MILAN (AP) — Giorgio Armani’s admiration for other cultures and global aesthetic was on full display at his latest Emporio Armani show, but the designer himself was notably absent.
Armani, 90, skipped the customary bow at the Emporio Armani menswear preview for Spring-Summer 2026 during Milan Fashion Week on Saturday, as he recovers at home. His fashion house confirmed his convalescence in advance but did not provide details about his condition.
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A model wears a creation as part of the men's Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2026 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 21, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation as part of the men's Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2026 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 21, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation as part of the men's Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2026 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 21, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
Models wear creations as part of the men's Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2026 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 21, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation as part of the men's Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2026 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 21, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
Despite his absence, Armani was deeply involved in shaping the collection, his fashion house said, working closely with Leo Dell’Orco, his longtime menswear director, who took the final bow. Normally, Armani would have posed with the models at the end of the show — another signature moment missing.
The Emporio Armani collection carried a free-spirited, Bohemian air — a vision for the youthful adventurer who balances comfort with style, ornament with utility. Models sported braids or silver beads in their hair, and layered accessories: beaded necklaces, charms, tassels, and fringes.
Jackets ranged from softly tailored with sweeping scarf collars — ideal for wind and sun protection — to intricately detailed styles with feather-light touches or loose weaves.
Natural fabrics like crepe and linen, often left rough to the touch, contrasted with silky prints inspired by Moroccan mosaics. Trousers varied from gently pleated to dramatically ballooned, paired with long, embroidered tunics.
The traveler’s ensemble was completed with crossbody bags, tapestry duffels, vintage-style suitcases, woven slippers, and straw hats worn low over the eyes, conjuring the image of a man journeying through sun-soaked lands.
For the EA7 Emporio Armani line — his sporty offshoot — Armani leaned into more technical textiles. A desert-inspired capsule collection played out against a soundtrack of howling wind, echoing the stark and elemental feel of the clothes as the models strode through the showroom, which was decorated with sheer curtains.
The show notes described the collection as “a moment of introspection and identity. Not to pause in contemplation, but to channel new energy into moving forward, while conscious of one’s own origins.”
Armani returns to “shapes and attitudes that have always been present, returning to a founding principle of his aesthetic: A genuine interest in other cultures,’’ the notes said.
Front-row guests included Olympic champion sprinter Marcell Jacobs, actors André Lamoglia, from the Netflix series “Elite," and Michael Cooper Jr., currently starring in the Netflix series “Forever,’’ and NBA players Kawhi Leonard of the Los Angeles Clippers and Anthony Black of the Orlando Magic.
A model wears a creation as part of the men's Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2026 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 21, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation as part of the men's Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2026 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 21, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation as part of the men's Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2026 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 21, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
Models wear creations as part of the men's Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2026 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 21, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
A model wears a creation as part of the men's Emporio Armani Spring-Summer 2026 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Saturday, June 21, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)
DUBAI, United Arab Emirates (AP) — U.S. President Donald Trump said Iran wants to negotiate with Washington after his threat to strike the Islamic Republic over its bloody crackdown on protesters, a move coming as activists said Monday the death toll in the nationwide demonstrations rose to at least 544.
Iran had no immediate reaction to the news, which came after the foreign minister of Oman — long an interlocutor between Washington and Tehran — traveled to Iran this weekend. It also remains unclear just what Iran could promise, particularly as Trump has set strict demands over its nuclear program and its ballistic missile arsenal, which Tehran insists is crucial for its national defense.
Meanwhile Monday, Iran called for pro-government demonstrators to head to the streets in support of the theocracy, a show of force after days of protests directly challenging the rule of 86-year-old Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei. Iranian state television aired chants from the crowd, who shouted “Death to America!” and “Death to Israel!”
Trump and his national security team have been weighing a range of potential responses against Iran including cyberattacks and direct strikes by the U.S. or Israel, according to two people familiar with internal White House discussions who were not authorized to comment publicly and spoke on condition of anonymity.
“The military is looking at it, and we’re looking at some very strong options,” Trump told reporters on Air Force One on Sunday night. Asked about Iran’s threats of retaliation, he said: “If they do that, we will hit them at levels that they’ve never been hit before.”
Trump said that his administration was in talks to set up a meeting with Tehran, but cautioned that he may have to act first as reports of the death toll in Iran mount and the government continues to arrest protesters.
“I think they’re tired of being beat up by the United States,” Trump said. “Iran wants to negotiate.”
He added: “The meeting is being set up, but we may have to act because of what’s happening before the meeting. But a meeting is being set up. Iran called, they want to negotiate.”
Iran through country's parliamentary speaker warned Sunday that the U.S. military and Israel would be “legitimate targets” if America uses force to protect demonstrators.
More than 10,600 people also have been detained over the two weeks of protests, said the U.S.-based Human Rights Activists News Agency, which has been accurate in previous unrest in recent years and gave the death toll. It relies on supporters in Iran crosschecking information. It said 496 of the dead were protesters and 48 were with security forces.
With the internet down in Iran and phone lines cut off, gauging the demonstrations from abroad has grown more difficult. The Associated Press has been unable to independently assess the toll. Iran’s government has not offered overall casualty figures.
Those abroad fear the information blackout is emboldening hard-liners within Iran’s security services to launch a bloody crackdown. Protesters flooded the streets in the country’s capital and its second-largest city on Saturday night into Sunday morning. Online videos purported to show more demonstrations Sunday night into Monday, with a Tehran official acknowledging them in state media.
In Tehran, a witness told the AP that the streets of the capital empty at the sunset call to prayers each night. By the Isha, or nighttime prayer, the streets are deserted.
Part of that stems from the fear of getting caught in the crackdown. Police sent the public a text message that warned: “Given the presence of terrorist groups and armed individuals in some gatherings last night and their plans to cause death, and the firm decision to not tolerate any appeasement and to deal decisively with the rioters, families are strongly advised to take care of their youth and teenagers.”
Another text, which claimed to come from the intelligence arm of the paramilitary Revolutionary Guard, also directly warned people not to take part in demonstrations.
“Dear parents, in view of the enemy’s plan to increase the level of naked violence and the decision to kill people, ... refrain from being on the streets and gathering in places involved in violence, and inform your children about the consequences of cooperating with terrorist mercenaries, which is an example of treason against the country,” the text warned.
The witness spoke to the AP on condition of anonymity due to the ongoing crackdown.
The demonstrations began Dec. 28 over the collapse of the Iranian rial currency, which trades at over 1.4 million to $1, as the country’s economy is squeezed by international sanctions in part levied over its nuclear program. The protests intensified and grew into calls directly challenging Iran’s theocracy.
Nikhinson reported from aboard Air Force One.
In this frame grab from video obtained by the AP outside Iran, a masked demonstrator holds a picture of Iran's Crown Prince Reza Pahlavi during a protest in Tehran, Iran, Friday, January. 9, 2026. (UGC via AP)
In this frame grab from footage circulating on social media from Iran shows protesters taking to the streets despite an intensifying crackdown as the Islamic Republic remains cut off from the rest of the world in Tehran, Iran, Friday, Jan. 9, 2026.(UGC via AP)
In this frame grab from footage circulating on social media from Iran showed protesters once again taking to the streets of Tehran despite an intensifying crackdown as the Islamic Republic remains cut off from the rest of the world in Tehran, Iran, Saturday Jan. 10, 2026. (UGC via AP)
