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Dior's Jonathan Anderson finds his stride with a garden of earthly delights at Paris Fashion Week

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Dior's Jonathan Anderson finds his stride with a garden of earthly delights at Paris Fashion Week
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Dior's Jonathan Anderson finds his stride with a garden of earthly delights at Paris Fashion Week

2026-03-04 05:06 Last Updated At:05:20

PARIS (AP) — The sun was out over the glass-walled runway at the famed Tuileries Garden in the French capital on Tuesday, flooding Jonathan Anderson 's fall-winter 2026 collection for Dior with a golden light that invoked Impressionist paintings.

Among the celebrities at Paris Fashion Week packed into the glass walkways around the park’s octagonal basin — dotted with artificial water lilies in a nod to Monet — were Anya Taylor-Joy, Charlize Theron, Jisoo, Priyanka Chopra, Willow Smith, Emily Ratajkowski and Macaulay Culkin.

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A model wears a creation from the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Emma Da Silva)

A model wears a creation from the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Emma Da Silva)

A model wears a creation from the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Emma Da Silva)

A model wears a creation from the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Emma Da Silva)

A model wears a creation from the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Emma Da Silva)

A model wears a creation from the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Emma Da Silva)

Florence Hunt departs the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Tom Nicholson)

Florence Hunt departs the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Tom Nicholson)

Alexa Chung poses for photographers upon arrival for the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Tom Nicholson)

Alexa Chung poses for photographers upon arrival for the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Tom Nicholson)

It was a fitting mood for a collection steeped in flowers, water and the art of being seen.

The greenhouse setting turned the surrounding Parisian strollers into an unwitting audience — an idea Anderson leaned into.

He said he had been thinking about the promenade, about people who dress up to go somewhere, and about his own status as a tourist in his adopted city.

What emerged on the runway was Anderson's most coherent women’s collection for Dior to date.

Deconstructed frock coats, peplum jackets and bustle skirts arrived in candied almond shades, Chantilly lace and metallic jacquards. Shrunken blazers sat above lampshade skirts in baby-soft shearling. Sculptural knits held their shape like origami.

The floral theme was everywhere — but it was developed through silhouette and fabric rather than slapped on literally.

Crinkled cardigans recalled the corolla of a bloom. Asymmetrically fastened skirts and dresses evoked petals. Even the crystal detailing on embroidered jeans carried a botanical echo.

Anderson reprised his Donegal tweed take on the house’s legendary Bar jacket, but made it longer and looser.

The spiral cage dresses that wowed at his recent couture show returned as clouds of soft pleated fabric.

With their houndstooth dark and light checks, hand-pleated jackets and coats showed signs of trompe-l’oeil, a technique to make the object appear three-dimensional.

Dotted Swiss ruffle skirts with long trains offered a youthful riff on Christian Dior’s iconic Junon gown.

There were ivory hammered silk track pants with covered bridal buttons, jeans with ribbon embroidery and plain robe coats worn as dresses — garments rarely given the spotlight on a runway.

The celebrity turnout was intense — and so were the regal echoes.

Dior has held its shows at the Tuileries since 2020 as part of a partnership with the adjoining Louvre Museum to help restore one of the oldest public gardens in Paris — originally commissioned by Queen Catherine de’ Medici and later redesigned for Louis XIV as a place to see and be seen.

On Tuesday, Anderson's designs testified that he is steadily finding his version of that centuries-old tradition. Five collections in, the picture is getting clearer — even if the designer insists it will always remain a moving target.

A model wears a creation from the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Emma Da Silva)

A model wears a creation from the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Emma Da Silva)

A model wears a creation from the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Emma Da Silva)

A model wears a creation from the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Emma Da Silva)

A model wears a creation from the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Emma Da Silva)

A model wears a creation from the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Emma Da Silva)

Florence Hunt departs the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Tom Nicholson)

Florence Hunt departs the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Tom Nicholson)

Alexa Chung poses for photographers upon arrival for the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Tom Nicholson)

Alexa Chung poses for photographers upon arrival for the Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Women's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Tom Nicholson)

WASHINGTON (AP) — The largest U.S. diplomatic drawdown in the Middle East since the Iraq War began more than two decades ago is creating an apparently unplanned-for crisis for the Trump administration as the United States and Israel strike Iran in a widening conflict.

The State Department has been forced to close several embassies to the public, shut down at least one consulate, order the departure of embassy staff and families from at least six nations, and advise Americans in 14 countries to leave the region immediately despite the war closing major airports and causing widespread flight cancellations.

Nonetheless, the department said Tuesday that more than 9,000 Americans had safely returned from the Middle East since the weekend, many of them without government assistance, and that it was reaching out to those who have sought help.

The State Department was “securing military aircraft and charter flights for American citizens who wish to leave the Middle East,” Dylan Johnson, assistant secretary of state for public affairs, said Tuesday on X. He added that the department has been in contact with nearly 3,000 Americans wanting to leave the region or seeking information about how to depart.

Charter flights were being arranged from Jordan, Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates. In countries where airports or airspace was closed, the department said, it is organizing land travel to countries where flights are available, including Egypt and Oman.

