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Families wait in line for hours to buy masa for Christmas tamales at beloved LA grocer

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Families wait in line for hours to buy masa for Christmas tamales at beloved LA grocer
Business

Business

Families wait in line for hours to buy masa for Christmas tamales at beloved LA grocer

2025-12-24 11:36 Last Updated At:12:55

LOS ANGELES (AP) — Christina Chavarria had already prepared almost 200 tamales, but she was back at Amapola Market in Southern California early Tuesday morning for more masa.

The dough made from ground corn was the best there, so it didn't bother her that the line was wrapped around the parking lot.

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People wait in line to buy masa, a dough used to make tamales, outside Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., early Tuesday morning, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

People wait in line to buy masa, a dough used to make tamales, outside Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., early Tuesday morning, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Antonio Alvarez, 11, rests his head on a shopping cart as he and his mother wait in line to buy masa, a dough used to make tamales, at Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., early Tuesday morning, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Antonio Alvarez, 11, rests his head on a shopping cart as he and his mother wait in line to buy masa, a dough used to make tamales, at Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., early Tuesday morning, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Bags of masa, a dough used to make tamales, are stacked on a counter at Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., Tuesday, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Bags of masa, a dough used to make tamales, are stacked on a counter at Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., Tuesday, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

People wait in line to buy masa, a dough used to make tamales, outside Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., early Tuesday morning, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

People wait in line to buy masa, a dough used to make tamales, outside Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., early Tuesday morning, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Alex Diaz, left, reaches for a bag of masa, a dough used to make tamales, as shoppers wait in line at Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., Tuesday, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Alex Diaz, left, reaches for a bag of masa, a dough used to make tamales, as shoppers wait in line at Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., Tuesday, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

“It's always seasoned perfect, ready to go,” Chavarria said.

During the holiday season, tens of thousands of people head to one of three market locations in the Los Angeles area seeking the freshly produced masa that's a staple ingredient for tamales. Many Latin American families will gather to make them assembly-line style, spreading the paste on dried corn husks and filling them with sweet and savory ingredients.

Chavarria is excited to make them with her mother and 26-year-old daughter this year, who's “at that age where she doesn't always want to do stuff with me.” Her mother will bring roasted chiles from El Paso, Texas, infusing their tamales with a touch of the family heritage from Chihuahua, Mexico.

Amapola Market calls it the annual “masa pilgrimage.”

“We want them to have a good Christmas,” said CEO Rolando Pozos. “It kind of becomes more of a responsibility than a job.”

Some of the market's customers travel from as far as Bakersfield, California, or Las Vegas. Many arrive well before dawn to get in line, hours before the store opens. One group drove from Hesperia, about 60 miles (95 kilometers) away and camped overnight to be at the Downey location early Tuesday.

Pozos doesn't take the grocer's now 64-year responsibility lightly. The dough is so crucial to the holidays that in 2016, when the grocer sold masa made with the wrong corn, loyal customers declared Christmas was ruined when their tamales wouldn’t cook properly. Some people said they got sick. The company said it cut ties with the corn supplier and vowed to do better.

With his slicked back salt-and-pepper hair, Pozos is well-known to the store's regulars, doling out handshakes and personal greetings in Spanish. Pozos, himself, is a regular on local TV networks demonstrating the art of making tamales. He took charge of the company five years ago and says he's proud of keeping prices stable for the third year in a row, as families feel the pinch from inflation.

Prices matter for families that generally making hundreds of tamales at a time and need a lot of masa, said Melissa Perkins, who was waiting in line with her father. Her family has used Amapola's masa for nearly 30 years, since before she was born. The production line now includes almost two dozen siblings, nephews, aunts and uncles.

“This is my mom's favorite masa,” Perkins said.

The store sells prepared masas for savory tamales like pork and chile to sweeter versions that are pineapple and strawberry flavored. There are other uses, too, for tortillas and champurrado, a thick Mexican hot chocolate.

In the busy season, employees begin churning out bags of masa at 3 a.m. daily, producing them as quickly as they fly out the door.

In the back, cooked corn is delivered to be ground up in massive vats in combination with salt, lard, and other ingredients in industrial mixers. The bowls are lifted eight feet (2.4 meters) into the air and poured into a giant funnel that fills bags that are then double-bagged by a worker. Behind them, fresh tortillas spill out onto a conveyor belt by the hundreds.

After arriving at 4:15 a.m. in pajamas, Giselle Salazar waited with her sister and cousin, bundled up in blankets while catching up from college. Some families sent sleepy kids to hold their place in line while looking for parking blocks away, bringing chairs and snacks when they returned.

The three women were waiting again two hours later in a separate line for more pineapple masa.

