PARIS (AP) — Showmanship returned to Chanel on Monday.
At Paris Fashion Week, its new designer Matthieu Blazy opened the season’s most anticipated debut beneath colossal celestial bodies — Saturn with its rings, a full solar system suspended above a jet-black and a mirror-bright runway — staking a claim for theater from the first second.
Click to Gallery
Jing Boran poses for photographers upon arrival at the Chanel Spring/Summer 2026 collection presented in Paris, Monday, Oct. 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Aurelien Morissard)
A model wears a creation as part of the Chanel Spring/Summer 2026 collection presented in Paris, Monday, Oct. 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Aurelien Morissard)
A model wears a creation as part of the Chanel Spring/Summer 2026 collection presented in Paris, Monday, Oct. 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Aurelien Morissard)
Leah Dou poses for photographers upon arrival at the Chanel Spring/Summer 2026 collection presented in Paris, Monday, Oct. 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)
A model wears a creation as part of the Chanel Spring/Summer 2026 collection presented in Paris, Monday, Oct. 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Aurelien Morissard)
Reflections mirrored the cosmos beneath the runway, while a front row constellation — Nicole Kidman, Marion Cotillard, Tilda Swinton, joined by Lauren Sanchez and Jeff Bezos — gazed upward.
By night’s end, the room rose in a standing ovation. As Vogue's doyenne Anna Wintour has said, “fashion needs its showmen.”
Chanel had one again.
Founded in 1910, Chanel reshaped women’s wardrobes by replacing corseted silhouettes with ease — jersey, trousers — and later codified a global idea of Parisian chic through the little black dress, pearls and the tweed suit. Under Karl Lagerfeld in the 1980s, it became the model for how a heritage house can be both historic and relentlessly modern, its runway spectacles influencing the industry far beyond Paris. That legacy made Blazy’s debut more than a change of designer, but a test of how a century-old, multi-billion dollar institution continues to speak to the world.
The show capped a season dense with debuts: Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga, Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe and Dario Vitale at Versace.
Yet Chanel’s moment felt singular for stakes and scale. By dialing down glitter, dialing up line, restoring theater and keeping the codes legible, Blazy positioned Chanel not as a museum of symbols but as a platform for them.
The opener functioned as a manifesto: an androgynous, slouchy pantsuit featuring low-slung trousers and an asymmetric jacket with structured shoulders. The looks split from the playbook of subdued designer Virginie Viard who parted ways with Chanel last year. They also shifted from late-period Karl Lagerfeld — one step closer to Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel.
The styles were not a reinvention of tweed, but rather menswear rethought through the founder’s origin story, when Coco wore the clothes of her lover the “Boy” Capel.
A hand anchored in a pocket made the point explicit: the freedom Chanel once placed in women’s hands — giving them trousers and pockets on them — restated. The spring 2026 collection, months in the making, read as an imagined conversation between Blazy and Chanel herself: thoughtfulness braided with showmanship.
Ribbons — rumored to be a sticking point between designer and atelier — were largely gone. Sparkle was sparse, a calculated risk in markets that prize high shine.
In their place came silhouette-first solutions and masses of feathers, with the camellia held as steady leitmotif. However far the line moved, the codes stayed legible — each look unmistakably Chanel. Tweed arrived interconnected rather than narrowly Parisienne — multicultural in palette and weave, intercontinental if not interplanetary.
Then came the fun wigs — what one critic termed the “funny little hats” — feathered, sly and intentionally light. They channeled Lagerfeld’s provocation about how he revitalized the once-dusty heritage house when he joined the helm in 1983.
“Chanel is an institution, and you have to treat an institution like a (prostitute) — and then you get something out of her," he said.
While Viard’s Chanel was often faulted for sobriety and restraint; Blazy, like Lagerfeld, deals in irony. At Bottega Veneta he staged frogs on heels, bunny-lapel coats and trompe-l’œil leather jeans. Here, plumage, proportion and wigs delivered the wink without tipping into theatrical costume.
