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Milan fashion houses from Boss to Marras mute the color story for next summer

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Milan fashion houses from Boss to Marras mute the color story for next summer
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Milan fashion houses from Boss to Marras mute the color story for next summer

2024-09-19 00:15 Last Updated At:00:21

MILAN (AP) — Milan designers dipped on Wednesday into neutrals and muted tones for next summer — reflecting both a conservative streak in troubled times and a move toward thoughtful production of garments that can anchor any wardrobe.

Boss revamped its trademark suiting with a more relaxed, even deconstructed, vibe that can take men and women from day to after hours. Antonio Marras created joyous silhouettes that harkened to the 1950s, an era long depicted as fun and carefree.

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A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Designer Antonio Marras accepts applause after his Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Designer Antonio Marras accepts applause after his Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Models wear creations as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Models wear creations as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Models wear creations as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Models wear creations as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Dancers perform during the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Dancers perform during the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Models wear creation sas part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Models wear creation sas part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Former soccer star David Beckham attends the Boss Spring Summer 2025 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Former soccer star David Beckham attends the Boss Spring Summer 2025 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Former soccer star David Beckham attends the Boss Spring Summer 2025 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Former soccer star David Beckham attends the Boss Spring Summer 2025 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Former soccer star David Beckham attends the Boss Spring Summer 2025 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Former soccer star David Beckham attends the Boss Spring Summer 2025 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Models wear creation sas part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Models wear creation sas part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Models wear creation sas part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Models wear creation sas part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Here are some highlights from runway preview shows on the second day of Milan Fashion Week of mostly womenswear for Spring-Summer 2025.

Boss designer Marco Falcioni is sending a message to the fashion universe: Get out of the office.

“Being the boss means taking time off to rest. Resting is the ultimate luxury,’’ Falcioni, senior vice president of creative direction at the German brand, said backstage.

To encourage a better work-life balance in a frenetic world, Falcioni has relaxed the business suit, subtracting shoulder pads and jacket linings, and layering generously, for a less button-down vibe.

Trousers for men were at times cut off just below the knee, and for women cuffed to a cropped length. Worried about a summer chill? Then layer with leggings. Drawstring detailing on trousers and blouses gave the garments technical functionality. Women’s jackets wrapped prettily around the middle. Flat or heeled mules finished the looks, for him and her. A neutral color palette was offset by muted shades of green and blue.

Bags were left open, to show off the utilitarian compartments within, for keys, reading glasses and pens. They could be carried alongside a leather racket case or yoga mat strap, letting the world know the workday is done.

Swing dancers and a four-piece saxophone-led band set an upbeat tone at Antonio Marras’ runway show, which featured a summery collection celebrating picture postcard destinations.

Marras took a cue from the life of Italian actress Anna Maria Pierangeli, better known as Pier Angeli, who left her native Sardinia for Hollywood, where she started a romance with James Dean, with whom she often jetted to Acapulco.

Marras’ collection is a celebration of a night out on the town, with the female silhouette defined by full skirts, tight waistlines and exaggerated shoulders. Fringe tops and skirts swayed, and layered grass skirts rustled. For men, boldly shaped suits and more casual silky Bermuda short and shirt combos featured big tropical prints

While putting on a happy front, Pierangeli craved her mother’s approval for her romance with Dean, imploring her mother to “think about Jimmy,” according to an imagined exchange included with show notes. “I adore him, and he adores me.”

Perhaps with this doomed affair in mind, Marras kept the color story mute. Still, he added beading, sequin and shimmering gold and silver accents, a sign of hope.

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Designer Antonio Marras accepts applause after his Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Designer Antonio Marras accepts applause after his Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Models wear creations as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Models wear creations as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Models wear creations as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Models wear creations as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Dancers perform during the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Dancers perform during the Antonio Marras Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Models wear creation sas part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Models wear creation sas part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Former soccer star David Beckham attends the Boss Spring Summer 2025 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Former soccer star David Beckham attends the Boss Spring Summer 2025 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Former soccer star David Beckham attends the Boss Spring Summer 2025 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Former soccer star David Beckham attends the Boss Spring Summer 2025 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Former soccer star David Beckham attends the Boss Spring Summer 2025 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Former soccer star David Beckham attends the Boss Spring Summer 2025 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Models wear creation sas part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Models wear creation sas part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Models wear creation sas part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Models wear creation sas part of the Boss Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Wednesday, Sept. 18, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

ISLAMABAD (AP) — A gas cylinder explosion early Sunday after a wedding reception at a home in Pakistan’s capital killed at least eight people, including the bride and groom, police and officials said.

The blast occurred as guests who had gathered to celebrate the couple were sleeping at the house, causing part of the house to collapse, according to the Islamabad police. Seven people were injured.

In a statement, police said the explosion occurred in a residential area in the heart of the city. A government administrator, Sahibzada Yousaf, said authorities were alerted about the blast early Sunday and officers are still investigating. He said some nearby homes were also damaged.

Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif expressed grief over the loss of lives and offered condolences to the victims’ families, according to a statement from his office. He directed health authorities to ensure the injured receive the best possible treatment and ordered a full investigation.

Many Pakistani households rely on liquefied petroleum gas cylinders because of low natural gas pressure, and such cylinders have been linked to deadly accidents caused by gas leaks. Police said investigations were ongoing.

Government officials survey the damage of a home caused by a gas cylinder explosion hours after a wedding reception, in Islamabad, Pakistan, Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026. (AP Photo/Ehsan Shahzad)

Government officials survey the damage of a home caused by a gas cylinder explosion hours after a wedding reception, in Islamabad, Pakistan, Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026. (AP Photo/Ehsan Shahzad)

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