Sport climbers celebrate decision to split events and award extra medal at Paris Olympics

LE BOURGET, France (AP) — The sport climbing competition is coming to a close at the Paris Games with athletes celebrating the decision to separate the speed discipline from boulder and lead.

The sport made its Olympic debut in Tokyo three years ago and awarded only one medal each for the men and women, combining the results from all three disciplines in an unpopular decision.

It was like having a “sprinter only competing in the decathlon,” said Austrian climber Jakob Schubert, a lead and boulder specialist. It’s “almost like different sports,” he added.

“The decision was just really beneficial for everyone,” Schubert said. “These disciplines are just not really connected. So I think it really made sense. And I think every athlete was happy.”

While the speed discipline is more about power and explosiveness — a “mix of climbing and athletics," as Schubert noted — the lead and boulder are more about technique and problem solving.

In speed, climbers have to go up a 15-meter (49-foot) wall as fast as possible while competing side-by-side against an opponent. In boulder, they face short technical routes on a 4-meter (13-foot) wall, having to overcome the most “problems” in the lowest number of attempts. In lead, climbers need to go as high as they can on a 15-meter (49-foot) wall within a 6-minute time limit.

The decision to separate the disciplines allowed athletes to focus on their strengths and ultimately improved the overall performance of athletes. It was noticed through a high number of world records broken in Paris.

“Definitely makes a big difference,” American boulder and lead specialist Colin Duffy said. “Speed took a decent chunk out of our training, just learn how to do it, and then from there, make progress. So I think the level of the sport has really increased in the last three years as people are starting to specialize more.”

Aleksandra Miroslaw of Poland won the speed event in Tokyo three years ago with a world-record time but missed out on the podium with a fourth-place finish after the results were combined with lead and boulder.

“That speed was separate doesn’t mean that it was easier,” Miroslaw said after winning the speed gold in Paris this week.

There is talk of possibly also splitting boulder and lead for the Los Angeles Games in 2028, adding a third medal to sport climbing. It would not mean such a drastic change as now, as the disciplines are more connected than they are with speed, but some climbers already said they would welcome another medal opportunity.

“We have had World Cups and world championships in all three disciplines for the longest time,” Schubert said. “So I think it’s fine to have a combined, but you still need a medal in each discipline.”

American Sam Watson won the bronze medal in speed in Paris while twice breaking the disciplines' world record. He said the high-level performances shown at the 2024 Olympics were a reflection of athletes being allowed to focus on their strengths.

“I think the idea of having its own model definitely incentivized that and allowed speed and bouldering lead to have their own positive platforms, and I’m really happy that’s the case,” he said.

The sport climbing competition ends Saturday with the final for boulder and lead.

AP Summer Olympics: https://apnews.com/hub/2024-paris-olympic-games

Sam Watson of the United States, left, and Reza Alipour Shenazandifard of Iran compete in the men's speed final during the sport climbing competition at the 2024 Summer Olympics, Thursday, Aug. 8, 2024, in Le Bourget, France. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena, Pool)

Seo Chaehyun of South Korea competes in the women's boulder and lead semifinal, during the sport climbing competition at the 2024 Summer Olympics, Thursday, Aug. 8, 2024, in Le Bourget, France. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena, Pool)

Laura Rogora of Italy, right, and Zelia Avezou of France compete in the women's boulder and lead, semi-final boulder, sport climbing competition at the 2024 Summer Olympics, Tuesday, Aug. 6, 2024, in Le Bourget, France. (AP Photo/Tsvangirayi Mukwazhi)

Seo Chaehyun of South Korea competes in the women's boulder and lead semifinal, during the sport climbing competition at the 2024 Summer Olympics, Thursday, Aug. 8, 2024, in Le Bourget, France. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena, Pool)

Jakob Schubert of Austria reacts as he competes in the men's boulder and lead, boulder final, during the sport climbing competition at the 2024 Summer Olympics, Friday, Aug. 9, 2024, in Le Bourget, France. (AP Photo/Tsvangirayi Mukwazhi)

Gold medallist Aleksandra Miroslaw of Poland celebrates on the podium after winnin the women's speed final during the sport climbing competition at the 2024 Summer Olympics, Wednesday, Aug. 7, 2024, in Le Bourget, France. (AP Photo/Tsvangirayi Mukwazhi)

