Skip to Content Facebook Feature Image

Fendi lets sun shine on post-Lagerfeld era, glancing back

ENT

Fendi lets sun shine on post-Lagerfeld era, glancing back
ENT

ENT

Fendi lets sun shine on post-Lagerfeld era, glancing back

2019-09-19 22:32 Last Updated At:22:41

A naïve streak is running through the collections on preview during Milan Fashion Week — with a return to simpler times, yesteryear prints and patterns and unfussy silhouettes.

Checked gingham is making a comeback, while crushed velvet is making inroads into the summertime wardrobe as fashion takes comfort in nostalgia. Raffia bags and weave details also are on display.

More Images
Model Bella Hadid wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A naïve streak is running through the collections on preview during Milan Fashion Week — with a return to simpler times, yesteryear prints and patterns and unfussy silhouettes.

Models wear creations as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

THE SUN SHINING ON FENDI

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Florals and gardening references tied in neatly with the menswear Spring/Summer 2020 collection previewed last June in Milan. A series in golden honey yellow and brown gave a down-to-earth buzz to a checked fur coat, or gingham dress with short-sleeved fur in matching trim. For the queen bee, there was a fur-check intarsia coat, with sheer checked skirt and a cropped marigold knit top. The look finished with bug-eye glasses, fastened with a librarian eyeglass chain bearing the double FF logo, and large brim prairie bonnets.

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Giorgio Armani says he wanted to dress his Emporio Armani woman in air. He just about succeeds.

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Opening the show and setting the tone, an airy trench floated over a transparent pink top and gray crushed velvet trousers, anchored by an urban pill-box crossbody bag.

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

I SPY MAX MARA

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

The centerpiece look was Bermuda shorts, tailored shirts and matching monochrome ties, worn with matching sheer knee socks and pumps. The all-black version was nearly martial in its impact, while a series in pastels softened the impact considerably. Taking the feminine counterpoint were a series of silky skirts in sexy diagonal tiers worn with billed caps and knee-high boots, all in trademark monochromes of pastel.

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Bella Hadid wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Bella Hadid wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Models wear creations as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Models wear creations as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Designer Giorgio Armani accepts applause at the conclusion of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Designer Giorgio Armani accepts applause at the conclusion of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Models Joan Smalls, from front left, Gigi Hadid, Bella Hadid and Kaia Gerber wear creations with other models as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Models Joan Smalls, from front left, Gigi Hadid, Bella Hadid and Kaia Gerber wear creations with other models as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Faretta wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Faretta wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Models are photographed backstage prior to the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Models are photographed backstage prior to the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Models Candice Swanepoel, left, and Doutzen Kroes are photographed backstage prior to the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Models Candice Swanepoel, left, and Doutzen Kroes are photographed backstage prior to the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Models Candice Swanepoel, from left, Gigi Hadid and Doutzen Kroes wear creations as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Models Candice Swanepoel, from left, Gigi Hadid and Doutzen Kroes wear creations as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Kaia Gerber wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Kaia Gerber wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Kaia Gerber wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Kaia Gerber wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Gigi Hadid wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Gigi Hadid wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Highlights from Thursday previews for Spring/Summer 2020 womenswear collections:

Model Bella Hadid wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Bella Hadid wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

THE SUN SHINING ON FENDI

Fendi seemed to have an atavistic, perhaps artistic, need to return to the brand's ready-to-wear roots in the mid-1960s to confront the first collection since the loss of Karl Lagerfeld, the brand's founding womenswear designer from 1965 until his death last February.

The new collection by Silvia Venturini Fendi drew on easy 1960s mom styles, like quilted jackets and matching mini-skirts, garden floral cropped raincoat and skirt and easy-to-wear terry-cloth skirts and canvas jackets. Woven bags and matching woven sweaters had a nostalgic, almost naïve feel, countered by a plunging V-line and translucent print mini or matching macrame weave skirts.

Models wear creations as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Models wear creations as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Florals and gardening references tied in neatly with the menswear Spring/Summer 2020 collection previewed last June in Milan. A series in golden honey yellow and brown gave a down-to-earth buzz to a checked fur coat, or gingham dress with short-sleeved fur in matching trim. For the queen bee, there was a fur-check intarsia coat, with sheer checked skirt and a cropped marigold knit top. The look finished with bug-eye glasses, fastened with a librarian eyeglass chain bearing the double FF logo, and large brim prairie bonnets.

The 1969 hit "The Age of Aquarius" played throughout the show, setting an optimistic tone for Fendi's debut collection flying as the solo headliner. And she took her bows standing in front of the image of a rising orange sun to the companion melody "Let the Sunshine In."

