Chanel stages a grand bow to the future, as Naomi Campbell speaks about the legacy of diversity

PARIS (AP) — By all logic, Chanel should be floundering. A global juggernaut without a captain, the house has been in limbo since the abrupt departure of Virginie Viard, drifting toward an uncertain horizon while awaiting the arrival of Matthieu Blazy in the fall.

Yet against all odds, inside the majestic Grand Palais, Chanel did what it has done for a century: endure. And not just endure. Dazzle.

The Paris Fashion Week fall show on Tuesday unfolded beneath a colossal swirling black ribbon, an audacious centerpiece that coiled toward the ceiling, defiant and theatrical. It was a collection that could have been a placeholder lost in transition. Instead, it was sterling — refined, exacting and utterly Chanel.

The front row was a collision of fashion royalty and Hollywood power. Naomi Campbell, Riley Keough, and Charlotte Casiraghi led the pack, joined by actresses Dakota Fanning and Simone Ashley, while music sensations Raye and AP Dhillon underscored Chanel’s cross-generational and global appeal.

Many looks were framed by a layer of sheer silk — flowing blouses draped over jackets, tulle overlays that subtly distorted the lines of traditional tweed tailoring, and diaphanous flounced capes that floated above classic Chanel silhouettes.

This interplay of transparency and structure gave the collection an airy, dreamlike quality. Matte satin ribbon trimmed a military-inspired anthracite tweed jacket, while pretty bows secured balloon sleeves on a sheer black organza tunic top. A trio of dresses featured a fluttering ribbon print tracing the brand’s signature interlocking Cs.

Allover looks played with superpositions of the same fabric, creating surrealist effects: a cherry red tweed jacket, wrap skirt and flared pants appeared alongside matching accessories like a boater hat, gloves and boots. By blending light, illusionary fabrics with bold statement pieces, Chanel underscored its mastery of craftsmanship and innovative design.

One accessory stole the show: a giant pearl handbag, appearing across multiple looks and drawing instant snapping. Alongside the monochromatic elegance, there were flashes of color — red tweed, bright silk linings and surrealist layering, an echo of Karl Lagerfeld ’s high-energy collections.

In an interview with The Associated Press, Campbell, a longtime Chanel icon, reflected on the show’s nostalgic '90s influences. “I love the artisan, the workmanship. They go back and look into the history of the DNA of the brand —that’s what they think of first and foremost. And then they create it, but with that twist on it. This show for me had a lot of things that reminded me of the 90s, and I loved the silhouettes, the skirt, the jacket, the skirt and pants together. Everything was very wearable.”

She also reminisced about her friend, the late Lagerfeld, whose vision defined Chanel for decades. “I really miss his honesty,” she said. “He had a soft spot, but he never sugarcoated anything. We always worked at night, and sometimes he’d tell me to stay over. It was such an incredible time. His presence is still felt, always.”

Beyond the clothes, Campbell emphasized Chanel’s strides in diversity. Last year, Lupita Nyong’o was named a house ambassador, further solidifying Chanel’s commitment to representation: “I have such respect for Chanel for being the first luxury brand to go to sub-Saharan Africa, to Dakar, which I got to witness."

The house had a landmark Métiers d’Art show in Dakar in 2022, the first time a major luxury brand staged a show in the region. It launched an ongoing cultural exchange program. It wasn’t just a one-time event. Chanel has continued its engagement by bringing students to Paris and sending artisans to Senegal, fostering a creative dialogue.

“That, to me, is action,” Campbell said, smiling. “I’m really proud that I got to witness that in my lifetime in this business."

She has been vocal about the racism she has faced throughout her modeling career. Despite her prominence, she often received fewer advertising assignments than her white counterparts and was not signed by a cosmetics company until 1999. In 1991, she said, “I may be considered one of the top models in the world, but in no way do I make the same money as any of them.”

Over the years, she has used her platform to push for greater diversity, co-founding the Diversity Coalition to hold the industry accountable for its lack of representation.

