Kamali's sophomore show for Chloé in Paris dazzled with lightness

PARIS (AP) — Chemena Kamali’s sophomore collection for Chloé was a luminous exploration of femininity, blending the house’s heritage with a fresh, sensual energy for spring. Set against a backdrop of sun-faded apricots, blushes and soft whites, the Paris collection captured Kamali’s vision of a summer that she surmised as: “when you pause, escape, explore and recharge.” It celebrated Chloé’s free-spirited DNA, infused with a lightness that felt both nostalgic and forward-looking.

Here are some highlights of Thursday's shows at Paris Fashion Week, including a French honor for Naomi Campbell:

“There’s a liberating expression of total freedom,” Kamali said of her spring display.

This freedom flowed through silk charmeuse gowns, lingerie-inspired crop tops and peek-a-boo designs.

Echoes of Karl Lagerfeld’s '70s Chloé lingered in exaggerated shoulders and standout pieces, like a loose-fitting, vivid blue coat. “Chloé is not a passing moment; it’s an eternal state of mind,” Kamali noted, grounding her collection in the house’s long-standing ethos of optimism and instinct.

Layering played a central role, but Kamali kept it light and intuitive, reflecting what she called a “very personal way of dressing.” Sheer fabrics and sun-worn lace mixed effortlessly with ribbed jerseys, creating looks that felt weightless and spontaneous, a signature of Kamali’s debut collection. “What matters to me is the feeling and intuition,” she said.

A standout moment came in the form of a dramatic trapeze-shaped silk gown, its dynamic silhouette swirling with movement. It epitomized Kamali’s ability to honor Chloé’s romantic roots while infusing a modern sensibility. “The mood is light, weightless, sensual and joyful,” she explained. That joyful freedom was a defining thread from start to finish.

With her second outing, Kamali proved she is the right designer to lead Chloé. She crafted a spring collection that balanced nostalgia and sensuality while pushing the house toward a bright, optimistic future.

Casey Cadwallader delivered a striking show for Mugler, equal parts theatrical and innovative. The hair, sculpted into harsh fringes like a viper’s fang, set the tone for a collection defined by sharp architectural lines. Curving lapels adorned tight jackets, while tendrils of latticed silk flowed into skirts that bled vibrant yellows, creating a visual spectacle.

The collection boldly embraced femininity, featuring a bust that echoed the form of seashells and a densely packed bustier resembling a diving whale. This daring aesthetic aligns with Cadwallader’s aim to infuse the brand with a fresh energy, moving away from the extravagance that some original Mugler fans long for.

Oversized tubular arms complemented a webbed skirt-coat, while a transparent loose trench evoked the look of a sea medusa, reinforcing Cadwallader’s commitment to pushing boundaries.

Iconic British model Naomi Campbell was awarded a prestigious honor in France, being named a knight in the Order of Arts and Letters at the culture ministry for her significant contributions to French culture.

However, this recognition comes as Campbell faces scrutiny back home, having been barred from serving as a charity trustee in England and Wales for five years. This decision follows a three-year investigation into the financial activities of her charity, “Fashion for Relief,” which was found to have been “poorly governed” and lacking in “adequate financial management.”

The Charity Commission, which oversees charities in England and Wales, reported multiple instances of misconduct, revealing that only 8.5% of the charity’s expenditures went to charitable grants over a six-year period from 2016. Notably, the inquiry uncovered that charity funds were misused for Campbell’s luxury hotel stays during events in Cannes, alongside personal expenses such as spa treatments and room service.

In response to a question from the AP, Campbell said, “I’ve just found out today about the findings and I am extremely concerned. We are investigating on our side. I was not in control of my charity; I put the control in the hands of a legal employer. We are investigating to find out what and how, and everything I do and every penny I ever raised goes to charity.”

Alongside Campbell, fellow trustee Bianka Hellmich has been disqualified for nine years after receiving unauthorized payments for consultancy services, while trustee Veronica Chou has been barred for four years. The charity, founded in 2005 to unite the fashion industry in addressing global poverty, was dissolved earlier this year, having raised over $15 million for various causes worldwide.

Despite the controversy, Campbell’s honor in France highlights her lasting impact on the cultural landscape.

At Thursday’s show at the Palais de Tokyo, Rick Owens unleashed a captivating spectacle that felt like a dramatic descent into a realm inhabited by gothic aliens. The atmosphere was thick with smoke and suspense as an army of biblical figures marched out in impressive diagonal formations, their asymmetrical knee-high leather boots featuring translucent heels, making each step a statement.

Owens’ trademark angular, alien-like geometric shoulders dominated the runway, capturing the essence of his singular vision—one that merges dark romanticism with avant-garde aesthetics. The collection was a testament to his ability to blend his gothic instincts with a sense of reverent irreverence, reminiscent of the “delicate time” he referenced in previous collections, where beauty and horror coexist.

As the show unfolded, a billowing coven emerged, clad in oversized black priest-like hoods and flowing tulle cloaks that draped elegantly over their forms. Some models donned discreet headscarves, striking a balance between reverence and defiance, perfectly embodying Owens’ commentary on societal norms. This juxtaposition echoes his commitment to inclusivity, presenting a vision of fashion that celebrates diversity while challenging conventional beauty standards.

