HBO doc peers into Ralph Lauren's rose-tinted American Dream

Of all the editors, fashion notables, filmmakers and cultural critics who opine on Ralph Lauren in the new documentary "Very Ralph," it's an unlikely voice who perhaps most succinctly describes the appeal of the Lauren empire.

Kanye West says he was seeking a way to stand out early in his career.

"What would be my magician's cloak? It was the Polo shirt," West says. "It said that I could travel from the south side of Chicago to the beaches of Montauk."

FILE - This Nov. 5, 1997 file photo shows designer Ralph Lauren after showing of his spring collection during Fashion Week in New York. Lauren recently celebrated his label’s 50th birthday, and a new HBO documentary, "Very Ralph," marks the occasion with a profile of the man who is the closest thing that America has to a national designer. (AP PhotoRichard Drew, File)

That shirt was also an important bit of cultural currency for Jason Wu, the Taiwanese-born designer who moved to New York at age 18. Owning it, he says, signified that you were suddenly "part of the club" — meaning part of Lauren's American Dream, a dream that was meant to be rosy and aspirational but also open to anyone.

The title of "Very Ralph," which premieres Tuesday on HBO, is a playful nod to the idea that Lauren, who has been designing for more than a half-century now, is one of the few who merits his own adjective.

But it's a hard adjective to define: Just ask the man himself.

FILE - This Sept. 15, 2006 file photo shows designer Ralph Lauren shaking hands with an audience member after the showing of his spring 2007 collection in New York. Lauren recently celebrated his label’s 50th birthday, and a new HBO documentary, "Very Ralph," marks the occasion with a profile of the man who is the closest thing that America has to a national designer. (AP PhotoRichard Drew, File)

"It's a look," he told The Associated Press in a recent interview, when asked to specify just what "very Ralph" meant to him. "It could be safari, it could be western, it could be New England, it could be tweed," he added, naming some of his favorite inspirations. "Or it could be a house, where you walk in and say, 'Oh, that's very Ralph.'"

The soft-spoken, 80-year-old designer was sitting in a room at the Metropolitan Museum of Art late last month, reflecting on his career. A team bustled around him preparing for the film's premiere party in the Temple of Dendur, where the Met Gala is held. And it felt like a mini-Met Gala: standing a few feet from Lauren was his friend Bruce Springsteen.

Lauren replied with a shrug when asked why he thinks he's been able to endure in an industry always obsessed with the next big thing.

FILE - This Jan. 16, 2002 file photo shows U.S. fashion designer Ralph Lauren posing after presenting the Ralph Lauren Purple Label FallWinter 2002 men's fashion collection, in Milan, Italy. Lauren recently celebrated his label’s 50th birthday, and a new HBO documentary, "Very Ralph," marks the occasion with a profile of the man who is the closest thing that America has to a national designer. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni, File)

"It's just what I do," he said. "It's a timeless thing. I don't love fashion; I love things that look good." He pointed to his black suit: "I've been wearing this same suit for 25, 30 years. It fits better now. But my thing isn't about what's in this year, what's out next year. I've built a concept that has a point of view, and a good following."

The film's director, Susan Lacy, would say that's a bit too modest an assessment. The fact that Lauren is still working at the top of his label (though he stepped down as CEO in 2015) is "a remarkable achievement," Lacy says. "Particularly in the fashion business which is so of-the-moment. Ralph is just still there."

Lacy, who has profiled Steven Spielberg and Jane Fonda, says she felt it was time to focus on Lauren not only because of his label's 50th anniversary in 2018, but because he's the closest thing to a national American designer. In the film, Hillary Clinton describes gratefully how Lauren stepped up to help restore the original Star-Spangled banner, with a gift of $13 million.

FILE - This Feb. 18, 2010 file photo shows designer Ralph Lauren after his fall 2010 collection was presented during Fashion Week in New York. Lauren recently celebrated his label’s 50th birthday, and a new HBO documentary, "Very Ralph," marks the occasion with a profile of the man who is the closest thing that America has to a national designer. (AP PhotoRichard Drew, File)

Lauren cooperated with the film but wasn't necessarily eager to spill his life's secrets. "Ralph is not a person given to divulging," Lacy says.

That said, "Very Ralph" is rarely if ever critical. Lacy says that's because "there's not a tremendous amount to criticize about Ralph, except what he is (often) criticized for, which is that he is not particularly original, and that you can almost make fun of the consistency of the aspirational and optimistic message he sends out."

But it's Lauren's optimistic view of the world that informs the most engaging parts of the movie. Lacy and HBO had access to a wealth of archival material, including rare home scenes of a very private man.

FILE - In this Sept. 29, 2015 file photo, designer Ralph Lauren poses in his office in New York. Lauren recently celebrated his label’s 50th birthday, and a new HBO documentary, "Very Ralph," marks the occasion with a profile of the man who is the closest thing that America has to a national designer. (AP PhotoJason DeCrow, File)

These include shots of Lauren dancing like one of his cinematic heroes, Fred Astaire, in a white dinner jacket with an umbrella, or pretending to be James Bond with one of his three children, or dancing on the beach with his wife, Ricky — his "muse," about whom he unabashedly gushes. "My vision is what my wife looks like," he says.

The film traces Lauren's rise from his modest childhood as Ralph Lifshitz in the Bronx, the son of immigrants from Belarus. His brother Jerry reveals that it was he, not Ralph, who came up with the name change, having tired of schoolboy jokes.