Times, it seems, are changing. Slowly but surely.

Elvis Presley ’s granddaughter and “Daisy Jones & The Six” star Riley Keough, who famously swung in a giant bird cage at a recent Chanel show, jumped up from her front row seat to share her excitement about being a brand ambassador. “It’s amazing. I feel so lucky to be involved with the house,” she said.

When asked about her personal style and whether it was influenced by her grandfather, she acknowledged a love for less traditionally feminine silhouettes: “I typically go for something a little more androgynous.”

Keough also spoke about her role as the custodian of Graceland, Elvis Presley’s estate. After Lisa Marie Presley’s passing in 2023, she embraced this responsibility, balancing the weight of her grandfather’s legacy with her own voice and values. “I really just try and follow what my mother did,” she said. “I feel lucky to have seen how she wanted Graceland represented. It’s about respecting what’s come before while still finding my own path.”

With Blazy set to take the reins in October, the anticipation for Chanel’s next era is palpable. Keough summed up the sentiment: “Everyone’s really excited. Chanel has such a huge legacy, and it’s got to be right — but I don’t think it will disappoint.”

Vittoria Ceretti wears a creation as part of the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Raye arrives for the the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena).

A model wears a creation as part of the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Dakota Fanning, from left, Derek Blasberg, and Jessica Alba attend the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Camila Cabello arrives for the the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena).

Models wear creations as part of the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

A model wears a creation as part of the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Anna Mouglalis arrives for the the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena).

Constance Tsang arrives for the the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena).

Whitney Peak arrives for the the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena).

Camila Cabello arrives for the the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena).

Liu Wen arrives for the the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena).

Liu Wen arrives for the the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena).

Loreta Peralta arrives for the the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena).

Vittoria Ceretti leads other models as they wear creations as part of the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Models wear creations as part of the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Vittoria Ceretti leads other models as they wear creations as part of the Chanel Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented Tuesday, March 11, 2025. in Paris. (Photo by Scott A Garfitt/Invision/AP)

Protesters confronted federal officers in Minneapolis on Thursday, a day after a woman was fatally shot by an Immigration and Customs Enforcement officer.

The demonstrations came amid heightened tensions after President Donald Trump's administration dispatched 2,000 officers and agents to Minnesota for its latest immigration crackdown.

Across the country, another city was reeling after federal immigration officers shot and wounded two people in a vehicle outside a hospital in Portland, Oregon.

The killing of 37-year-old Renee Good in Minneapolis on Wednesday set off a clash between federal and state officials over whether the shooting appeared justified and whether a Minnesota law enforcement agency had jurisdiction to investigate.

Here's what is known about the shooting:

The woman was shot in her SUV in a residential neighborhood south of downtown Minneapolis, about a mile (1.6 kilometers) from where police killed George Floyd in 2020. Videos taken by bystanders and posted online show an officer approaching a vehicle stopped in the middle of the road, demanding the driver open the door and grabbing the handle.

The Honda Pilot begins to pull forward and a different ICE officer standing in front of the vehicle draws his gun and immediately fires at least two shots at close range, jumping back as the vehicle moves toward him.

It is not clear from the videos if the officer gets struck by the SUV, which speeds into two cars parked on a curb before stopping.

It’s also not clear what happened in the lead-up to the shooting.

Homeland Security Secretary Kristi Noem said the SUV was part of a group of protesters that had been harassing agents and “impeding operations” that morning. She said agents had freed one of their vehicles that was stuck in snow and were leaving the area when the confrontation and shooting occurred.

No video has emerged to corroborate Noem’s account. Bystander video from the shooting scene shows a sobbing woman who says the person shot was her wife. That woman hasn’t spoken publicly to give her version of events.

Good died of gunshot wounds to the head.

A U.S. citizen born in Colorado, Good described herself on social media as a “poet and writer and wife and mom." Her ex-husband said Good had just dropped off her 6-year-old son at school Wednesday and was driving home when she encountered ICE agents on a residential street.

