More than just a bowl of noodles, ramen in Japan is an experience and a tourist attraction

TOKYO (AP) — Spicy, steaming, slurpy ramen might be everyone’s favorite Japanese food.

In Tokyo, long lines circle around blocks, and waiting an hour for your ramen is normal. What awaits might be just a dive, but a hot bowl of ramen rarely fails to hit the spot.

Often cooked right before your eyes behind dingy counters, the noodle dish starts here at around 1,000 yen ($6.50), and comes in various flavors and local versions. There's salty, soy-based “shoyu” or “miso” paste. Perhaps it's red-hot spicy with a dash of chili. Sometimes there's no soup at all but a sauce to dip the noodles in.

The curly noodles are lighter than the darker buckwheat “soba,” or “udon,” which are also usually flatter or thicker.

Ramen has also surged in popularity in the U.S., South Korea and other countries. Retail sales in the United States have risen 72% since 2000, according to NielsenIQ, a sales tracker. In the 52 weeks ending April 13, Americans bought more than $1.6 billion worth of ramen.

In restaurants, versions beyond the traditional soup are appearing, said Technomic, a research and consulting company for the restaurant industry. Del Taco, a Mexican chain, recently introduced Shredded Beef Birria Ramen, for example.

Packaged ramen that's easily cooked in hot water at home is called instant noodles; it's precooked and then dried. The story of how Momofuku Ando invented instant ramen in a backyard shed in 1958, when food was still scarce, is the stuff of legend in Japan. He went on to found the food giant Nissin Foods.

Although convenient, instant noodles aren't the same as the ramen served at restaurants.

Some Japanese frequent ramen shops twice or three times a week. They emerge, dripping with sweat, smacking their lips.

“I’m probably a talking bowl of ramen,” says Frank Striegl as he leads a dozen American tourists through the back alleys of Tokyo’s funky Shibuya district on what he calls “the ultimate ramen experience.”

The crowd is led behind a shabby doorway, sometimes down narrow stairs, to a dim-lit table where ramen gets served in tiny bowls, practically the size of a latte cup, or about a quarter of a regular ramen bowl. That's so guests have enough room in their tummies to try out six different kinds of ramen, two at each spot during the tour.

One restaurant, Shinbusakiya, offers “Hokkaido classics” from the northernmost main island, while another, Nagi, offers “Fukuoka fusion,” from the southern main island of Kyushu. It includes a green ramen, similar to pasta al pesto. Syuuichi, which means “once a week,” features curry-flavored ramen.

“It’s not just, of course, about eating delicious ramen, but also learning about it,” said Striegl, a Filipino American who grew up in Tokyo. He calls ramen “people’s food.”

“A lot of countries around the world have their version of ramen in a way," he said. "So I think because of that, it’s a dish that’s easy to understand. It’s a dish that’s easy to get behind.”

While the tour participants were relishing their noodles, Striegl outlined a brief history of ramen: Its roots date back to the samurai era, when a shogun took a fancy to Chinese noodles, setting off the localizing journey for ramen that continues today.

Katie Sell, a graduate student on Striegl’s tour, called ramen "a kind of comfort food, especially in the winter. Get a group of friends, go have some ramen and just enjoy it.”

Kavi Patel, an engineer from New Jersey, said he was glad he included the humble ramen on his tour of Japan, along with more established attractions like the ancient capital of Kyoto and the deer park in Nara. “I’m having good fun,” he said.

While ramen has never been more popular in Japan, ramen places have struggled because of the pandemic, the weakening Japanese yen, and the higher cost of wheat imports and energy, according to a study by Tokyo Shoko Research.

One beneficiary of the pandemic is a home delivery service for frozen, professionally cooked ramen. Called takumen.com, it boasts some 500,000 subscribers in Japan.

Another Tokyo operation, Gourmet Innovation, has signed on 250 of the country's top ramen joints to sell packaged versions of their soup, noodles and toppings, to be heated up in boiling water and served at home.

