Dolce & Gabbana explore DNA with star-filled cast

Milan designers are embracing women of all shapes, sizes and ages, even if the young, thin model prevailed during this week's previews for next spring and summer.

Marni's runway included women of different sizes while Dolce & Gabbana continued their embrace of models in a range of ages and sizes for their DNA runway show on Sunday.

Highlights from Sunday's show, the fifth day of previews of womenswear for next spring and summer:

Model Carla Bruni Sarkozy, centre, walks with other models as they wear creations as part of the Dolce & Gabbana women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

DOLCE & GABBANA PAY TRIBUTE TO HERITAGE

Dolce & Gabbana retraced their DNA by bringing back some of their most famous models: Carla Bruni in a brocade suit, Monica Belluci in a fitted polka-dot dress, Eva Herzigova in a frothy black chiffon number, and a caped Isabel Rosselilni, who walked with her children Roberto and Elettra carrying her young son.

In the brand's bid for inclusion, they sent grandmothers with granddaughters, husbands and wives, lesbian couples and curvy models, including Ashley Graham.

Model Eva Herzigova wears a creation as part of the Dolce & Gabbana women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Cardi B kept a careful eye on the collection from her front-row seat, taking off her animal skin-covered D&G sunglasses to take in the steady stream of flash. Her eyes stayed glued on an embroidered shawl jacket with mini-skirt, mouthing, "I like that," with a sassy shoulder shake.

The elaborate collection by Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana displayed the designers' unrivaled aptitude for over-the-top looks with a something-for-everyone range. There were pretty layered floral dresses with jeweled sandals, bejeweled biker jackets with tuxedo tails, raw jute fabrics in fringed day suits and tiered dresses in sparkly organza.

While the collection incorporated the duo's well-known motifs, including prints of the Madonna, Sicilian references and floral prints, there was also a pointed message on one netted top: "Fatto a Mano," or "handmade," to underline the commitment to craftsmanship.

A model wears a creation as part of the Dolce & Gabbana women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

The designers also provided a subtle hint of an upcoming project for Milan and Rome: a Christmas market inside the Rinascente department stores featuring Dolce&Gabbana styled appliances and their own range of the Milan Christmas cake, panettone, with flavors from their beloved Sicily. The hints included a Santa Claus figurine carried by a model and a print that echoes the unique panettone tin.

THE LIGHTNESS OF BEING ARMANI

Giorgio Armani's collection for next spring and summer was meticulously sculptured out of iridescent, dreamy blue, gray and pink textiles that collect the light. The main point of contrast, a bright fuchsia, which has become the power color of the season in Milan.

A model wears a creation as part of the Dolce & Gabbana women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

The looks had what the designer called "a liquid lightness," derived from a range of understated colors — save for a touch of fuchsia.

"It is all mixed and very subtle in terms of colors. The color this time gave form to the clothes," Armani said backstage.

The silhouette was elongated, often with a layer of organza that wrapped the figure or was layered over trousers for a misty effect. A plexiglass bustier gave shape to a micro-pleated dress.

A model wears a creation as part of the Dolce & Gabbana women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Armani continued his mastery of the jacket with fluid jackets over straight trousers, or slim-fitting leather jackets with trousers colorful water color prints, and blousons with a long layer of tulle spilling out. One dramatic cape-like jacket had exaggerated military detailing on the shoulders, worn over a shimmering organza fitted suit.

The collection had futuristic touches, from a cellophane look on footwear to mesh carryalls.

"This is a woman who wants to be noticed," the designer said. "She doesn't slink away dressed as a man."

Models wear creations as part of the Dolce & Gabbana women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Armani saluted the crowd wearing a jacket and tie instead of his usual dark blue T-shirt or sweater.

"You didn't recognize me, did you?" he joked backstage.

MARNI'S WAKEUP CALL

The fashion crowd woke up early Sunday for a fashion call, only to go back to bed in the Marni showroom. Designer Francesco Risso's latest kooky seating arrangement was a series of beds in the shape of an amphitheater.

A model wears a creation as part of the Dolce & Gabbana women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Risso was exploring the classics in more ways than one. The silhouette was mostly classic and tailored, with edgy touches that gave the collection the air of a desperate, punk housewife. But he also incorporated elements from the ancient classical world, including prints with architectural elements — a departure from Marni's traditional florals — and jewelry shaped like the Venus de Milo.

The art was all in the construction. Skirts were swept up like a sarong, worn with off the shoulder bustiers, but with sturdy fabrics that suggest the city and not light beachy fare. Risso put a new twist on the Roman toga in sleek, form-fitting textiles. Bomber jackets had half belts sewn into the back. Full-skirted dresses had front panels, some left as a blank canvass, others with prints.

Risso included in his model casting average-size women, who made clear the collections can have a broad audience.

Models wear creations as part of the Dolce & Gabbana women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Colors ranged from soft creams and yellows to louder reds and blues. Eye wear were dramatic pointy sunglasses.

MISSION CELEBRATES HERITAGE LOOKING TO FUTURE

Missoni treated the fashion crowd to a sweeping view of the new Milan skyline of skyscrapers by architects Zaha Hadid, Arata Isozaki and Daniel Libeskind to celebrate its 65th year.

