【雲上嶺南】Revisit the Glory of Cantonese Cuisine with Its Old Recipes
在泛黃的菜譜中重溫粵菜舊日榮光
Morning tea is a symbolic symbol of Guangzhou's food culture and a profound urban memory. Erli House, the ancestor of Canton Tea House, appeared as early as the Xianfeng and Tongzhi years of the Qing Dynasty. Later, the exquisite tea house appeared, and its consumers were still mainly middle and lower class people. In the late Qing Dynasty, the first decent teahouse 「Sanyuan House」 was set up in Shisanhang. Then, Tao Tao Ju, Lu Yu Ju, Yi Xiang Ju and other stately teahouses appeared in Guangzhou one after another. Dim Sum Deport became popular since then. These memories of Guangzhou food that possess a sense of history can still be recalled in the old recipes today.
早茶,是廣州鮮活的飲食文化符號和深刻的城市記憶。廣式茶樓的鼻祖二厘館早在清朝咸豐、同治年間就出現了,後來,比二厘館講究的茶居出現了,茶客仍以中下層民眾為主。到了晚清,第一家像樣的茶樓「三元樓」在十三行興辦,陶陶居、陸羽居、怡香居等茶樓也相繼在廣州興起,「一盅兩件」自此風行。這些帶有溫度的廣州美食記憶,時至今日在一張張泛黃的菜譜中依然能夠重溫。