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Inside Malaysia's gambit to make its pungent durian the most wanted

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Inside Malaysia's gambit to make its pungent durian the most wanted
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Inside Malaysia's gambit to make its pungent durian the most wanted

2026-09-28 10:22 Last Updated At:10:51

KUALA LUMPUR, Malaysia (AP) — Malaysia is pushing to take durian, whose powerful smell delights its lovers and repels its haters, beyond its roadside stalls and family orchards to convince fans of the spiky fruit that its varieties are worth seeking out.

Devotees savor durians like wine. For Malaysian ones, the taste of their rich and creamy flesh varies widely across types. Some are prized for their sweet custard and fruity notes, others for a hint of bitterness, an alcohol tinge or even a peanut butter flavor.

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A worker livestreams while selling durians at a durian stall in Petaling Jaya, on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Monday, June 22, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

A worker livestreams while selling durians at a durian stall in Petaling Jaya, on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Monday, June 22, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

Workers unload durians at a durian farm collection point early morning in Karak, Pahang state in Malaysia, Tuesday, June 23, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

Workers unload durians at a durian farm collection point early morning in Karak, Pahang state in Malaysia, Tuesday, June 23, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

Founder Edison Ang explaining history of Durian at KLDEX (Kuala Lumpur Durian Experience Centre) in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Friday, June 26, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

Founder Edison Ang explaining history of Durian at KLDEX (Kuala Lumpur Durian Experience Centre) in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Friday, June 26, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

Visitors selecting durian during a tasting session at KLDEX (Kuala Lumpur Durian Experience Centre) in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Friday, June 26, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

Visitors selecting durian during a tasting session at KLDEX (Kuala Lumpur Durian Experience Centre) in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Friday, June 26, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

A customer poses beside a giant durian display at a durian stall in Petaling Jaya, on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Monday, June 22, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

A customer poses beside a giant durian display at a durian stall in Petaling Jaya, on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Monday, June 22, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

Malaysians' efforts to elevate the industry can be found in the capital, Kuala Lumpur, at a center devoted exclusively to the fruit and the growing variety of products made from it.

At the Kuala Lumpur Durian Experience Centre, near the landmark Petronas Twin Towers, visitors venture into a replica durian orchard to discover the fruit’s culture and history. In another room, a theater show draws laughter. Downstairs, visitors enjoy platters and egg tarts crafted from it.

Launched this summer after an investment of nearly $2 million, the two-story center spans about 1,900 square meters (20,450 square feet) and is open daily. Its durian shop welcomes guests from morning to midnight.

Its founder, Edison Ang, said the center targets both local customers and tourists, especially those from China, the world's biggest durian importer. He said Chinese palates have long been influenced by Thai durian culture.

“What we actually hope for now is not to get people who don’t eat durian to start eating durian," he said. “Instead, we hope consumers who are already eating durian from other countries will switch to Malaysian durian.”

In 2025, China imported 1.87 million tonnes of fresh durian worth $7.5 billion, with volume jumping over six times in the past decade, according to its customs data.

Thailand’s earlier entry helped it secure over half that market by value in 2025. Malaysia, which began exporting fresh durian to China in 2024, was dwarfed. But for the first half of 2026, the value of China's fresh durian imports from Malaysia quadrupled compared with the same period last year, pointing to rapid growth.

Unlike their rivals, Malaysian growers typically do not harvest early, instead collecting only naturally ripened fruit caught in nets or ropes as they fall.

That’s the industry’s biggest advantage and also its biggest weakness, Ang said, as sellers have to race against time because the fruit’s shelf life is at most two to three days. Any delays would affect its quality. When his stock got held up for several days during customs checks, his refund rate climbed, he said.

Durian sales are also sensitive to economic conditions, said Leron Yee, founder of DKing, whose business covers both export and domestic markets. When the Chinese economy performs well, his business improves, but if the buying power of Chinese consumers falls, he needs to find alternative markets, he said.

“It is a luxury, not a necessity,” he said.

Businesses are finding opportunities in what the fruit can become. Yee's business sells durian paste, durian-flavored chocolate and mochi — and even mooncakes ahead of the Mid-Autumn Festival.

DurianBB founder Adrian Choy's company offers durian ice cream, desserts and dried durian at a cafe, alongside coffee flavored with the Musang King variety and other items. His brand also offers guided farm tours.

In July, Choy's brand went a step further and launched a durian flower perfume that smells sweet and floral.

Choy said branching into other products is important because it will add value to the food itself and differentiate his business, even when others compete on price.

“Food is food,” he said. “You cannot sell it like 50% more because your branding is different."

Across China, durian specialty shops have mushroomed, with some specializing in Malaysian varieties. In Beijing, the Jiang Sir durian shop sells platters priced roughly between 300 and 1,000 yuan (about $44 to $150), depending on the weight of the pulp and the varieties chosen.

