Elie Saab banishes gray skies, channels '70s in Paris

Elie Saab and Vivienne Westwood were among designers featured at Paris Fashion Week Saturday, with organizers on heightened alert as French yellow vests protesters mobilized in Paris for a 16th straight weekend. Marches are planned not far from show venues near the Arc de Triomphe.

Some highlights of the fall and winter ready-to-wear shows:

A RELATIVELY QUIET SATURDAY

A model wears a creation as part of the Elie Saab ready to wear Fall-Winter 2019-2020 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, March 2, 2019. (AP PhotoMichel Euler)

Many guests invited to the Elie Saab show were held up by snaking traffic caused by the yellow vest demonstrations in Paris. But the display, held a short distance from the Arc de Triomphe at the exclusive Hotel Salomon de Rothschild, started on time and without incident.

Paris' Fashion Federation has held top level meetings with police to assess the threat of any potential disruption to shows, especially because luxury Parisian boutiques were smashed in previous marches. No major incident has yet occurred.

Some guests gasped as shouts erupted on the street ahead of the show — but the fracas, it transpired, came from excited fans of VIP attendees who included American socialite Olivia Palermo.

A model wears a creation as part of the Elie Saab ready to wear Fall-Winter 2019-2020 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, March 2, 2019. (AP PhotoMichel Euler)

This is the second time Paris Fashion Week has coincided with the protests. Activists argue the French political system is stacked in favor of the elite and big businesses.

ELIE SAAB'S 70s

An infectious, retro soundtrack had fashion editors smiling as their tapped their feet at Elie Saab's fun collection that channeled this season's top trend: The '70s.

A model wears a creation as part of the Elie Saab ready to wear Fall-Winter 2019-2020 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, March 2, 2019. (AP PhotoMichel Euler)

Bright lighting banished any gray mood caused by the French capital's overcast weather and angry demonstrations.

It illuminated a typically-feminine array of color-rich gowns.

Charlie's Angels-style jabot collars and high necks led the eye down to tight-fitting gowns with floppy ruffles across the bust or down the side. Later, sparkly disco gowns dazzled.

A model wears a creation as part of the Elie Saab ready to wear Fall-Winter 2019-2020 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, March 2, 2019. (AP PhotoMichel Euler)

Thigh-high leather boots — another big Paris trend — were delivered in eye-popping colors such as vivid blue, carmine red and cadmium green. They matched the hues of the gowns in a "total look" effect.

The collection, the house said, was filled with "a little bit of romance and a whole lot of love." That mantra translated as an overly busy heart print on skirts and gowns that diverged from the retro musing and fared less well.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD'S CONTRADICTIONS

A model wears a creation as part of the Elie Saab ready to wear Fall-Winter 2019-2020 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, March 2, 2019. (AP PhotoMichel Euler)

Silken sea-green blazers, corseted gowns, patchwork jeans with zippers in random locations and pants in dalmatian print: That was just the front row.

As a true "identity brand," Vivienne Westwood's shows typically attract guests dressed as vibrantly as the runway models.

On the catwalk, designer Andreas Kronthaler put out a highly accomplished collection of ensembles defined by anachronism and contradiction.

A model wears a creation as part of the Westwood ready to wear Fall-Winter 2019-2020 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, March 2, 2019. (AP PhotoThibault Camus)

Punk wigs mixed with loose medieval-style gowns, historic gathered skirts, sneakers, red leggings and check pants. Punk was a key touchstone of Westwood, Kronthaler's wife and design partner, from whom he took over some years ago.

Contrasts in material, color and pattern were key to the typically eclectic style formula.

One look married 80s disco queen with a Medici princess, with a pastel silver lame gown descending over a pant-skirt ensemble in dark sienna that curved round in a Renaissance style.

A model wears a creation as part of the Elie Saab ready to wear Fall-Winter 2019-2020 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, March 2, 2019. (AP PhotoMichel Euler)

LVMH PRIZE

Shortlisted designers from 15 countries have gathered at the headquarters of luxury goods giant LVMH for the annual LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, launched in 2014.

The conglomerate's CEO, Bernard Arnault, is Europe's richest man. His company has made a point of using its resources and influence to support upcoming artists and designers from all over the world.

A model wears a creation as part of the Elie Saab ready to wear Fall-Winter 2019-2020 collection, that was presented in Paris, Saturday, March 2, 2019. (AP PhotoMichel Euler)

The panel of judges includes models Naomi Campbell and Natalia Vodianova.

On Friday evening, this year's shortlisted designers gathered in Paris at the invitation of Arnault's daughter, Delphine Arnault.

They included Anrealage by Tokyo-based designer Kunihiko Morinaga, and Bode's American designer Emily Adams Bode. The winner, who will receive a 300,000-euro grant, will be announced in June.

Thomas Adamson can be followed at Twitter.com/ThomasAdamson_K

LONDON (AP) — Marmalade is proving to be a sticky subject in Britain as a debate simmers over changes to the definition of the beloved breakfast spread made of citrus fruits.

Lawmakers in the House of Commons on Wednesday expressed concern about marmalade's future after media reports that U.K. Prime Minister Keir Starmer’s push for closer ties with the European Union could mean unwanted change for the tangy toast topping.

Along with being a breakfast-table staple, marmalade has achieved a special place in British culture as the favorite food of the fictional character Paddington Bear and a subsequent association with the late Queen Elizabeth II after the two appeared together in a short comedy video during her 2022 Platinum Jubilee celebrations.

Recent media reports say the preserve — most commonly made from the juice and rind of oranges — will have to be relabeled “citrus marmalade” under a food and drink deal with the European Union.

“What would Paddington think!” fumed the Daily Mail earlier this month. Opposition Conservative foreign affairs spokeswoman Priti Patel accused the government of “attacking the great British marmalade.”

Like many “euromyths” — stories about EU bureaucracy that are ever-popular in the British press — it has an element of truth.

The bloc has relaxed a rule — introduced at Britain’s request when it was a member — that had said only preserves made from citrus fruit could be called marmalade. Other preserves had to be labeled as jam, despite the fact that in some European countries, the name marmalade is applied to all fruit conserves. In German, for example, the word for jam is “marmelade.”

After Britain’s exit, the EU decreed that member states can also use the word marmalade for non-citrus fruit spreads, as long as the type of fruit involved is identified.

With Britain planning to align its food rules with those of the bloc as part of measures to ease post-Brexit trade, hence the conundrum.

Democratic Unionist Party lawmaker Jim Shannon lamented in Parliament that it was a case of “EU labeling interfering with our produce.”

The U.K. government says marmalade sold in Britain is usually labeled “orange marmalade” or “Seville orange marmalade” and is already in compliance with EU rules.

Food Security Minister Angela Eagle said that there would be “a small change to our marmalade description rules,” but “the real-world impact would be minimal and consumers are unlikely to notice any difference.”

Opposition Liberal Democrat lawmaker Tessa Munt, who had called for Wednesday’s marmalade debate, was more concerned about protecting the integrity of this “distinctly British product.”

She urged the government to ensure that “only citrus fruits can precede the world marmalade on labels.”

“I have seen strawberry marmalade and all sorts of pear marmalade” in one upmarket grocer, she exclaimed. “This is rubbish. There’s no such thing.”

Shop bought varieties of orange marmalade are arranged for a photo in London, Wednesday, April 15, 2026. (AP Photo/Alastair Grant)

Shop bought varieties of orange marmalade are arranged for a photo in London, Wednesday, April 15, 2026. (AP Photo/Alastair Grant)