The intricate craftsmanship used in the collection exemplified Owens’ mastery. Each piece, from the cloaks to the striking silhouettes, invited viewers to appreciate humble fabrics. This aligns with his insistence that he presents “the most excellent aesthetics” possible, recognizing the nuanced interplay between the dark and the light in our world.

While some may find Owens’ aesthetic too avant-garde or even gloomy, this show reaffirmed his position as a provocative force in fashion. The theatricality and elaborate design remind us of his role as one of the last independent designers in Paris, navigating the complexities of the fashion landscape with fierce authenticity.

Associated Press journalist Marine Lesprit contributed to this report.

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Marina Ruy Barbosa the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Adriana Lima, left, speaks with a security guard upon departure from the Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Balmain Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Wednesday, Sept. 25, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Designer Chemena Kamali accepts applause after the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Designer Chemena Kamali accepts applause after the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Diane Kruger, from left, Anna Wintour and Sienna Miller attend the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chloe Spring/Summer 2025 collection presented Thursday, Sept. 26, 2024, in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

DUBAI, United Arab Emirates (AP) — Iran's supreme leader insisted Saturday that “rioters must be put in their place” after a week of protests that have shaken the Islamic Republic, likely giving security forces a green light to aggressively put down the demonstrations.

The first comments by 86-year-old Ayatollah Ali Khamenei come as violence surrounding the demonstrations sparked by Iran's ailing economy has killed at least 10 people. The protests show no sign of stopping and follow U.S. President Donald Trump warning Iran on Friday that if Tehran “violently kills peaceful protesters,” the United States “will come to their rescue.”

While it remains unclear how and if Trump will intervene, his comments sparked an immediate, angry response, with officials within the theocracy threatening to target American troops in the Mideast. They also take on new importance after Trump said Saturday that the U.S. military captured Venezuelan President Nicolás Maduro, a longtime ally of Tehran.

The protests, have become the biggest in Iran since 2022, when the death of 22-year-old Mahsa Amini in police custody triggered nationwide demonstrations. However, the protests have yet to be as widespread and intense as those surrounding the death of Amini, who was detained over not wearing her hijab, or headscarf, to the liking of authorities.

Speaking to an audience in Tehran, state television aired remarks by Khamenei that sought to separate the concerns of protesting Iranians upset about the rial's collapse to “rioters.”

“We talk to protesters, the officials must talk to them,” Khamenei said. “But there is no benefit to talking to rioters. Rioters must be put in their place.”

He also reiterated a claim constantly made by officials in Iran, that foreign powers like Israel or the United States were pushing the protests, without offering any evidence. He also blamed “the enemy” for Iran's collapsing rial.

“A bunch of people incited or hired by the enemy are getting behind the tradesmen and shopkeepers and chanting slogans against Islam, Iran and the Islamic Republic," he said. "This is what matters most.”

Two deaths overnight into Saturday involved a new level of violence. In Qom, home to the country's major Shiite seminaries, a grenade exploded, killing a man there, the state-owned IRAN newspaper reported. It quoted security officials alleging the man was carrying the grenade to attack people in the city, some 130 kilometers (80 miles) south of the capital, Tehran.

Online videos from Qom purportedly showed fires in the street overnight.

The second death happened in the town of Harsin, some 370 kilometers (230 miles) southwest of Tehran. There, the newspaper said, a member of the Basij, the all-volunteer arm of Iran's paramilitary Revolutionary Guard, died in a gun and knife attack in the town in Kermanshah province.

Demonstrations have reached over 100 locations in 22 of Iran’s 31 provinces, the U.S.-based Human Rights Activists News Agency reported.

Iran’s civilian government under reformist President Masoud Pezeshkian has been trying to signal it wants to negotiate with protesters. However, Pezeshkian has acknowledged there is not much he can do as Iran’s rial has rapidly depreciated. That sparked the initial protests.

The protests, taking root in economic issues, have heard demonstrators chant against Iran’s theocracy as well. Tehran has had little luck in propping up its economy in the months since its June war with Israel in which the U.S. also bombed Iranian nuclear sites in Iran.

Iran recently said it was no longer enriching uranium at any site in the country, trying to signal to the West that it remains open to potential negotiations over its atomic program to ease sanctions. However, those talks have yet to happen as Trump and Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu have warned Tehran against reconstituting its atomic program.

In this photo released by an official website of the office of the Iranian supreme leader, Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei speaks in a meeting, in Tehran, Iran, Saturday, Jan. 3, 2026. (Office of the Iranian Supreme Leader via AP)

In this photo released by the official website of the office of the Iranian supreme leader, Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei attends a meeting, in Tehran, Iran, Saturday, Jan. 3, 2026. (Office of the Iranian Supreme Leader via AP)

FILE - In this photo released by an official website of the office of the Iranian supreme leader, Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei speaks in a ceremony to mark the Shiite holiday of Eid al-Ghadir, in Tehran, Iran, Tuesday, June 25, 2024. (Office of the Iranian Supreme Leader via AP, File)