Accessories set a new tempo: big hats, metallic bags, tiers of pearls, chunky gold chains and statement earrings — bold on paper, disciplined on the body. Handbags — the other reason Blazy was chosen — spanned crisp chain-strap updates and playful clutches, including a notable ovoid shaped like an egg.
The finale carried the argument in motion: a silky short-sleeve shirt paired with a multicolored feathered skirt with a long train. Color moved across the plumage and the black floor threw back its reflection.
“It was such a surprise. ... It’s exciting to be here for a new era," filmmaker Sofia Coppola told The Associated Press. “There are things you recognize from the house codes, and a fresh new look at it.”
Jing Boran poses for photographers upon arrival at the Chanel Spring/Summer 2026 collection presented in Paris, Monday, Oct. 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Aurelien Morissard)
A model wears a creation as part of the Chanel Spring/Summer 2026 collection presented in Paris, Monday, Oct. 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Aurelien Morissard)
A model wears a creation as part of the Chanel Spring/Summer 2026 collection presented in Paris, Monday, Oct. 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Aurelien Morissard)
Leah Dou poses for photographers upon arrival at the Chanel Spring/Summer 2026 collection presented in Paris, Monday, Oct. 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)
A model wears a creation as part of the Chanel Spring/Summer 2026 collection presented in Paris, Monday, Oct. 6, 2025. (AP Photo/Aurelien Morissard)
Federal Reserve Chair Jerome Powellsaid Sunday the Department of Justice has served the central bank with subpoenas and threatened it with a criminal indictment over his testimony this summer about the Fed’s building renovations.
The move represents an unprecedented escalation in President Donald Trump’s battle with the Fed, an independent agency he's repeatedly attacked for not cutting its key interest rate as sharply as he prefers. The renewed fight will likely rattle financial markets Monday and could over time escalate borrowing costs for mortgages and other loans.
The subpoenas relate to Powell’s testimony before the Senate Banking Committee in June, the Fed chair said, regarding the Fed’s $2.5 billion renovation of two office buildings, a project Trump has criticized as excessive.
Here's the latest:
Stocks are falling on Wall Street after Federal Reserve Chair Jerome Powell said the Department of Justice had served the central bank with subpoenas and threatened it with a criminal indictment over his testimony about the Fed’s building renovations.
The S&P 500 fell 0.3% in early trading Monday. The Dow Jones Industrial Average lost 384 points, or 0.8%, and the Nasdaq composite fell 0.2%.
Powell characterized the threat of criminal charges as pretexts to undermine the Fed’s independence in setting interest rates, its main tool for fighting inflation. The threat is the latest escalation in President Trump’s feud with the Fed.
▶ Read more about the financial markets
She says she had “a very good conversation” with Trump on Monday morning about topics including “security with respect to our sovereignties.”
Last week, Sheinbaum had said she was seeking a conversation with Trump or U.S. Secretary of State Marco Rubio after the U.S. president made comments in an interview that he was ready to confront drug cartels on the ground and repeated the accusation that cartels were running Mexico.
Trump’s offers of using U.S. forces against Mexican cartels took on a new weight after the Trump administration deposed Venezuelan President Nicolás Maduro. Sheinbaum was expected to share more about their conversation later Monday.
A leader of the Canadian government is visiting China this week for the first time in nearly a decade, a bid to rebuild his country’s fractured relations with the world’s second-largest economy — and reduce Canada’s dependence on the United States, its neighbor and until recently one of its most supportive and unswerving allies.
The push by Prime Minster Mark Carney, who arrives Wednesday, is part of a major rethink as ties sour with the United States — the world’s No. 1 economy and long the largest trading partner for Canada by far.
Carney aims to double Canada’s non-U.S. exports in the next decade in the face of President Trump’s tariffs and the American leader’s musing that Canada could become “the 51st state.”
▶ Read more about relations between Canada and China
The comment by a Chinese Foreign Ministry spokesperson came in response to a question at a regular daily briefing. President Trump has said he would like to make a deal to acquire Greenland, a semiautonomous region of NATO ally Denmark, to prevent Russia or China from taking it over.