He said Good and her current partner moved to Minneapolis last year from Kansas City, Missouri.

Good's killing is at least the fifth death to result from the aggressive U.S. immigration crackdown the Trump administration launched last year.

Noem said Thursday that there would be a federal investigation into the shooting, though she again called the woman’s actions “domestic terrorism.”

“This vehicle was used to hit this officer,” Noem said. “It was used as a weapon, and the officer feels as though his life was in jeopardy.”

Vice President JD Vance said the shooting was justified and referred to Good's death as “a tragedy of her own making.”

Minneapolis Police Chief Brian O’Hara gave no indication that the driver was trying to harm anyone when he described the shooting to reporters Wednesday. Minneapolis Mayor Jacob Frey said he had watched videos of the shooting that show it was avoidable.

The agent who shot Good is an Iraq War veteran who has served for nearly two decades in the Border Patrol and U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement, according to records obtained by The Associated Press.

Jonathan Ross has been a deportation officer with ICE since 2015, records show. He was seriously injured this summer when he was dragged by the vehicle of a fleeing suspect whom he shot with a stun gun.

Federal officials have not named the officer. But Noem said he was dragged by a vehicle in June, and a department spokesperson confirmed Noem was referring to the Bloomington, Minnesota, case in which documents identified the injured officer as Ross.

Court documents say Ross got his arm stuck in the window as a driver fled arrest in that incident. Ross was dragged 100 yards (91 meters), and cuts to his arm required 50 stitches.

According to police, officers initially responded to a report of a shooting outside a hospital Thursday afternoon.

Minutes later police heard that a man who had been shot was asking for help in a residential area a couple of miles away. Officers went there and found a man and a woman with gunshot wounds. Officers determined they were wounded in a shooting with federal agents.

Police Chief Bob Day said the FBI was leading the investigation and he had no details about events that led to the shooting.

The Department of Homeland Security said the vehicle’s passenger was “a Venezuelan illegal alien affiliated with the transnational Tren de Aragua prostitution ring” who was involved in a recent shooting. When agents identified themselves to the occupants during a “targeted vehicle stop,” the driver tried to run them over, the department said. An agent fired in self-defense, it said.

There was no immediate independent corroboration of that account or of any gang affiliation of the vehicle’s occupants.

Trump and his allies have consistently blamed Tren de Aragua for being at the root of violence and illicit drug dealing in some U.S. cities.

Drew Evans, head of Minnesota Bureau of Criminal Apprehension, said Thursday that federal authorities have denied the state agency access to evidence in the Good case, barring the state from investigating the shooting alongside the FBI.

Minnesota Gov. Tim Walz demanded that state investigators be given a role, telling reporters that residents would otherwise have a difficulty accepting the findings of federal law enforcement.

“And I say that only because people in positions of power have already passed judgment from the president to the vice president to Kristi Noem,” Walz said.

Noem denied that Minnesota authorities were being shut out, saying: “They don’t have any jurisdiction in this investigation.”

Dozens of protesters gathered Thursday morning outside a Minneapolis federal building being used as a base for the immigration crackdown. Border Patrol officers fired tear gas and doused demonstrators with pepper spray to push them back from the gate.

Area schools were closed as a safety precaution.

Protests were also planned across the U.S. in cities including New York, New Orleans and Seattle.

Associated Press writer Audrey McAvoy contributed.

Protesters confront federal agents outside the Bishop Henry Whipple Federal Building, Thursday, Jan. 8, 2026, in Minneapolis, Minn. (AP Photo/Tom Baker)

People gather for a vigil after an Immigration and Customs Enforcement officer shot and killed a motorist earlier in the day, Wednesday, Jan. 7, 2026, in Minneapolis. (AP Photo/Bruce Kluckhohn)

People participate in a protest and vigil after an Immigration and Customs Enforcement officer shot and killed a woman in Minneapolis, on Wednesday, Jan. 7, 2026. (Christopher Katsarov/The Canadian Press via AP)