Prada's Eras Tour explores the past to offer infinite options during Milan Fashion Week

MILAN (AP) — Milan designers on Thursday challenged the notion that a collection should dictate how one dresses, offering instead individual looks that can elevate, transform or simply complement a wardrobe.

Prada led the charge with a collection that served as a review of its past, offering updated elements for the Prada woman to create her own power. A much newer Milan player, Maccapani, is making the mixing of the old and new the hallmark of the brand, now in its third season.

Some highlights from the third day of Milan Fashion Week of mostly womenswear previews for Spring-Summer 2025.

Call it the Prada Eras Tour. The Spring-Summer 2025 womenswear collection featured a review of Prada eras past, reinterpreted with a surreal, sometimes sci-fi eye.

“It was finding ways of being Prada today,” Miuccia Prada said backstage.

Prada, with her co-creative director Raf Simons, said the collection aims at finding humanity in an era when information overload is driven by algorithms. Instead of exploring themes on the runway, the designers created individual looks, playing up to the strengths of each character they created.

“We thought of each individual as a superhero, with their own power, their own story,’’ Simons said. In this scenario, clothes “can transform your own perception of yourself.’’

Prada’s human proposition becomes one of “infinite options,” unaided by Artificial Intelligence, to create your own power.

Skirts were suspended with rings from belts that fastened around the waist, giving 1990s Prada vibes. A-line treated leather skirts had a post-modern futuristic turn with circle cutouts. A leather sheath clanked with hardware. High-waist trousers featured a trompe-l’oeil belt, knitwear had two-dimensional collars. Ribbed leggings substituted trousers, belted or layered, under a transparent tulle skirt.

The designers’ superhero element was most literal in bug-eyed sunglasses and topless hats with tinted viewing panels.

Emporio Armani played with masculine codes for its new womenswear collection, revamping the necktie along the way.

A photograph projected behind the runway from a 2000 Guggenheim retrospective of designer Giorgio Armani's first 25 years featured a woman dressed in a men's suit and tie — underlining the tie's enduring symbolism. Once a sign of gender equality, it "becomes a playful trend,” according to show notes.

A sequined tie was worn playfully as a bandeau top under a jacket for evening. Ties elegantly anchored daytime business suits, a belted tunic, or a dark evening suit jacket with sheer trousers.

Masculinity and femininity were balanced in soft jackets and flowing trousers, blousons and loose outerwear. A woven bootie was the footwear of choice. The color palette evolved from muted neutrals into bright hues, along with beads and sequins.

Titled Future Perfect, the collection was both a look back and a projection forward.

As he has recently, the 90-year-old Armani took his final bow with Leo Dell’Orco, head of design for menswear, and Silvana Armani, head of design for womenswear. He was also joined by two other long-time collaborators, Nicola Lamorgese, the head of design for Emporio Armani menswear, and Marco Brunello, head of design for womenswear.

The new Max Mara collection takes shape through origami folds, which creative director Ian Griffiths made into a leitmotif.

The "humble dart," as he called it, became a design feature, creating asymmetrical, draping dresses, or volumes on skirts, or a revival of a 1980s jacket tied at the side. The result was a clean wardrobe that belies the intricacy of the hand craftsmanship.

The Max Mara woman "likes to shock with the degree of precision in her look, how thought-through she is," Griffiths said. "It is our job at Max Mara to make that easy to achieve."

The collection in the brand’s trademark monochromes had an underlying sensuality, with bra tops, slits and cutouts offering a chance to reveal, while long jackets and hemlines afforded ample cover as desired. A crisp white shirt with folded cuffs was as integral to the looks as permanently crinkled fabrics, a leg-baring jacket-body suit combination as key as the trademark outerwear.

Joey King, whose latest film “Uglies” is streaming on Netflix, took front row wearing a gray cotton dress with a side cut-out.

Moschino creative director Adrian Appiolaza opened his latest collection with a blank canvas — a series of white gowns, twisted, tied and draped from crisp cotton, elaborated with ruffles, stitching and cutouts for folkloric flair.

The series was inspired by an image Appiolaza found in the archives of the late Franco Moschino draping a white sheet.

“It gave me this idea of freshness,” the designer said backstage. “Franco Moschino is always inspiring to me.”