Still, emergency reductions in embassy staffing and post closures since the strikes on Iran began on the weekend have put a severe strain on the ability to help U.S. citizens in need of assistance that might usually be considered routine. Consular services are unavailable in many places and the personnel reductions have limited crucial official engagements with allied and partner governments during the war, including in Bahrain, Jordan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Pakistan, Qatar and Saudi Arabia.

The scale of the American drawdown in the region rivals if not exceeds what was done in the run up to and the immediate aftermath of the Iraq invasion in 2003. Back then, the State Department reduced its staffing in more than a dozen countries and advised U.S. citizens to leave or seriously consider leaving countries throughout the Middle East, North Africa and South Asia from Morocco to Pakistan.

On Monday, Americans were told in a hastily drafted announcement posted on X to leave Bahrain, Egypt, Iran, Iraq, Israel, Jordan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Syria, the United Arab Emirates and Yemen even though commercial flights and other transportation have been disrupted.

Americans had been advised early Tuesday that the State Department had ordered nonessential diplomats and embassy families to leave Bahrain, Iraq, Jordan, Kuwait, Qatar and the UAE.

The embassies in Jordan, Kuwait, Lebanon and Saudi Arabia also were closed to the public Tuesday. But only one diplomatic mission — the U.S. consulate in Karachi, Pakistan — had completely suspended operations.

A drone attack on the U.S. Embassy in Riyadh caused a “limited fire,” Saudi Arabia’s Defense Ministry said.

The strike in Riyadh caused part of the embassy's roof to collapse, although there were no reported deaths or injuries to staff, according to an internal State Department memo. It said there were no deaths or injuries after two drones hit the vicinity of the embassy in Kuwait City.

Confusion was playing out around the region, raising questions about the preparations for possible military action and its impact on travel and the safety of Americans overseas, which is the State Department's primary responsibility.

“If Americans are being instructed to leave but are given no viable pathway, that suggests one of two things: The system is not being activated, or the system has atrophied,” said Shawn VanDiver, president of AfghanEvac, a group that supports Afghan nationals seeking to come to the United States after having served with U.S. forces in Afghanistan.

He noted that during the U.S. withdrawal from Afghanistan in 2021, the Biden administration had organized the evacuation of 121,000 people in a matter of days.

“Crisis response cannot be partisan,” he said. “It has to survive transitions. It has to be staffed, exercised, and protected. The oversight question is straightforward: Was the post-Afghanistan crisis response architecture sustained, or has it been weakened?”

The State Department did not immediately respond to a query about its planning for embassy and consulate staffing or providing assistance to American citizens in the event of a conflict with Iran.

The U.S. government cannot compel American citizens to leave any country. In rare circumstances, it can make it illegal for U.S. passports to be used for travel to a specific destination. The only such restriction is on North Korea. But before the strikes began, Secretary of State Marco Rubio said Friday that the restriction might also be applied to Iran.

Travel advice from the State Department, including admonitions not to visit a country or to leave it, often is not respected. Many people reside in or have close family living there and either ignore or decline to heed the advice.

There are large numbers of U.S. citizens living in or traveling throughout the Middle East. The State Department, however, refuses to offer an estimate because Americans are not required to report their presence in any country abroad. It says any estimate would be inaccurate.

Tens of thousands of U.S. citizens, many of them dual nationals, are believed to live in Israel, Lebanon, Egypt and Iran.

Smoke rises from Israeli airstrikes in Dahiyeh, a southern suburb of Beirut, Lebanon, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Hussein Malla)

Smoke rises from Israeli airstrikes in Dahiyeh, a southern suburb of Beirut, Lebanon, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Hussein Malla)

Police officers fire tear gas shells to disperse Shiite Muslims marching toward U.S. Embassy during a rally to condemn the killing of Iranian Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, in Islamabad, Pakistan, Sunday, March 1, 2026. (AP Photo/M.A. Sheikh)

Police officers fire tear gas shells to disperse Shiite Muslims marching toward U.S. Embassy during a rally to condemn the killing of Iranian Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, in Islamabad, Pakistan, Sunday, March 1, 2026. (AP Photo/M.A. Sheikh)

People arrive at the International Airport in Frankfurt, Germany, after being evacuated from Dubai on a commercial flight, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Michael Probst)

People arrive at the International Airport in Frankfurt, Germany, after being evacuated from Dubai on a commercial flight, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. (AP Photo/Michael Probst)

Security forces fire tear gas to disperse a protest against U.S. and Israeli attacks on Iran, at a bridge leading to the fortified Green Zone where the U.S. Embassy is located in Baghdad, Sunday, March 1, 2026. (AP Photo/Hadi Mizban)

Security forces fire tear gas to disperse a protest against U.S. and Israeli attacks on Iran, at a bridge leading to the fortified Green Zone where the U.S. Embassy is located in Baghdad, Sunday, March 1, 2026. (AP Photo/Hadi Mizban)

Smoke rises up behind Azadi, or freedom tower, following a U.S.-Israeli military strike in Tehran, Iran, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. ((Davoud Ghahrdar/ISNA via AP)

Smoke rises up behind Azadi, or freedom tower, following a U.S.-Israeli military strike in Tehran, Iran, Tuesday, March 3, 2026. ((Davoud Ghahrdar/ISNA via AP)

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