Co-founder and executive Kenichi Nomaguchi, who hopes to expand his business overseas, says ramen and animation are Japan’s most successful exports.

Why ramen? Unlike pasta or curry, ramen is difficult to replicate at home, he said, Making it from scratch involves hours of cooking stock, with pork, beef or chicken, various fish or bonito flakes, and “kombu” kelp. Some stock uses oysters.

Besides the different soup stocks and flavors, onions, grated garlic, ginger or sesame oil can be added for extra punch. Toppings can include bean sprouts, barbecued pork, boiled or raw eggs, seaweed, fermented bamboo shoots called “menma,” chopped green onions, cooked cabbage, snow peas or corn.

Some insist a bowl of ramen is not complete without a slice of narutomaki, a whitefish cake with a pink spiral pattern.

Unusual varieties include coffee ramen and ramen topped with ice cream or pineapple.

Jiro-style ramen, named for a legendary restaurant in Tokyo, features mounds of vegetable toppings, huge steak-like barbecued pork and pungent, grated garlic seeped in a fatty pork-based stock.

“Impact is important. So the pork has to be big so it’s truly memorable,” said Kota Kobayashi, who serves Jiro-style ramen at his chain, “Ore No Ikiru Michi,” which translates to, “The way I live my life.”

Kobayashi is a former professional baseball player at the Yokohama Bay Stars, and played with the minor league Cleveland Guardians before switching to his ramen business.

“When I quit baseball, I chose ramen as my way of life,” he said with a smile.

He can wax philosophical about ramen. One cultural difference he has observed is that Americans tend to leave the noodles and drink all the soup, while the Japanese mostly do the opposite.

And taste is only part of what makes good ramen. One must also offer entertainment, Kobayashi said.

At his restaurants, the chopsticks are tucked in a box on a shelf, so first-time visitors ask where they are. Repeat customers go straight to that box. Kobayashi calls out, “Welcome back,” making the customers feel a connection, even if he doesn't remember a thing about them.

Dee-Ann Durbin contributed to this story from Detroit.

Yuri Kageyama is on X: https://twitter.com/yurikageyama

Kota Kobayashi, owner of a chain ramen shop called "Ore No Ikiru Michi," speaks during an interview with The Associated Press on April 17, 2024, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

Kota Kobayashi prepares a bowl of noodle at his chain called "Ore No Ikiru Michi" in Tokyo on April 17, 2024. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

Co-founder and executive Kenichi Nomaguchi of Gourmet Innovation, speaks during an interview with The Associated Press in Tokyo, on April 10, 2024. Gourmet Innovation has signed on 250 of the country's top ramen joints to sell packaged versions of their soup, noodles and toppings, to be heated up in boiling water and served at home. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

Co-founder and executive Kenichi Nomaguchi of Tokyo-based Gourmet Innovation, explains on the merchandise during an interview with The Associated Press, in Tokyo on April 10, 2024. Gourmet Innovation has signed on 250 of the country's top ramen joints to sell packaged versions of their soup, noodles and toppings, to be heated up in boiling water and served at home. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

A staff member cooks one of their ramen merchandise sold online at Gourmet Innovation in Tokyo, on April 10, 2024. Gourmet Innovation has signed on 250 of the country's top ramen joints to sell packaged versions of their soup, noodles and toppings, to be heated up in boiling water and served at home. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

A staff member cooks one of their ramen merchandise sold online at Gourmet Innovation, in Tokyo Wednesday, April 10, 2024. Gourmet Innovation has signed on 250 of the country's top ramen joints to sell packaged versions of their soup, noodles and toppings, to be heated up in boiling water and served at home. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

Frank Striegl, right, a guide of Tokyo Ramen Tours, explains foreign participants of a ramen tasting tour at Shinbusakiya, a ramen shop which offers "Hokkaido classics," at Shibuya district on April 2, 2024, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

Frank Striegl, a guide of Tokyo Ramen Tours, walks inside Nagi, which offers "Fukuoka fusion," type ramen at Shibuya district on April 2, 2024, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

