Chengdu, a southwestern Chinese city renowned for its laid-back lifestyle and vibrant culinary scene, is emerging as a key player in China's coffee culture.
The city is now home to a thriving independent coffee market, with unique brews and passionate entrepreneurs driving creativity and growing appreciation for local flavors.
China's coffee market is projected to surpass 220 billion yuan (about 30 billion U.S. dollars) this year. While in Chengdu, coffee-related enterprises surged to about 9,123 in 2023, with the number of independent cafés ranking second nationally, trailing only Shanghai.
The growth has highlighted significant opportunities for cafe owners like Wang Zifeng, the owner of a coffee shop called "Rebellion Beans."
Wang's shop is in Chengdu's Yunlin Neighborhood in the heart of Chengdu's old city. The area has historically been a hub for local artists, musicians, poets, and architects. It is now at the forefront of a quiet revolution that blends artistic traditions with modern culture, including such independent cafes -- once a niche market but now also flourishing in this area.
Wang, who studied engineering in Ireland and worked there as an architect, is part of a circle of friends of entrepreneurs drawn to Chengdu's booming coffee culture.
Despite initial resistance from his parents, who did not support his entrepreneurial ambitions, Wang pursued his passion.
"My dad hadn't even sent me a message for almost half a year. He doesn't understand why I started acting up after turning 30. And my mom said, 'Why is your adolescence only starting now'?," he said.
His journey began in Ireland, where he attended a coffee workshop and was introduced to Chinese coffee, specifically from the southwestern province of Yunnan, China's main coffee-producing region. This experience inspired him to move back to China and open a shop in Chengdu that focuses exclusively on Yunnan coffee beans.
Wang described the unique flavor profile of Yunnan coffee as many fruits, also one of his reasons to choose those coffee beans.
"If I were to describe it now, I'd say it has notes of red wine, passion fruit, tropical fruits, with a strong aftertaste. But back then, all I could think was, huh? Why does it taste so different?" said Wang.
According to Xu Depeng, a producer working on coffee geography projects at the Chinese National Geography, Chengdu's comfortable, laid-back atmosphere and its culinary culture is one of its biggest attactions.
"Chengdu, known as the 'Land of Abundance' in everyone's impression, is famous for its comfortable, laid-back vibe and its culinary culture. So whether it's locals or people visiting from other places, food and drink are always key considerations for them. This has created tremendous opportunities for Chengdu's coffee market," said Xu.
Innovative ways to make coffee are constantly giving the industry a facelift. For instance, some cafés sell coffee beans by the gram and use conveyor belts to grind and brew them, mimicking a factory assembly line. Others experiment with unique flavors, such as garlic-flavored coffee, to attract customers.
Wang's shop, Rebellion Beans, has also garnered a loyal customer base that supports his mission to promote Yunnan coffee.
"The majority of China's coffee market is dominated by foreign coffee brands. But domestically, we have Yunnan, a major coffee bean-producing province, which has largely been overlooked. So seeing a shop like this is actually quite touching," said Yin Zeming, a local customer.
Independent cafés in Chengdu underscore brewing economic vitality in China