Tensions have grown between Washington, Denmark and Greenland this month as Trump and his administration push the issue and the White House considers a range of options, including military force, to acquire the vast Arctic island.
Danish Prime Minister Mette Frederiksen has warned that an American takeover of Greenland would mark the end of NATO.
▶ Read more about the U.S. and Greenland
Trump said Sunday that he is “inclined” to keep ExxonMobil out of Venezuela after its top executive was skeptical about oil investment efforts in the country after the toppling of former President Nicolás Maduro.
“I didn’t like Exxon’s response,” Trump said to reporters on Air Force One as he departed West Palm Beach, Florida. “They’re playing too cute.”
During a meeting Friday with oil executives, Trump tried to assuage the concerns of the companies and said they would be dealing directly with the U.S., rather than the Venezuelan government.
Some, however, weren’t convinced.
“If we look at the commercial constructs and frameworks in place today in Venezuela, today it’s uninvestable,” said Darren Woods, CEO of ExxonMobil, the largest U.S. oil company.
An ExxonMobil spokesperson did not immediately respond Sunday to a request for comment.
▶ Read more about Trump’s comments on ExxonMobil
Trump’s motorcade took a different route than usual to the airport as he was departing Florida on Sunday due to a “suspicious object,” according to the White House.
The object, which the White House did not describe, was discovered during security sweeps in advance of Trump’s arrival at Palm Beach International Airport.
“A further investigation was warranted and the presidential motorcade route was adjusted accordingly,” White House press secretary Karoline Leavitt said in a statement Sunday.
The president, when asked about the package by reporters, said, “I know nothing about it.”
Anthony Guglielmi, the spokesman for U.S. Secret Service, said the secondary route was taken just as a precaution and that “that is standard protocol.”
▶ Read more about the “suspicious object”
Trump said Iran wants to negotiate with Washington after his threat to strike the Islamic Republic over its bloody crackdown on protesters, a move coming as activists said Monday the death toll in the nationwide demonstrations rose to at least 544.
Iran had no direct reaction to Trump’s comments, which came after the foreign minister of Oman — long an interlocutor between Washington and Tehran — traveled to Iran this weekend. It also remains unclear just what Iran could promise, particularly as Trump has set strict demands over its nuclear program and its ballistic missile arsenal, which Tehran insists is crucial for its national defense.
Iranian Foreign Minister Abbas Araghchi, speaking to foreign diplomats in Tehran, insisted “the situation has come under total control” in fiery remarks that blamed Israel and the U.S. for the violence, without offering evidence.
▶ Read more about the possible negotiations and follow live updates
Fed Chair Powell said Sunday the DOJ has served the central bank with subpoenas and threatened it with a criminal indictment over his testimony this summer about the Fed’s building renovations.
The move represents an unprecedented escalation in Trump’s battle with the Fed, an independent agency he has repeatedly attacked for not cutting its key interest rate as sharply as he prefers. The renewed fight will likely rattle financial markets Monday and could over time escalate borrowing costs for mortgages and other loans.
The subpoenas relate to Powell’s testimony before the Senate Banking Committee in June, the Fed chair said, regarding the Fed’s $2.5 billion renovation of two office buildings, a project that Trump has criticized as excessive.
Powell on Sunday cast off what has up to this point been a restrained approach to Trump’s criticisms and personal insults, which he has mostly ignored. Instead, Powell issued a video statement in which he bluntly characterized the threat of criminal charges as simple “pretexts” to undermine the Fed’s independence when it comes to setting interest rates.
▶ Read more about the subpoenas
President Donald Trump speaks to reporters while in flight on Air Force One to Joint Base Andrews, Md., Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026. (AP Photo/Julia Demaree Nikhinson)
President Donald Trump waves after arriving on Air Force One from Florida, Sunday, Jan. 11, 2026, at Joint Base Andrews, Md. (AP Photo/Julia Demaree Nikhinson)