THE LIGHTNESS OF EMPORIO ARMANI

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Giorgio Armani says he wanted to dress his Emporio Armani woman in air. He just about succeeds.

The Spring/Summer 2020 collection was a study of lightness and movement, softness in materials, silhouette and color palette.

"It is difficult to define beauty," the designer said after the show. "There are many women who can be beautiful in their own way. Once there was the beauty of the woman with the cigarette. Today women can be different, differently beautiful."

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Opening the show and setting the tone, an airy trench floated over a transparent pink top and gray crushed velvet trousers, anchored by an urban pill-box crossbody bag.

The youthful-dressing Emporio Armani woman can show some skin in a velvet bra-top and matching trousers, unified with a double-breasted pink blazer. A wide-trouser jumpsuit in denim blue had a hippie feel with a cropped crushed velvet jacket. Tulle tops danced over silky trousers, accented by a tangle of beads. By nightfall, a silvery mood descended with a metallic sheen on organza trousers and gathered zipper jackets, accented by chain-mail earrings and breast-plates recalling the 1970s disco era. Footwear included pointy flat mules, high-top sneakers and knee-high military boots.

"There's a need for air, attention to nature and, most of all not, to be swept away by the vortex of novelty that sometimes can be too intellectual, other times too basic and yet other times suffer an excess of eclecticism," Armani said. "Let's return to being more normal, thinking of the men and women who live around us."

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

I SPY MAX MARA

Max Mara pays tribute to the under-represented female spy in the latest collection, taking a cue from British feminist writer Natasha Walter who reasons "fiction needs more female spies. After all, women are trained to keep secrets."

The secret of the Max Mara Spring/Summer 2020 collection was discipline. The looks had a military appeal, balanced with silky flowing femininity.

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

The centerpiece look was Bermuda shorts, tailored shirts and matching monochrome ties, worn with matching sheer knee socks and pumps. The all-black version was nearly martial in its impact, while a series in pastels softened the impact considerably. Taking the feminine counterpoint were a series of silky skirts in sexy diagonal tiers worn with billed caps and knee-high boots, all in trademark monochromes of pastel.

Mixing it up with some prints, the collection also paired masculine Prince of Wales jackets with feminine paisley dresses, and a silky polka-dot series had a tromp-l'oeil catch-me-if-you-can effect. The looks were styled with tight twin braids and dark lipstick — contrasting innocence with a femme fatale touch.

Top runway models Candice Swanepoel, Gigi Hadid and Doutzen Kroes opened the show as a Charlie's Angels trio in Sherlock Holmes gray, made sleek with tight silhouettes accented by zipped pockets and cinched waists. Joan Smalls and Kaia Gerber joined Hadid and her sister Bella Hadid in the closing look of silky sheaths with tiered detailing and military caps. The four clasped hands as they walked backstage.

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Bella Hadid wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Bella Hadid wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Fendi Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Models wear creations as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Models wear creations as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Designer Giorgio Armani accepts applause at the conclusion of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Designer Giorgio Armani accepts applause at the conclusion of the Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Models Joan Smalls, from front left, Gigi Hadid, Bella Hadid and Kaia Gerber wear creations with other models as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Models Joan Smalls, from front left, Gigi Hadid, Bella Hadid and Kaia Gerber wear creations with other models as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Faretta wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Faretta wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Models are photographed backstage prior to the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Models are photographed backstage prior to the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Models Candice Swanepoel, left, and Doutzen Kroes are photographed backstage prior to the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Models Candice Swanepoel, left, and Doutzen Kroes are photographed backstage prior to the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Models Candice Swanepoel, from left, Gigi Hadid and Doutzen Kroes wear creations as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Models Candice Swanepoel, from left, Gigi Hadid and Doutzen Kroes wear creations as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Kaia Gerber wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Kaia Gerber wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Kaia Gerber wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Kaia Gerber wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Gigi Hadid wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Model Gigi Hadid wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring-Summer 2020 collection, unveiled during the fashion week, in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2019. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

PARIS (AP) — French President Emmanuel Macron warned Thursday that Europe could “die” if it fails to build its own robust defense as Russia’s war in Ukraine rages on, or if it fails to undertake major trade and economic reforms to compete with China and the U.S.

Macron urged Europeans to become more ambitious in a fast-changing world to face the challenges of war, fierce trade competition, energy scarcity, climate change and increasing authoritarianism.