A chef cooks noodle for participants of Tokyo Ramen Tours at Nagi, which offers "Fukuoka fusion," type ramen at Shibuya district on April 2, 2024, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

A staff member prepares to serve noodles for participants of Tokyo Ramen Tours at Syuuichi, which means "once a week," featuring curry-flavored ramen, at Shibuya district on April 2, 2024, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

Frank Striegl, bottom right, a guide of Tokyo Ramen Tours, explains participants of a ramen tasting tour at Nagi, which offers "Fukuoka fusion," type ramen at Shibuya district on April 2, 2024, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

Chefs prepare noodles for participants of Tokyo Ramen Tours at Syuuichi, which means "once a week," featuring curry-flavored ramen, at Shibuya district on April 2, 2024, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

Participants of Tokyo Ramen Tours enter Shinbusakiya, a ramen shop which offers "Hokkaido classics," at Shibuya district on April 2, 2024, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

Frank Striegl, center, a guide of Tokyo Ramen Tours, leads several participants of a ramen tasting tour near Shibuya pedestrian crossing at Shibuya district on April 2, 2024, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

Frank Striegl, standing at center, a guide of Tokyo Ramen Tours, explains foreign participants of a ramen tasting tour at Nagi which offers "Fukuoka fusion," type ramen at Shibuya district on April 2, 2024, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

Participants eat the noodle at Shinbusakiya, a ramen shop which offers "Hokkaido classics," during Tokyo Ramen Tours at Shibuya district on April 2, 2024, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

A staff member prepares small bowls of noodle for participants of Tokyo Ramen Tours at Shinbusakiya, a ramen shop which offers "Hokkaido classics," at Shibuya district on April 2, 2024, in Tokyo. (AP Photo/Eugene Hoshiko)

LAS VEGAS (AP) — Boos began raining down on Golden Knights captain Mark Stone at American Airlines Center in Dallas the moment he first touched the puck. They didn't let up whenever the first-round series was in Dallas.

Stars fans weren't happy that the poster boy of all that is questionable with how long-term injured reserve operates was back on the ice just in time for the playoffs.

Again.

No team is more scrutinized than Vegas for how it uses LTIR. To critics and skeptical fans, it looks very much like manipulation of the salary cap — even though the NHL has steadfastly maintained it is fine with it all.

Stone has gone on LTIR each of the past three seasons, which allows the Golden Knights to exceed the cap by roughly the amount of his salary until the playoffs begin. The Knights have taken advantage by acquiring players such as Jack Eichel, Ivan Barbashev, Tomas Hertl and Noah Hanifin. It was Hanifin's goal Friday night that forced a Game 7 against Dallas.

The past two years — after back surgery in 2023 and recovering from a lacerated spleen this season — Stone was activated off LTIR for the postseason opener.

As many fans around the league howled at the remarkable timing of Stone's recovery, a smiling Hayley Thompson posed with a fan wearing her husband's No. 61 jersey with LTIR on the nameplate.

Vegas is hardly alone in using LTIR to its benefit. PuckPedia's Hart Levine said 69% of teams used LTIR this season to exceed the cap, which is $83.5 million this season. The website that tracks salaries around the league also lists 10 playoff teams ending the regular season having exceeded the cap, with the Toronto Maple Leafs ($14.15 million over) and Tampa Bay Lightning ($10.27 million) topping the list.

Vegas is third at $8.72 million above the cap. The team gets attention because it has used LTIR every year to seek talent at the trade deadline. Unprompted, general manager Kelly McCrimmon took a few moments to address the issue before the postseason began. He said "the NHL is 100% involved” in all matters involving LTIR.

McCrimmon said the league had complete access to Stone's medical information and NHL doctors communicated with the surgeon and the Golden Knights' medical staff.

