Armani's business and creative evolution on show in Milan a year after founder's death

MILAN (AP) — The future of Giorgio Armani ’s empire is coming into sharper focus a year after the designer’s death. On the runway in Milan, his signature elegance defined the latest collection previewed on Sunday, while behind the scenes talks are set to begin on the sale of a stake, as stipulated in his will.

Armani gave preference to LVMH, L’Oréal and EssilorLuxottica as potential buyers of a 15% stake to be sold within 18 months of his death on Sept. 4, 2025, at the age of 91.

Chief Executive Giuseppe Marsocci told reporters backstage at the runway show that there were no favorites and that the stake could potentially be split among all three companies.

“It is not written in stone that there has to be one,” he said.

Marsocci said the will allowed discussions to begin only after the first anniversary of Armani’s death but declined to confirm whether they had started. “The assumption” that talks were underway “may have some logic,” he said.

The recent appointment of Dario Vitale as head of accessories at Giorgio Armani and creative director of Emporio Armani has generated interest in the fashion house’s creative future. No date has been announced for his runway debut.

Asked whether Vitale’s role could expand, Marsocci said everything was evolving. “From here into the future, you never know,” he said.

The womenswear collection for next spring and summer deliberately mixed daywear with evening looks, with sparkle running through both. Lean, fluid trousers and long dresses shaped the silhouette, often paired with rigid bodices. The collection was titled “Evolution.”

“It evolved in the sense that it is fashion that everyone can wear,” said Silvana Armani, the late designer’s niece and longtime head of womenswear.

She departed from her uncle’s legacy in one important way: incorporating cotton, a textile that she said he didn’t like but which she “adores.”

The designer’s presence was most felt in the collection in two pieces: a recreation of the formal double-breasted Communion suit that Armani wore when he was 8-years-old and a graphic jacket bearing his smiling image.

Creative director Silvana Armani accepts applause at the end of the Giorgio Armani women's Spring-Summer 2027 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Giorgio Armani women's Spring-Summer 2027 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Giorgio Armani women's Spring-Summer 2027 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Giorgio Armani women's Spring-Summer 2027 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

Models wear creations part of the Giorgio Armani women's Spring-Summer 2027 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

PERTH, Australia (AP) — Australia hung on for an extraordinary 42-38 upset win over rugby World Cup champion South Africa on Sunday despite being reduced to 11 men against 15 during the last 10 minutes.

The Wallabies were leading 42-17 after winger Max Jorgensen swooped on a Springboks error and then sprinted 60 meters to score in the 64th minute. The momentum was all going the way of Australia, until the Wallabies lost four players to yellow cards in a dramatic finish as South Africa responded with three late tries.

“It was a crazy last 10 minutes,” Australia captain Harry Wilson, the first of the four players sent to the sin bin, said in a post-match television interview. “But that first 70 minutes, the way we played, we implemented our game plan. We did exactly what we wanted.”

Springboks center Andre Esterhuizen, who was leading the South Africa lineup in Perth, said it was an intense game and “quite quick for a test match.”

The Wallabies “capitalized on all our errors and I think discipline let us down, especially in that first half,” he said. “We let them in too many times and that really hurt us.”

Outside center Len Ikitau scored two tries in three minutes to help Australia take a 24-17 halftime lead in the Springboks’ first test since beating the All Blacks in the so-called Greatest Rivalry series earlier this month.

The top-ranked Springboks made 13 changes to the starting lineup from their 43-28 win over the New Zealand All Blacks at Baltimore two weeks ago, with only lock Eben Etzebeth and winger Ethan Hooker retaining their starting roles from the team that clinched the series 3-1.

Despite the overhaul, the back-to-back Rugby World Cup winners jumped to a 10-3 lead after 10 minutes in Perth before the Australians rallied on a pair of tries from Ikitau in the 23rd and 27th minutes and took charge — until a finish that Wallabies coach Les Kiss described as “bizarre.”

Italian referee Andrea Piardi, at times communicating with television match official Matteo Liperini via a mobile phone because regular communication equipment was failing, went to his pocket four times.

First, No. 8 Wilson was sent to the sin bin for a high tackle in the 69th minute after a video review. He was quickly followed by scrumhalf Ryan Lonergan, who was yellow-carded for a professional foul for diving into the back of a ruck and conceding a penalty try in the 71st.

Winger Joseph-Aukuso Sua’ali’i was sent off on review, after a Springboks try was disallowed, for being in an offside position, and center Hunter Paisami was sent off, also after a video review, for a high tackle in the lead up to what appeared to be an against-the-run-of-play intercept try to Tom Wright. That try, which would have given Australia a 47-31 lead in the 76th minute, was overturned. Instead, it left Australia with 11 players trying to defend an 11-point lead with four minutes remaining.

The margin was reduced to four points when replacement frontrower Ox Nche crashed over in the last minute, setting up a frantic final few seconds. Australia clung to victory when the Springboks ran out of time.

Kiss, who is unbeaten in five tests in charge of the Wallabies, said his players and coaching staff remained calm despite the late yellow cards.

“In those moments, you’ve just got to hold your nerve and stay clear about what you want to do and I think they did that. A bizarre finish,” he said in a TV interview. “But I don’t want us to forget about the first 60. I think it was a really important step up for us to take that game forward, control the game and really be brave and attack the game.”

See AP’s full rugby coverage here

Australia's Jeremy Williams, right, and Tom Wright celebrate their win over South Africa in their rugby union test match in Perth, Australia, on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026. (AP Photo/Gary Day)

Australian players celebrate with the Mandela Challenge Plate after defeating South Africa in their rugby union test match in Perth, Australia, on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026. (AP Photo/Gary Day)

Australia's Angus Bell, center, is tackled by South Africa's Marco van Staden during their rugby union test match in Perth, Australia, on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026. (AP Photo/Gary Day)

South Africa's Eben Etzebeth, top, wins a line out against Australia during their rugby union test match in Perth, Australia, on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026. (AP Photo/Gary Day)

Australia's Ben Donaldson, right scores a try against South Africa during their rugby union test match in Perth, Australia, on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026. (AP Photo/Gary Day)

Australia's Len Ikitau, center, charges though South Africa's Aphelele Fassi, right, to score a try during their rugby union test match in Perth, Australia, on Sunday, Sept. 27, 2026. (AP Photo/Gary Day)