with China and the U.S.

Macron urged Europeans to become more ambitious in a fast-changing world to face the challenges of war, fierce trade competition, energy scarcity, climate change and increasing authoritarianism.

In a nearly two-hour speech at Sorbonne University in Paris, Macron said that the continent is divided and “too slow and lacks ambition” at a time when the 27-member European Union needs to become a superpower, defend its own borders and speak with one voice if it wants to survive and thrive.

“Our Europe today is mortal,” Macron said. “It can die and that depends solely on our choices,” he added. He called on people to make those choices now because, “it’s today that Europe is between war and peace.”

Russia's full-scale invasion of Ukraine, now in its third year, is an existential threat and Europe isn't armed enough to defend itself when “confronted by a power like Russia that has no inhibitions, no limits,” Macron said.

‘Our ability to ensure our security is at stake," Macron said. “Russia mustn’t be allowed to win.”

Europe now has the “good fortune” of having the Biden administration’s commitment to supporting Ukraine, Macron said. But, in a year of key elections around Europe, in the U.S. and elsewhere, support may fragment or disappear entirely, he added.

“Europe must become capable of defending its interests, with its allies by our side whenever they are willing, and alone if necessary,” Macron said.

Strong armies, a European rapid intervention program and force, tanks, a missile shield and other weapons, produced in Europe, will need the support of “a joint diplomatic force that will speak with one voice and build bridges with Africa and Latin America,” the French leader said.

“Only then will Europe show that it's not a United States’ lap dog, and that it also knows how to talk to other regions of the world,” he said.

France has been a firm supporter of Ukraine in its fight against Russian aggression, and Macron has often clashed with other Western leaders as he has insisted that Europe must stand by the country at any cost. The French president alarmed European leaders by saying recently that sending Western troops into Ukraine to shore up its defenses shouldn’t be ruled out.

Referring to trade practices of China and the U.S., Macron said “the two world powers have decided not to respect the rules of global trade” by shoring up protections and subsides while Europe’s industry remains open and is stuck in overregulation.

“Let’s do the same, we are in competition,” Macron said.

“We must buy faster, we must produce more and we must buy more that is made in Europe. That is key,” Macron said.

Thursday's speech came less than two months before a pivotal European Parliament election.

Macron, an avid advocate of a united and assertive Europe, also rallied support for his centrist Renaissance party before the June 6-9 vote as far-right parties lead the moderate coalitions in the polls. He called for safeguarding democratic values as the “authoritarian model” was becoming “more popular” across the continent.

The war in Ukraine and immigration are top priorities for European Union voters, according to polls. Far-right parties have gained support by criticizing Macron’s government policies on both issues. Macron acknowledged divisions on immigration policies, including on asylum and deportation rules for those who have arrived to Europe illegally.

He emphasized the need for an effective response and Europe-wide coordination for curbing illegal immigration, closer cooperation with immigrants' countries of origin and a unified, relentless fight against human traffickers.

Macron criticized the idea of striking an agreement, as Britain as done, with countries in Africa and elsewhere to transfer immigrants there.

“This is a betrayal of our values that ultimately leads us to dependency on other counties,” Macron said.

The British government earlier this week approved a law allowing the deportation of some migrants who enter the country illegally to Rwanda.

Macron lost his majority in France’s most influential house of parliament, the National Assembly, after the 2022 election to the far-left coalition and the far-right National Rally party.

The social situation in France remains tense as Paris prepares to host the Olympic Games this summer, amid protests from teachers and police officers, and farmer demonstrations in recent weeks. The protests follow huge rallies last year against Macron’s ultimately successful proposal to increase the retirement age from 62 to 64.

Barbara Surk reported from Nice, France. Lorne Cook contributed to this report from Brussels.

Model became Dior muse by knocking on his door

ENT

Model became Dior muse by knocking on his door

Next Article

Macron outlines his vision for Europe to become an assertive global power as war in Ukraine rages on

EU military officer says a frigate has destroyed a drone launched from Yemen’s Houthi-held areas

Poland’s prime minister celebrates after his party wins a string of cities in mayoral votes

European nations with Patriots hesitate to give their missile systems to Ukraine

Reuters photographer wins World Press Photo of the Year with poignant shot from Gaza

Defense and security are on citizens’ minds before the EU Parliament elections, a survey finds

EU leaders vow to impose tougher sanctions against Iran as Ukraine’s president pleads for support

Hungary’s leader calls for change at the top in June European elections at a far right gathering