Model Monica Bellucci leads other models as they wear creations as part of the Dolce & Gabbana women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Creative director Angela Missoni said she chose the terrace overlooking the City Life quarter and beneath Mario Bellini's silvery sculpture "Comet," because the view represented "the most futuristic place in Milan."

"This place is a dream. This place summarizes the future," she said.

The looks for men and women were delicate in tone, weight and structure.

A model wears a creation as part of the Dolce & Gabbana women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

For women, Angela Missoni constructed layered works, incorporating fresh detailing like tiered ruffles and braided overlays of yarn, for a playful touch. The men's looks were relaxed and functional, including kimono tops, long T-shirts and cardigans.

Model Ashley Graham wears a creation as part of the Dolce & Gabbana women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoAntonio Calanni)

Designer Giorgio Armani, centre, poses with models at the end of his women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

Designer Giorgio Armani, centre, poses with models at the end of his women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Giorgio Armani women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Giorgio Armani women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Giorgio Armani women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Giorgio Armani women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Giorgio Armani women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

A model wears a creation as part of the Giorgio Armani women's 2019 Spring-Summer collection, unveiled during the Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, Sunday, Sept. 23, 2018. (AP PhotoLuca Bruno)

NEW YORK (AP) — Google said Sunday that it is expanding the shopping features in its AI chatbot by teaming up with Walmart, Shopify, Wayfair and other big retailers to turn the Gemini app into a virtual merchant as well as an assistant.

An instant checkout function will allow customers to make purchases from some businesses and through a range of payment providers without leaving the Gemini chat they used to find products, according to Walmart and Google.

The news was announced on the first day of the National Retail Federation’s annual convention in New York, which is expected to draw 40,000 attendees from retailer and technology companies this week. The role of artificial intelligence in e-commerce and its impact on consumer behavior are expected to dominate the three-day event.

“The transition from traditional web or app search to agent-led commerce represents the next great evolution in retail," John Furner, Walmart's incoming president and CEO, said in a joint statement with Google and Alphabet CEO Sundar Pichaei.

Google’s new AI shopping feature works this way: if a customer asks what gear to get for a winter ski trip, for example, Gemini will return items from a participating retailers’ inventory.

In the case of Walmart, customers who link their Walmart and Gemini accounts will receive recommendations based on their past purchases, and any products they decide to buy via the chatbot could get combined with their existing Walmart or Sam's Club online shopping carts, according to the statement.

OpenAI and Walmart announced a similar deal in October, saying the partnership would allow ChatGPT members to use an instant checkout feature to shop for nearly everything available on Walmart’s website except for fresh food.

Google, OpenAI and Amazon all are racing to create tools that would allow for seamless AI-powered shopping by taking chatbot users from browsing to buying within the same program instead of having to go to a retailer’s website to complete a purchase. The race between OpenAI and Google has heated up in recent months.

Before the recent holiday shopping season, OpenAI launched an instant checkout feature within ChatGPT that allows users to buy products from select retailers and Etsy sellers without leaving the app.

San Francisco software company Salesforce estimated that AI influenced $272 billion, or 20%, of all global retail sales, in one way or another during the holiday shopping season.

Google said the AI-assisted shopping features in Gemini only would be available to U.S. users initially but that it planned to expand internationally in the coming months. Shoppers initially only can make payments through the cards linked to their Google accounts but soon will be able to make purchases using PayPal, the company said.

The aim of deploying chatbots in e-commerce is to make it easier for people to find what they’re looking for. Instead of entering search terms and keywords, they can type or use voice dictation, and refine their searches through a conversational back-and-forth. Tech companies also are rolling out “AI agents” that are a step beyond today's generative AI chatbots, though their ability to buy products on behalf of consumers is still limited.

“I’m under no false belief that there’s going to be a snap of the finger and then all of a sudden, agentic commerce is going to get everywhere," Mike Edmonds, PayPal's vice president of agentic commerce and commercial growth, said at Sunday's convention. But he cautioned retailers against taking a wait-and-see approach.

Shopify founder and CEO Tobi Lutke told a small group of reporters on Thursday that many people like the experience of “having a personal shopper who really gets them, understands them and can fit something in your budget," but Shopify also wants to make it doesn't “over automate."

“The person, the shopper, is in charge, and they can make the final call, but also we make it so that people find the perfect product for themselves,” he added.

Walmart's Furner said Sunday that the largest employer and retailer in the U.S. is trying to “close the gap between I want it and I have it” with the help of AI.

He and Pichaei announced from a stage at the National Retail Federation conference that Walmart plans to expand drone delivery service to 150 more stores in partnership with Wing, a division of Alphabet. The addition will bring Walmart's drone delivery locations with Wing to 270 by 2027, stretching from Los Angeles to Miami, the companies said.

FILE - Alphabet CEO Sundar Pichai speaks at a Google I/O event in Mountain View, Calif., Tuesday, May 20, 2025. (AP Photo/Jeff Chiu, File)