Demna dials down theatrics for a more saleable vision of Balenciaga at Paris Fashion Week

PARIS (AP) — Balenciaga is no stranger to spectacle, and Demna has built his reputation on turning the ordinary into the extreme. But this season, the brand's it-designer pulled back, choosing precision over provocation. His Sunday fall collection at Paris Fashion Week, Standard, focused on familiar dress codes, subtly warped but never fully broken.

Was this a study in refinement, or — shockingly — a step toward the conventional for a man known for breaking molds?

The show took place in a dimly lit maze of black curtains at the Cour du Dôme des Invalides, giving a sense of movement without grand theatrics. The models stormed through the narrow pathways, inches from VIP guests Tyra Banks, Alessandra Ambrosio, and Jessica Alba, their stiletto-heeled stomp set to the brooding strains of Beethoven’s Moonlight Sonata.

Businesswear was the foundation, with suits that alternated between crisp and intentionally crumpled. Denim pencil skirts, laced corset shirts, and long overcoats played with structure, while cocooned hoods and exaggerated lapels introduced a sculptural quality.

The impact, however, felt restrained. Silhouettes that once enveloped the body now followed a more familiar form. Sportswear, too, was tempered—tracksuits and bombers were leaner, and denim, usually one of Demna’s most manipulated materials, was given only slight modifications, treated to appear permanently wrinkled rather than wholly reimagined.

Absent were the shock elements of past seasons—no simulated disasters, no extreme exaggerations. Instead, the focus was on subtle transformations. For some, this marked a designer refining his vision; for others, it felt like a step away from the bold statements that defined his early Balenciaga years.

The Balenciaga x PUMA collaboration underscored this shift. While undoubtedly positioned for commercial success, its straightforward execution felt at odds with Demna’s usual approach to reworking streetwear. One reaction among critics pointed to its simplicity as a move toward accessibility rather than innovation.

More than ever, this collection seemed geared toward long-term retail appeal rather than shock-driven virality. While Demna has scaled back the provocation, the emphasis on businesswear, streamlined outerwear, and luxury-inflected sportswear suggests a strategic pivot toward a more commercially viable Balenciaga. The tailoring was clean, outerwear was softened, and layers leaned into versatility.

However, although some insiders pointed out how the reversed quarter-zip added an unexpected neckline shift, and a bathrobe-style coat blended casual ease with structured elegance—neither pushed the boundaries in the way past seasons have.

The collection may have been titled Standard, but it left an open question: Is Demna reshaping Balenciaga’s future, or settling into a more commonplace standard?

Barbara Palvin upon arrival at the Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented in Paris, Sunday, March 9, 2025. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Isabeli Fontana upon arrival at the Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented in Paris, Sunday, March 9, 2025. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Dixie D'Amelio upon arrival at the Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented in Paris, Sunday, March 9, 2025. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Dixie D'Amelio upon arrival at the Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented in Paris, Sunday, March 9, 2025. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Alessandra Ambrosio upon arrival at the Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented in Paris, Sunday, March 9, 2025. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Emilia Jones upon arrival at the Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented in Paris, Sunday, March 9, 2025. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Juyeon upon arrival at the Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented in Paris, Sunday, March 9, 2025. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Dixie D'Amelio upon arrival at the Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented in Paris, Sunday, March 9, 2025. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Gabbriette upon arrival at the Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented in Paris, Sunday, March 9, 2025. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Security wait for arrivals at the Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented in Paris, Sunday, March 9, 2025. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

SAN FRANCISCO (AP) — Coach Steve Kerr spoke with Warriors forward Jonathan Kuminga during the morning shootaround Thursday about the player's situation being out of the rotation for more than a month now with expectations he will be traded before the deadline next month.

“We talked this morning and that’s all private,” Kerr said. “I will keep coaching him, he’ll be part of the team, he’ll be here. It is what it is.”

Kerr discounted any issues between them as being reason Kuminga has reportedly requested a trade from the team after not being used in the last 14 games since Dec. 18 and 17 of 18 — though he has been listed as injured for nine games this season.

“Our relationship is fine,” Kerr said before Golden State's 126-113 win over the New York Knicks. “There's not a whole lot I can say about the other stuff. It is what it is, difficult situation for everybody and part of this league, part of the job. We just keep moving forward.”

Kuminga has been training much of the time on his own, shooting on the Warriors’ practice floor out of the eyes of fans at Chase Center. He wears a black hood over his head on the end of the bench during games. Perhaps Kuminga and the Warriors weren't a great fit from Day 1 — not that it's his fault — and he might be eager to leave and start fresh elsewhere. If so, the Golden State brass might want to make sure he doesn't get hurt before trying to trade him.

Yet nobody has taken issue with his work ethic, at least not publicly. Kuminga, selected seventh overall in the 2021 draft, has been known to stay long after games shooting on the arena's main floor.

“It’s not a distraction at all. It’s a very unique situation but our job is just to keep playing, keep winning, it’ll resolve itself one way or the other,” Stephen Curry said.

The 23-year-old from the Democratic Republic of the Congo has appeared in just 18 games total with 13 starts, averaging 11.8 points, 6.2 rebounds and 2.6 assists.

On Sept. 30, he agreed to a two-year contract that could be worth up to $46.5 million if the team were to exercise its option for 2026-27. Kuminga had had a $7.9 million qualifying offer in hand since June 29 but was also weighing other options and he missed media day.

He has long had the support and confidence of teammates — like Jimmy Butler saying he has been having Kuminga over and continuing to encourage him.

“We love JK in this locker room, that's not going to change,” Butler said postgame. “If he happens to not be in here, we'll still rock with JK. I speak for everybody. We love the guy. I wish him the best here, I wish him the best wherever. It doesn't change. We don't listen to the noise, I hope he don't listen to the noise he keep coming here with a smile doing what he's supposed to do and being the ultimate pro.”

Kuminga missed much of last season with a right ankle injury. He averaged 15.3 points, 4.6 rebounds and 2.2 assists in 24.3 minutes over 47 games with 10 starts. He also scored 15.3 points per game over eight playoff games while shooting 48.4% from the floor and making 40% of his 3-point attempts. That included a career-best 30-point performance in Game 3 of the Western Conference semifinals against the Minnesota Timberwolves.

Kerr said the uncertainty around Kuminga's future “won't be a distraction.”

“Jonathan's a great young guy, his teammates like him,” Kerr said. "He's handling himself well.”

AP NBA: https://apnews.com/NBA

Golden State Warriors forward Jonathan Kuminga, middle, sits near the team bench during the first half of an NBA basketball game against the New York Knicks in San Francisco, Thursday, Jan. 15, 2026. (AP Photo/Jeff Chiu)

Golden State Warriors forward Jonathan Kuminga (1) and Utah Jazz center Oscar Tshiebwe (34) swap jerseys after the Warriors defeat the Jazz during an NBA basketball game, Saturday, Jan. 3, 2026, in San Francisco. (AP Photo/Justine Willard)