Its employee, Hou Yuxin, welcomed the growing number of similar shops and brushed off pressure from competition, saying it would help boost the market for Malaysian durians. She noted many people now want to enjoy durians during their trips to Malaysia.

Back at Ang’s center in Kuala Lumpur, Henry Zhang was one of them. Zhang, a visitor from Shanghai who started eating durian during his university days, saw a durian no bigger than his palm for the first time.

He said Malaysian ones were creamier than those from Thailand and had different flavors. He was impressed by the center offering more than just the fruit.

“I may still eat durians from other countries. But after eating them, I may miss Malaysian ones even more,” Zhang said.

Associated Press photographer Vincent Thian and video journalists Olivia Zhang and Wu Jia in Beijing contributed to this report.

A worker livestreams while selling durians at a durian stall in Petaling Jaya, on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Monday, June 22, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

A worker livestreams while selling durians at a durian stall in Petaling Jaya, on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Monday, June 22, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

Workers unload durians at a durian farm collection point early morning in Karak, Pahang state in Malaysia, Tuesday, June 23, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

Workers unload durians at a durian farm collection point early morning in Karak, Pahang state in Malaysia, Tuesday, June 23, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

Founder Edison Ang explaining history of Durian at KLDEX (Kuala Lumpur Durian Experience Centre) in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Friday, June 26, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

Founder Edison Ang explaining history of Durian at KLDEX (Kuala Lumpur Durian Experience Centre) in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Friday, June 26, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

Visitors selecting durian during a tasting session at KLDEX (Kuala Lumpur Durian Experience Centre) in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Friday, June 26, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

Visitors selecting durian during a tasting session at KLDEX (Kuala Lumpur Durian Experience Centre) in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Friday, June 26, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

A customer poses beside a giant durian display at a durian stall in Petaling Jaya, on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Monday, June 22, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

A customer poses beside a giant durian display at a durian stall in Petaling Jaya, on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Monday, June 22, 2026. (AP Photo/Vincent Thian)

NEW YORK (AP) — Taylor Swift broke records at the 2026 MTV Video Music Awards, as she is known to do.

The pop powerhouse received the inaugural Artist Director Honors on Sunday night, becoming the most-awarded artist in VMA history.

Previously, she was tied with Beyoncé for the title, with 30 VMAs each. The new award is meant to recognize artists “whose work behind the camera has expanded the possibilities of music video and advanced the art of visual storytelling."

“I got to start making music videos and being a part of music videos 20 years ago,” Swift said in her speech, adding that she's been involved in making roughly 60 music videos, 18 of which she wrote and directed.

“You, the fans, make it so much fun,” she said.

She also took home the top prize of the night — video of the year — for “The Fate of Ophelia" from her album “The Life of a Showgirl.”

Swift dedicated that award to the “ultimate showgirl,” the late Dolly Parton.

“I think we were all very lucky to share this planet with Dolly Parton for a time," Swift said.

Swift also debuted the music video for her new song, “Patient Zero,” during the award show. She directed the visual, which stars Colin Farrell and Dakota Johnson. Johnson and Swift portray mirror images of each other.

“Patient Zero” is also her first single since marrying Kansas City Chiefs tight end Travis Kelce at Madison Square Garden in July.

The two-hour show was broadcast live on CBS from the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles.

“It's mother," were the first words uttered by Madonna as she opened the VMAs with her 2026 single “Bring Your Love" alongside collaborator Sabrina Carpenter. Later in the night, the pair won the award for best collaboration for the song.

“It’s been a while since I did one of these things,” Madonna joked. “So, I’ve prepared nothing.”

When it came time for her return to the stage to accept the award for artist of the year, Madonna began with, “First of all, I would like to thank my fingers because I can always count on them.” Returning a third time to accept for best dance, she said simply, "I came alive on the dance floor. ... We’re all equal on the dance floor.”

If her aim was to bring the dance floor to the award show stage, Madonna did exactly that in her opening number — and then some, when Charli xcx emerged from a club bathroom to perform their reworked version of “Danceteria.” Around them? A trove of dancers and various famous friends, including actor Debi Mazar, Sombr and Julia Garner.

The show, which was delayed 20 minutes by a tight NFL game, wasted no time getting heart rates up.

Snoop Dogg, a 13-time VMAs nominee and three-time winner, emerged as host shortly thereafter.

“Now that is an icon,” Dogg said of Madonna, before pivoting to a joke: “She ain't a virgin no more.”

Teyana Taylor then presented the first award for best pop to LISA for “Dream,” featuring Kentaro Sakaguchi.

“Thank you MTV for this amazing award,” she said while holding back tears. “All those late-night dreams brought me here today.” It was a different scene about an hour later, when she returned to the stage for her hip-hop heavy hitter “Sawadika,” which loosely translates to “Hello” in her native Thai.