“That's what keeps the system legitimate,” McCrimmon said. “They are the people that are fully involved in this. I don't know maybe fans or media understand the degree to which these injuries are scrutinized. We've had the situation with Mark. Ironically, it's the same player. We talked openly what his surgery was a year ago. This year was a freak accident.”

Levine noted that a timeline of Stone's recovery had to be provided to the league and the process documented. He also said there are parts of the process open to interpretation.

“The fact that (Stone) was magically healed and ready to go for Game 1 of the playoffs for the second year in a row obviously leaves a poor taste in everybody's mouth," Levine said. “I certainly think it's a bad look and it does lead to frustration among fans, which is important. I don't think anything was done that was against the rules. No one cheated or anything. It's just using the rules as they are and living in a bit of the gray area.”

Chicago star Patrick Kane was placed on LTIR in 2015 with a broken clavicle, the Blackhawks added three players at the trade deadline and he returned in time for the playoffs. The Blackhawks went on to beat the Lightning in the Stanley Cup Final.

Tampa Bay used the rule to its advantage when Nikita Kucherov missed the pandemic-shortened season because of hip surgery and Steven Stamkos went on LTIR with a lower-body injury before the trade deadline. Each player returned in time to help the Lightning repeat as champions.

“We had a great season,” Carolina defenseman Dougie Hamilton said back in 2021 after the Hurricanes were eliminated by Tampa Bay in the second round. “We lost to a team that’s $18 million over the cap.”

Fans accused the Blackhawks and Lightning of circumventing the cap, much like the criticism of Vegas in recent years.

It’s unclear if the league and NHL Players’ Association will discuss the matter again as soon as this summer, though it has been on the radar as a topic. Deputy Commissioner Bill Daly said to this point there has been no groundswell of opposition demanding change.

Levine said there are possible solutions, such as limiting a team exceeding the cap to replacing only 50% of the lost annual salary. He added that things need to be simplified; how much of a salary gets freed up depends on a complicated formula that is not spelled out in the collective bargaining agreement.

“It's in memos and verbal discussions with the league,” Levine said. “There are many front-office people who manage the cap that really don't have a great handle on all the intricacies.”

He said no other major sport leagues use this kind of system where an injury can end up benefiting a team when the postseason begins.

“I would say there's definitely a possibility of a change because I do think it's rather embarrassing for the league,” Levine said.

AP Hockey Writer Stephen Whyno contributed.

AP NHL playoffs: https://apnews.com/hub/stanley-cup and https://apnews.com/hub/nhl

Tampa Bay Lightning center Steven Stamkos (91) celebrates his goal against the Florida Panthers with right wing Nikita Kucherov (86) and defenseman Matt Dumba (24) during the third period in Game 4 of an NHL hockey Stanley Cup first-round playoff series, Saturday, April 27, 2024, in Tampa, Fla. (AP Photo/Chris O'Meara)

Vegas Golden Knights defenseman Noah Hanifin (15) celebrates after scoring against the Dallas Stars during the third period in Game 6 of an NHL hockey Stanley Cup first-round playoff series Friday, May 3, 2024, in Las Vegas. (AP Photo/John Locher)

Vegas Golden Knights goaltender Logan Thompson (36) celebrates with Mark Stone (61), Noah Hanifin (15) and Zach Whitecloud (2) after Game 1 of an NHL hockey Stanley Cup first-round playoff series against the Dallas Stars in Dallas, Monday, April 22, 2024. The Golden Knights won 4-3. (AP Photo/Tony Gutierrez)

Vegas Golden Knights right wing Mark Stone (61) celebrates with the bench after scoring against the Dallas Stars in the first period in Game 5 of an NHL hockey Stanley Cup first-round playoff series in Dallas, Wednesday, May 1, 2024. (AP Photo/Tony Gutierrez)

Vegas Golden Knights right wing Mark Stone looks on during the second period in Game 2 of an NHL hockey Stanley Cup first-round playoff series against the Dallas Stars in Dallas, Wednesday, April 24, 2024. (AP Photo/Tony Gutierrez)