Sam Watson of the United States competes in the men's speed final small during the sport climbing competitionat the 2024 Summer Olympics, Thursday, Aug. 8, 2024, in Le Bourget, France. (Michael Reaves/Pool Photo via AP)

Colin Duffy of the United States competes in the men's boulder and lead, boulder final, during the sport climbing competition at the 2024 Summer Olympics, Friday, Aug. 9, 2024, in Le Bourget, France. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena, Pool)

Jakob Schubert of Austria competes in the men's boulder and lead, boulder final, during the sport climbing competition at the 2024 Summer Olympics, Friday, Aug. 9, 2024, in Le Bourget, France. (AP Photo/Tsvangirayi Mukwazhi)

NEW YORK (AP) — The longtime host of “The Late Show with David Letterman” found himself answering questions rather than asking them when a federal judge in New York City put the entertainer through an audition of sorts on Monday for a possible role as a juror in a criminal trial.

It was the serious setting of a criminal trial over a cryptocurrency fraud when Judge P. Kevin Castel confronted the famous bearded comedian, identified in court only as “Juror 16,” with questions just as he did three dozen other potential jurors to determine who would be on a panel of 12 jurors and four alternates.

The prospective jurors had already survived a general round of questioning in which individuals are dismissed for hardship reasons, such as medical issues or jobs from which they cannot be spared. The trial is expected to last less than two weeks.

When Letterman, who stepped down from his show in 2015, made it to what could be the final round for admittance on the jury, the judge lobbed a softball: “Where do you live?”

“Hartford,” Letterman responded, proving that he couldn't make it through a single word without delivering a joke.

“No, it's a joke,” Letterman quickly let the judge know. Hartford is in Connecticut, which would have disqualified him from the jury because it is outside the area where jurors are drawn from.

“Nice try,” the judge responded, adding, “You figured you would forgo Queens,” another location outside the area covered by the Southern District of New York. Queens is located in the Eastern District of New York.

After Letterman revealed his true area of residence — Westchester County — the pair began a volley of questions and answers totaling nearly three dozen exchanges.

Along the way, the judge, lawyers and three dozen or so prospective jurors learned a lot that the world already knows about Letterman. He was born in Indianapolis, obtained a degree from Ball State University in Muncie, Indiana, and has a 20-year-old son in college in Massachusetts.

Asked what he does for a living, Letterman said he was currently “working for a company called Netflix.”

“Spouse or significant other?” Castel asked.

“I've had both. Currently I just have the spouse,” Letterman responded.

Asked how he gets his news, Letterman gave a nod to the past, saying: “Every morning I used to pick up the paper off the front porch. Now, I turn on the computer and it's an aggregation of news sources from all over the United States and around the world.”

Asked what he likes to watch besides any Netflix programs he's involved with, Letterman said, “I like sports.”

“I'm happy football is here. I'm happy it's this time in the baseball season. I like motor sports. I like pretty much what most Americans watch on TV,” he said.

The judge asked him if he's an Indianapolis Colts football fan.

“Big Colts fan. 0 and 2, but still a fan,” he said, referring to the fact that the Colts have lost their first two games this season.

For hobbies, Letterman said he likes to fish, ski and be outdoors.

“Ever called as a juror?” the judge asked.

“Been called many times. Just couldn't make it happen,” Letterman answered.

“You know, this may be the charm,” Castel said, aware that Letterman had a 50-50 chance to make it onto the panel.

“It would be a pleasure,” Letterman said.

In the end, shortly before the jury was sworn in, Letterman was ejected when a prosecutor exercised what is known as a “strike,” which allows lawyers on either side to release a certain number of potential jurors from the panel for any reason at all. It was the third of four strikes exercised by prosecutors. No reason was given.

David Letterman arrives at federal court in New York, Monday Sept. 16, 2024. (AP Photo/Stefan Jeremiah)

David Letterman arrives at federal court in New York, Monday Sept. 16, 2024. (AP Photo/Stefan Jeremiah)

David Letterman arrives at federal court in New York, Monday Sept. 16, 2024. (AP Photo/Stefan Jeremiah)

David Letterman arrives at federal court in New York, Monday Sept. 16, 2024. (AP Photo/Stefan Jeremiah)

David Letterman arrives at federal court in New York, Monday Sept. 16, 2024. (AP Photo/Stefan Jeremiah)