“At first it was just our moms together," Salazar said. “They passed the torch down to us basically. We're the new generation of aunties.”

They had already filled up a small wagon and shopping cart with almost 100 pounds (45 kilos) of masa. Cousin Alexa Campos examined each bag carefully, exchanging one that looked watery at the bottom. Consistency is key for tamales to cook through properly, she said.

“After Christmas we're done with tamales for the rest of the year,” Campos said. “(Be)cause we make a lot and eat them for a week straight.”

As the sun rose, the line outside Amapola moved along, but more people arrived just as quickly.

Mark Monroy was passing on the tradition to his 9-year-old daughter Avery, bringing her on the masa trek for the first time. They drove 1 1/2 hours from Riverside.

Raised in the Los Angeles area, Monroy has memories of going to Amapola as a child so his family returns every year despite moving away.

“You can have a little bit of presents or maybe not even any presents for certain years, but you'll always have a tamale to unwrap,” Monroy said.

People wait in line to buy masa, a dough used to make tamales, outside Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., early Tuesday morning, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

People wait in line to buy masa, a dough used to make tamales, outside Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., early Tuesday morning, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Antonio Alvarez, 11, rests his head on a shopping cart as he and his mother wait in line to buy masa, a dough used to make tamales, at Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., early Tuesday morning, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Antonio Alvarez, 11, rests his head on a shopping cart as he and his mother wait in line to buy masa, a dough used to make tamales, at Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., early Tuesday morning, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Bags of masa, a dough used to make tamales, are stacked on a counter at Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., Tuesday, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Bags of masa, a dough used to make tamales, are stacked on a counter at Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., Tuesday, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

People wait in line to buy masa, a dough used to make tamales, outside Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., early Tuesday morning, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

People wait in line to buy masa, a dough used to make tamales, outside Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., early Tuesday morning, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Alex Diaz, left, reaches for a bag of masa, a dough used to make tamales, as shoppers wait in line at Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., Tuesday, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

Alex Diaz, left, reaches for a bag of masa, a dough used to make tamales, as shoppers wait in line at Amapola Market in Downey, Calif., Tuesday, Dec. 23, 2025. (AP Photo/Jae C. Hong)

WASHINGTON (AP) — President Donald Trump has privately discussed the possibility of firing Attorney General Pam Bondi and replacing her with Environmental Protection Agency Administrator Lee Zeldin, three people familiar with the matter told The Associated Press on Thursday.

In those conversations, Trump has discussed his ongoing frustration with Bondi over her handing of the Jeffrey Epstein files and hurdles the Justice Department has encountered in investigations into Trump’s perceived enemies, the people said. The Republican president has mentioned other candidates but has raised Zeldin’s name as recently as this week, the people said.

The people were not authorized to publicly discuss the private conversations and spoke to the AP on the condition of anonymity.

No decision has been announced, and Trump has been known to change his mind on personnel decisions.

"Attorney General Pam Bondi is a wonderful person and she is doing a good job,” Trump said in a statement produced by the White House.

Zeldin, a former Republican congressman from New York, has been publicly and privately praised by Trump, who at an event in February described him as “our secret weapon.”

Bondi, a former state attorney general in Florida and a Trump loyalist who was part of his legal team during his first impeachment case, has been in her position for more than a year. She came into office pledging that she would not play politics with the Justice Department, but she quickly started investigations of Trump foes, sparking an outcry that the law enforcement agency was being wielded as a tool of revenge to advance the president’s political and personal agenda.

She has also endured months of scrutiny over the Justice Department’s handling of the Epstein files that made her the target of angry conservatives even with her close relationship with Trump.

Under Bondi’s leadership, the department opened investigations into a string of Trump foes, including Federal Reserve Chair Jerome Powell, New York Attorney General Letitia James, former FBI Director James Comey and former CIA Director John Brennan.

The high-profile prosecutions of Comey and James were quickly thrown out by a judge who ruled that the prosecutor who brought the cases was illegally appointed. Other politically charged investigations have either been rejected by grand juries or failed to result in criminal charges.

Attorney General Pam Bondi listens during a Cabinet meeting at the White House, Thursday, March 26, 2026, in Washington. (AP Photo/Alex Brandon)

Attorney General Pam Bondi listens during a Cabinet meeting at the White House, Thursday, March 26, 2026, in Washington. (AP Photo/Alex Brandon)

President Donald Trump walks from the Blue Room to speak about the Iran war from the Cross Hall of the White House on Wednesday, April 1, 2026, in Washington. (AP Photo/Alex Brandon, Pool)

President Donald Trump walks from the Blue Room to speak about the Iran war from the Cross Hall of the White House on Wednesday, April 1, 2026, in Washington. (AP Photo/Alex Brandon, Pool)

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