In a nearly two-hour speech at Sorbonne University in Paris, Macron said that the continent is divided and “too slow and lacks ambition” at a time when the 27-member European Union needs to become a superpower, defend its own borders and speak with one voice if it wants to survive and thrive.

“Our Europe today is mortal,” Macron said. “It can die and that depends solely on our choices,” he added. He called on people to make those choices now because, “it’s today that Europe is between war and peace.”

Russia's full-scale invasion of Ukraine, now in its third year, is an existential threat and Europe isn't armed enough to defend itself when “confronted by a power like Russia that has no inhibitions, no limits,” Macron said.

‘Our ability to ensure our security is at stake," Macron said. “Russia mustn’t be allowed to win.”

Europe now has the “good fortune” of having the Biden administration’s commitment to supporting Ukraine, Macron said. But, in a year of key elections around Europe, in the U.S. and elsewhere, support may fragment or disappear entirely, he added.

“Europe must become capable of defending its interests, with its allies by our side whenever they are willing, and alone if necessary,” Macron said.

Strong armies, a European rapid intervention program and force, tanks, a missile shield and other weapons, produced in Europe, will need the support of “a joint diplomatic force that will speak with one voice and build bridges with Africa and Latin America,” the French leader said.

“Only then will Europe show that it's not a United States’ lap dog, and that it also knows how to talk to other regions of the world,” he said.

France has been a firm supporter of Ukraine in its fight against Russian aggression, and Macron has often clashed with other Western leaders as he has insisted that Europe must stand by the country at any cost. The French president alarmed European leaders by saying recently that sending Western troops into Ukraine to shore up its defenses shouldn’t be ruled out.

Referring to trade practices of China and the U.S., Macron said “the two world powers have decided not to respect the rules of global trade” by shoring up protections and subsides while Europe’s industry remains open and is stuck in overregulation.

“Let’s do the same, we are in competition,” Macron said.

“We must buy faster, we must produce more and we must buy more that is made in Europe. That is key,” Macron said.

Thursday's speech came less than two months before a pivotal European Parliament election.

Macron, an avid advocate of a united and assertive Europe, also rallied support for his centrist Renaissance party before the June 6-9 vote as far-right parties lead the moderate coalitions in the polls. He called for safeguarding democratic values as the “authoritarian model” was becoming “more popular” across the continent.

The war in Ukraine and immigration are top priorities for European Union voters, according to polls. Far-right parties have gained support by criticizing Macron’s government policies on both issues. Macron acknowledged divisions on immigration policies, including on asylum and deportation rules for those who have arrived to Europe illegally.

He emphasized the need for an effective response and Europe-wide coordination for curbing illegal immigration, closer cooperation with immigrants' countries of origin and a unified, relentless fight against human traffickers.

Macron criticized the idea of striking an agreement, as Britain as done, with countries in Africa and elsewhere to transfer immigrants there.

“This is a betrayal of our values that ultimately leads us to dependency on other counties,” Macron said.

The British government earlier this week approved a law allowing the deportation of some migrants who enter the country illegally to Rwanda.

Macron lost his majority in France’s most influential house of parliament, the National Assembly, after the 2022 election to the far-left coalition and the far-right National Rally party.

The social situation in France remains tense as Paris prepares to host the Olympic Games this summer, amid protests from teachers and police officers, and farmer demonstrations in recent weeks. The protests follow huge rallies last year against Macron’s ultimately successful proposal to increase the retirement age from 62 to 64.

Barbara Surk reported from Nice, France. Lorne Cook contributed to this report from Brussels.

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron arrives to deliver a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron arrives to deliver a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron delivers a speech on Europe in the amphitheater of the Sorbonne University, Thursday, April 25 in Paris. 2024. French President Emmanuel Macron will outline his vision for Europe as a more assertive global power at the backdrop of war in Ukraine, security, and economic challenges in a speech ahead of pivotal election for the European Parliament in June. (Christophe Petit Tesson, Pool via AP)

French President Emmanuel Macron speaks during a media conference at an EU summit in Brussels, Thursday, April 18, 2024. European Union leaders on Wednesday debated a new "European Competitiveness Deal" aimed at helping the 27-nation bloc close the gap with Chinese and American rivals amid fears the region's industries will otherwise be left behind for good. (AP Photo/Omar Havana)

French President Emmanuel Macron speaks during a media conference at an EU summit in Brussels, Thursday, April 18, 2024. European Union leaders on Wednesday debated a new "European Competitiveness Deal" aimed at helping the 27-nation bloc close the gap with Chinese and American rivals amid fears the region's industries will otherwise be left behind for good. (AP Photo/Omar Havana)

Recommended Articles