Modern technology is enriching the Nanjing Yunjin weaving technique, enabling artisans to innovate while honoring their heritage, and ensuring that this stunning craft captures the imagination of new generations.
Yunjin, or Yun (Cloud) brocade, is a traditional Chinese silk brocade made in Nanjing, capital of east China's Jiangsu Province. With a history of more than 1,600 years, it is famous for its exquisite craft, elegant patterns, and smooth texture.
Currently, the Shanghai Museum is showcasing Song Dynasty (960–1279) robes replicated by the Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute.
The traditional Yunjin weaving technique is unique and uses a jacquard loom, requiring collaboration between a jacquard worker and a weaver. The jacquard worker sitting on the upper part of the loom lifts the warp threads, while the weaver down below handles the weft and applies colorful and gold threads. Even skilled weavers can produce only about five to six centimeters of the brocade a day.
The materials are exquisite, mainly silk, with substantial use of gold, silver, and copper threads, enhancing the richness and vibrancy of the fabrics.
"In addition to using silk threads naturally produced by silkworms, Yunjin also incorporates gold threads and peacock feather threads, which sets it apart from other brocades. The ability to change colors according to the patterns is a unique feature that machines currently cannot do," said Chen Cheng, a representative inheritor of the Nanjing Yunjin weaving technique.
In 2009, the Nanjing Yunjin Jacquard Hand-Weaving Technique was inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
To help more people to know about Yunjin, the Nanjing Yunjin Brocade Museum is exploring interactive technologies like virtual reality. This means that AI guides can share the rich history of Yunjin, and visitors may sit on the loom to personally experience the charm of Yunjin culture.
"The Nanjing Yunjin weaving technique reflects our Chinese wisdom, artistry, and aesthetic values, embodying various emotions in its patterns. We want to use modern technology to bring out the cultural significance of Yunjin, making its stories and heritage more accessible and allowing more people to appreciate its beauty," said He Yun'ao, director of Cultural and Natural Heritage Research Institute at Nanjing University.
Modern technology revitalizes Nanjing Yunjin weaving technique