In his third collection for the brand known for its irony, Appiolaza continued his exploration of trompe l’oeil, graphic prints and exaggerated proportions. The closing looks seemed to be caught between a little black dress, known in Italian as a tubino, and floral numbers, one worn on front, the other on back, posing the eternal dilemma: “Tubino or not to Tubino,” as written on the closing look.

Margherita Maccapani Missoni gave her new fashion baby her own, less-famous birth name, Maccapani, applying her fashion philosophy of mixing the old and new.

The Maccapani brand creates about 45 pieces a season, mostly out of versatile jersey — not just the familiar cotton version, but also jacquard and lurex. The brand aims to respond to the “needs of functionality and versatility that streetwear or athleisure respond to, but always feminine and elegant and put together,'' Maccapani Missoni said.

Her latest collection was shown in a Milan villa, with models engaged in leisure activities, putting together a puzzle, listening to music or drawing. One sang from the balcony. Missoni's mother Angela, former creative director of the Missoni fashion house, wandered through.

Maccapni is launching a storefront on E-bay with curated vintage items alongside her own collection, part of her brand concept to offer pieces — old and new — that can be integrated into a wardrobe, without dictating a style. The first drop will be on Sept. 27.

A model wears a creation as part of the Moschino Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Moschino Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Models wear creations as part of the Moschino Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Fashion designer Adrian Appiolaza acknowledges the applause at the end of the Moschino Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Models wear creations as part of the Moschino Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Moschino Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Moschino Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Models wear creations as part of the Moschino Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Moschino Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Models wear creations as part of the Moschino Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Italian fashion designer Giorgio Armani, center, acknowledges the applause at the end of the Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Italian fashion designer Giorgio Armani, center, acknowledges the applause at the end of the Emporio Armani Spring Summer 2025 collection that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Models wear creations as part of the Max Mara Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Actress Joey King attends the Max Mara Spring Summer 2025 fashion show, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

A model wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Model Vittoria Ceretti wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Model Vittoria Ceretti wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Model Irina Shayk wears a creation as part of the Max Mara Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni).

Karina arrives for the Prada Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Members of the group ENHYPEN arrive for the Prada Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Prada Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Prada Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Prada Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Prada Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Prada Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Prada Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Tina Kunakey, centre, attends the Prada Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Prada Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Prada Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Prada Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Models wear creations as part of the Prada Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Prada Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 19, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

MINNEAPOLIS (AP) — Federal agents carrying out immigration arrests in Minnesota's Twin Cities region already shaken by the fatal shooting of a woman rammed the door of one home Sunday and pushed their way inside, part of what the Department of Homeland Security has called its largest enforcement operation ever.

In a dramatic scene similar to those playing out across Minneapolis, agents captured a man in the home just minutes after pepper spraying protesters outside who had confronted the heavily armed federal agents. Along the residential street, protesters honked car horns, banged on drums and blew whistles in attempts to disrupt the operation.

Video of the clash taken by The Associated Press showed some agents pushing back protesters while a distraught woman later emerged from the house with a document that federal agents presented to arrest the man. Signed by an immigration officer, the document — unlike a warrant signed by a judge — does not authorize forced entry into a private residence. A warrant signed by an immigration officer only authorizes arrest in a public area.

Immigrant advocacy groups have conducted extensive “know-your-rights” campaigns urging people not to open their doors unless agents have a court order signed by a judge.

But within minutes of ramming the door in a neighborhood filled with single-family homes, the handcuffed man was led away.

More than 2,000 immigration arrests have been made in Minnesota since the enforcement operation began at the beginning of December, said Homeland Security spokesperson Tricia McLaughlin.

Homeland Security Secretary Kristi Noem told Fox News on Sunday that the administration would send additional federal agents to Minnesota to protect immigration officers and continue enforcement.

The Twin Cities — the latest target in President Donald Trump’s immigration enforcement campaign — is bracing for what is next after 37-year-old Renee Good was shot and killed by an immigration officer on Wednesday.

“We’re seeing a lot of immigration enforcement across Minneapolis and across the state, federal agents just swarming around our neighborhoods,” said Jason Chavez, a Minneapolis city councilmember. “They’ve definitely been out here.”

Chavez, the son of Mexican immigrants who represents an area with a growing immigrant population, said he is closely monitoring information from chat groups about where residents are seeing agents operating.