Calvin Klein, who also grew up in the Bronx, notes that young Ralph "dressed in a way that was so different than everybody else. I thought, 'How cool that he had the courage to walk around like that.'"

He started as a tie salesman. When he was ready to market his own ties, the Bloomingdale's buyer said they were too wide and wanted him to remove his own label. He refused, but soon Lauren would demand, and get, his very own shop on the store's main floor.

Ties led to a menswear line, in an industry that hadn't paid much attention to high fashion for men, and eventually womenswear. He then became a lifestyle brand, aiming to create a world, not just a wardrobe.

Notes filmmaker Ken Burns, of those famous Lauren ad campaigns showing beautiful people living beautifully: "You're not just buying an article of clothing. You've joined a narrative."

And listen as Audrey Hepburn tells Lauren what his designs evoke for her: "The country. Misty mornings. Summer afternoons. Great open spaces, corn fields, vegetable gardens, fireplaces and Jack Russell terriers."

Lauren is the first to say that not everything works. "Not everything is fantastic," he told the AP. "Every day is not heaven."

And there will always be critics, especially those who think his version of the American Dream is static, and not adaptable to new voices.

"There were many times where people didn't like what I did. There are still people who don't like what I do," he said. "But I think everyone has to have their own voice. I have a voice. I believe in what I'm doing."

"And so, I think I'm true to myself, and what I've done. And I don't think it's over."

WASHINGTON (AP) — The United States on Wednesday imposed new sanctions on hundreds of companies and people tied to Russia's weapons development program, more than a dozen Chinese entities accused of helping Moscow find workarounds to earlier penalties, and individuals linked to the death of Kremlin opposition leader Alexei Navalny.

The actions by the departments of Treasury and State target Russia’s military-industrial base, chemical weapons programs and people and companies in third countries that help Russia acquire weapons components as its invasion of Ukraine has entered its third year.

Treasury Secretary Janet Yellen said the action “will further disrupt and degrade Russia’s war efforts by going after its military industrial base and the evasion networks that help supply it.”

The Senate, meanwhile, gave final approval to legislation barring imports of Russian uranium, boosting U.S. efforts to disrupt Russia’s war in Ukraine. Democratic President Joe Biden is expected to sign the bill into law.

About 12% of the uranium used to produce electricity at U.S. nuclear power plants is imported from Russia, according to the U.S. Energy Information Administration.

A spokesperson for the National Security Council said Wednesday that Biden shares lawmakers’ concerns about U.S. reliance on Russia for low-enriched uranium to support its domestic nuclear fleet.

Included in the administration's announcement are importers of cotton cellulose and nitrocellulose, which are used to produce gunpowder, rocket propellants and other explosives. The penalties also target Russian government entities and people tied to Russia's chemical and biological weapons programs, companies related to Russia's natural gas construction projects and three workers at the penal colony where Navalny died.

Russian President Vladimir Putin has railed against earlier rounds of U.S. and Western penalties, claiming they are “illegitimate sanctions” on his country.

A group of 16 targets in China and Hong Kong, most of which are related to Russian procurement workarounds, are named by the Biden administration.

Yellen traveled to Guangzhou and Beijing last month to warn Chinese officials that they “must not provide material support for Russia’s war and that they will face significant consequences if they do."

China has said it is not providing Russia with arms or military assistance, although Beijing has maintained robust economic connections with Moscow, alongside India and other countries, as the West imposes sanctions.

Companies in China, Azerbaijan, Belgium, Slovakia, Turkey and the United Arab Emirates were accused of helping Russia acquire technology and equipment from abroad. The penalties aim to block them from using the U.S. financial system and bar American citizens from dealing with them.

Biden last week said he would immediately rush badly needed weaponry to Ukraine as he signed into law a $95 billion war aid measure that also included assistance for Israel, Taiwan and other global hot spots.

The upcoming uranium ban is also expected to impact Russian revenues by at least $1 billion. The U.S. banned Russian oil imports after Russia invaded Ukraine in early 2022 but did not against uranium, despite frequent calls to do so by U.S. lawmakers in both parties.

Wyoming Sen. John Barrasso, the top Republican on the Senate Energy and Natural Resources Committee, called the import ban “a tremendous victory” and said it “will help defund Russia’s war machine, revive American uranium production and jumpstart investments in America’s nuclear fuel supply chain.″

“Wyoming has the uranium to replace Russian imports, and we’re ready to use it,″ Barrasso added.

West Virginia Sen. Joe Manchin, a Democrat who heads that Senate committee, said it was "unconscionable” for the U.S. to help make it possible for Putin to “finance his unlawful war against Ukraine” through U.S. reliance on Russian uranium.

Besides the import ban, the legislation frees up $2.7 billion in previously authorized funding to ramp up domestic uranium production.

FILE- This June 6, 2019, file photo shows the U.S. Treasury Department building at dusk in Washington. The United States has imposed new sanctions on hundreds of firms and people tied to Russia’s weapons development program, more than a dozen Chinese firms accused of helping Russia find workarounds to sanctions and individuals tied to the death of Russian dissident Alexey Navalny. The sanctions imposed Wednesday by the Treasury and State departments target Russia’s military-industrial base, chemical weapons programs and people and firms in third countries that help Russia acquire weapons components as its invasion of Ukraine has entered its third year. (AP Photo/Patrick Semansky, File)