There was always going to be a big musical tribute to Dolly Parton. Kacey Musgraves paid homage to the late, great country music icon with a cover of Parton’s “I Will Always Love You.”

Parton, whose soaring vibrato vocals, poignant songwriting and sparkling costumes defined her rise from a log cabin in the Tennessee mountains to the height of stardom and acclaim, died in Nashville of cancer in August. She was 80.

Performances arrived fast and furious: Raye delivered a medley of her throwback soul, including “I Will Overcome” and “Where Is My Husband!”

Bruno Mars slowed things down with “Dance With Me.” Shaboozey launched into his saloon single “Cowgirl,” before being joined by Gunna for some hybrid country-rap with their crossover track, “High Noon.”

“Survivor” host Jeff Probst and actor Brandon Sklenar introduced the final performance of the night and arguably its best – a partial reenactment of GENER8ION and Yung Lean’s "STORM" music video – which began with Lean smashing a VMA ‘Moon person’ trophy.

Sienna Spiro belted out her “Great Expectation.” It was a welcome introduction to the new talent, who was named best new artist shortly thereafter.

Orville Peck introduced a tribute to George Michael, who died 10 years ago on Christmas Day. He was 53.

If this year's VMAs felt too pop-heavy for some viewers, that changed when the coveted Video Vanguard Award was awarded to Nirvana.

“They were completely original and always fearless at a time when the status quo kind of got to the point of being formulaic,” Public Enemy rapper Chuck D said of the grunge greats.

The award was presented to surviving members Krist Novoselic, Dave Grohl and Pat Smear. Frontman Kurt Cobain died in 1994.

“Kurt was one of one,” Novoselic said in their acceptance speech, adding that the band never imagined its sound and aesthetic would resonate with so many people. He said the music continues to endure because people are still hungry for “something real, something uncompromising” and a message that “it’s just OK to come as you are.”

For more coverage of this year’s MTV Video Music Awards, visit https://apnews.com/hub/mtv-video-music-awards

Troye Sivan, left, and Charli xcx present the award for best dance during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

Troye Sivan, left, and Charli xcx present the award for best dance during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

Yung Lean performs "Storm II" during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

Yung Lean performs "Storm II" during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

Lisa accepts the award for best pop for "Dream feat. Kentaro Sakaguchi" during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello) CORRECTION: Corrects name to Kentaro, instead of Kentara

Lisa accepts the award for best pop for "Dream feat. Kentaro Sakaguchi" during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello) CORRECTION: Corrects name to Kentaro, instead of Kentara

Taylor Swift accepts the MTV VMA Artist Director Honors award during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

Taylor Swift accepts the MTV VMA Artist Director Honors award during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

David Grohl, from left, Krist Novoselic, and Pat Smear of Nirvana accept the video vanguard award during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

David Grohl, from left, Krist Novoselic, and Pat Smear of Nirvana accept the video vanguard award during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

Shaboozey performs during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

Shaboozey performs during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

RAYE, center, performs "Where is my husband!!" during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

RAYE, center, performs "Where is my husband!!" during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

LISA arrives at the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

LISA arrives at the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

Teyana Taylor presents the award for best pop during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

Teyana Taylor presents the award for best pop during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

Lisa accepts the award for best pop for "Dream feat. Kentara Sakaguchi" during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

Lisa accepts the award for best pop for "Dream feat. Kentara Sakaguchi" during the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (AP Photo/Chris Pizzello)

Sombr arrives at the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

Sombr arrives at the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

PinkPantheress arrives at the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

PinkPantheress arrives at the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

Charli xcx arrives at the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

Charli xcx arrives at the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

Adam Lambert arrives at the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

Adam Lambert arrives at the MTV Video Music Awards on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026, at the Peacock Theater in Los Angeles. (Photo by Jordan Strauss/Invision/AP)

Madonna appears at The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute benefit gala in New York on May 5, 2025, left, and Taylor Swift appears at the MTV Video Music Awards in Elmont, N.Y., on Sept. 11, 2024. (Photos by Evan Agostini/Invision/AP, File)

Madonna appears at The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute benefit gala in New York on May 5, 2025, left, and Taylor Swift appears at the MTV Video Music Awards in Elmont, N.Y., on Sept. 11, 2024. (Photos by Evan Agostini/Invision/AP, File)

FILE - A statue of the MTV Moon Man appears on the red carpet at the MTV Video Music Awards on Aug. 20, 2018, in New York. (Photo by Charles Sykes/Invision/AP, File)

FILE - A statue of the MTV Moon Man appears on the red carpet at the MTV Video Music Awards on Aug. 20, 2018, in New York. (Photo by Charles Sykes/Invision/AP, File)

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