People holding whistles positioned themselves in freezing temperatures on street corners Sunday in the neighborhood where Good was killed, watching for any signs of federal agents.

More than 20,000 people have taken part in a variety of trainings to become “observers” of enforcement activities in Minnesota since the 2024 election, said Luis Argueta, a spokesperson for Unidos MN, a local human rights organization .

“It’s a role that people choose to take on voluntarily, because they choose to look out for their neighbors,” Argueta said.

The protests have been largely peaceful, but residents remained anxious. On Monday, Minneapolis public schools will start offering remote learning for the next month in response to concerns that children might feel unsafe venturing out while tensions remain high.

Many schools closed last week after Good’s shooting and the upheaval that followed.

While the enforcement activity continues, two of the state’s leading Democrats said that the investigation into Good's shooting death should not be overseen solely by the federal government.

Minneapolis Mayor Jacob Frey and U.S. Sen. Tina Smith said in separate interviews Sunday that state authorities should be included in the investigation because the federal government has already made clear what it believes happened.

“How can we trust the federal government to do an objective, unbiased investigation, without prejudice, when at the beginning of that investigation they have already announced exactly what they saw — what they think happened," Smith said on ABC’s "This Week."

The Trump administration has defended the officer who shot Good in her car, saying he was protecting himself and fellow agents and that Good had “weaponized” her vehicle.

Todd Lyons, acting director of U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement, defended the officer on Fox News Channel’s “The Sunday Briefing.”

"That law enforcement officer had milliseconds, if not short time to make a decision to save his life and his other fellow agents,” he said.

Lyons also said the administration’s enforcement operations in Minnesota wouldn't be needed “if local jurisdictions worked with us to turn over these criminally illegal aliens once they are already considered a public safety threat by the locals.”

The killing of Good by an ICE officer and the shooting of two people by federal agents in Portland, Oregon, led to dozens of protests in cities across the country over the weekend, including New York, Los Angeles, Washington D.C. and Oakland, California.

Contributing were Associated Press journalists Giovanna Dell’Orto in Minneapolis; Thomas Strong in Washington; Bill Barrow in Atlanta; Christopher Weber in Los Angeles; and John Seewer in Toledo, Ohio.

A woman gets into an altercation with a federal immigration officer as officers make an arrest Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, in Minneapolis. (AP Photo/John Locher)

A federal immigration officer deploys pepper spray as officers make an arrest Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, in Minneapolis. (AP Photo/John Locher)

A family member, center, reacts after federal immigration officers make an arrest Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, in Minneapolis. (AP Photo/John Locher)

Bystanders are treated after being pepper sprayed as federal immigration officers make an arrest Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, in Minneapolis. (AP Photo/John Locher)

A family member reacts after federal immigration officers make an arrest Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, in Minneapolis. (AP Photo/John Locher)

Federal agents look on after detaining a person during a patrol in Minneapolis, Minn., Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026. (Christopher Katsarov/The Canadian Press via AP)

Bystanders react after a man was detained by Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) agents during a traffic stop, Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, in Robbinsdale, Minn. (AP Photo/John Locher)

People stand near a memorial at the site where Renee Good was fatally shot by an ICE agent, Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, in Minneapolis. (AP Photo/Jen Golbeck)

A man looks out of a car window after being detained by Immigration and Customs Enforcement (ICE) agents during a traffic stop, Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, in Robbinsdale, Minn. (AP Photo/John Locher)

Border Patrol agents detain a man, Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, in Minneapolis. (AP Photo/Adam Gray)

People shout toward Border Patrol agents making an arrest, Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, in Minneapolis. (AP Photo/Adam Gray)

Demonstrators protest outside the White House in Washington, Saturday, Jan. 10, 2026, against the Immigration and Customs Enforcement agent who fatally shot Renee Good in Minneapolis. (AP Photo/Jose Luis Magana)

Minneapolis Mayor Jacob Frey holds a news conference on Saturday, Jan. 10, 2026, in Minneapolis. (AP Photo/Jen Golbeck)

Protesters react as they visit a makeshift memorial during a rally for Renee Good, who was fatally shot by an ICE officer earlier in the week, Saturday, Jan. 10, 2026, in Minneapolis. (AP Photo/John Locher)