Gucci touts 'casual grandeur,' Tod's focuses on Artisanal Intelligence and Versace plays it safe

MILAN (AP) — The fashion palate cleanser of the season: white. Milan fashion houses, more often than not this season, are opening their runway preview shows for next spring and summer with all-white looks.

Tod’s put the emphasis on white with tables of artisans constructing white driving shoes inside the showroom, and followed by opening the show with a crisp white look, as did a host of other fashion houses this week, including Moschino, Alberta Ferretti, Del Core and Cavalli.

The fashion crowd arriving at the highly anticipated Gucci show passed through a white tunnel that burst into the colors of a sunset along the length of the runway.

Highlights from mostly womenswear previews for next spring and summer on the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week on Friday:

Sabato De Sarno starts a new fashion cycle a year after debuting his first Gucci collection, focusing on some of his self-described obsessions: tailoring, lingerie, leather and a 1960s silhouette.

In its simplest form, a white tank with Gucci-stripe piping was paired with dark trousers with a hemline slit over sneakers, referencing menswear. In its most elaborate, Gucci-monogram overcoats dragged imperially on the runway, and lingerie peeked out of glossy, textured leather.

A blouse slinked insouciantly off the shoulder. Sequined dresses rustled. Crepe dresses were anchored with bamboo-shaped hardware. Mini-skirts bubbled slightly. Floral headscarves or big sunhats finished the looks.

De Sarno dubbed the collection “casual grandeur.”

“Moment after moment, I have built my ideas for Gucci,'' he said in notes. ”A casual grandeur that takes shape through my obsessions ... and always with an irreverent attitude."

Gucci's front-row glistened with Jessica Chastain, Kirsten Dunst, Nicola Coughlan — who stopped to take a selfie with fans — and Italy's own tennis hero, Jannick Sinner, a Gucci ambassador. A crowd of K-pop fans chanted in anticipation of the arrival of Jin from BTS, another brand ambassador.

The opening movement of Beethoven’s Fifth signaled the start of the Versace runway show inside a courtyard of the medieval Sforza Castle.

But as soon as the models hit the runway, the tempo shifted to contemporary house music as a drone recorded the scene from overhead.

The Spring-Summer 2025 collection was conservative by Donatella Versace standards, looks for good girls mixing and matching satiny pencil skirts, polos and demure cardigans, easily tied together by a car coat. The silhouette and the mod hairstyles suggested an inspiraiton at the cusp of the 1960s and 1970s.

The most daring ensembles comprised short-shorts with tights and platform heels, or a chiffony dress left open from the belly button to reveal a pair of wavy-patterned panties. Gigi Hadid modeled an off-shoulder floral midi dress, that was pretty without being in any way provocative. A metallic-finish dress with a plunging cowl projected the most sensuality.

The menswear was very much a companion to the women’s looks: the same wavy knits in a trio of colors, and satiny floral prints as shirts or pajama suiting. That is, many pieces to mix and match, light on the attitude.

In a world abuzz over artificial intelligence, Tod’s highlighted artisanal intelligence.

Dozens of craftspeople flanked the showroom, hand-stitching the brand’s trademark Gommino driving shoe. Models emerged from beneath a pair of sculptor Lorenzo Quinn’s oversized white hands, grasping a spiral of leather.

“Artisanal intelligence goes against what everyone is talking about,’’ creative director Matteo Tamburini said before the show. “The focus is on a very elevated product, which is the cornerstone of Made in Italy.”

The Spring-Summer 2025 collection started with crisp cotton pairings: trousers or skirts with oversized shirts. The looks were reproduced in a soft leather, intentionally fluid for the warmer months, while a leather overcoat was more sturdily vintage. Asymmetrical cuts and wraps gave the collection a touch of casual elegance. Looks were finished with barely there criss-cross sandals, the new Gommino in glove leather or a clog version.

Tamburini said the only thing he uses AI for is to craft talking points for journalists. “I am not a writer,’’ he said, laughing.

The Sunnei fashion brand marked its 10th anniversary questioning the very notion of “growing up,” and casting aspersions on the idea of “maturing.”

With a dose of irony and fob for diversity, brand founders Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina, both in their mid-30s, cast only older models, mostly graying, and most probably falling into a demographic of over 65s that the show notes say make up a quarter of Milan’s population.

The pace of the show, spanning two floors, was kept slow, which the notes suggested was due to the stairs, but could also have been in consideration of the colorful platform flip-flops the brand has created in collaboration with Camper.

In any case, the collection retained the brand’s winning, youthful jubilance, depicted in oversized garb like billowing bubble tops gathered at the waist, a striped T-shirt so big it became a tunic, and a blouse that tented over an A-line pleated leather skirt.

The trouser of the season for men and women gathered at the ankle with fanning pleats. A more simply tailored pant has a built-in apron, over which to layer a utility belt full of zippered pockets.

The designers candidly acknowledged an Artificial Intelligence fail, falling back on the human design team for the collection's prints of six faces that appeared on dresses and tops, and which were available for purchase immediately after the show on Sunnei’s website.

Backstage, brand founders Rizzo and Messina celebrated their team with hugs, tears and shouts of, “Bravissimi!"

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

A model wears a creation as part of the Versace Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)

Nicola Coughlan takes photographs with fans as she departs the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Hanni departs the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Hanni departs the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Fans react as musician Jin departs the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Jannik Sinner, centre, departs the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Jessica Chastain departs the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Jessica Chastain departs the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Kirsten Dunst departs the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Kirsten Dunst departs the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Nicola Coughlan departs the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Jin departs the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Jin departs the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

Sabato De Sarno, creative director of Gucci, accepts applause after the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

A model wears a creation as part of the Gucci Spring Summer 2025 collection, that was presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Sept. 20, 2024. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno).

In the past week, many Americans remained focused on the economy, inflation and how those forces could impact their lives. Trips to the grocery store or gas station are more painful than they were last year, and that is impacting the decisions of both households and businesses.

Here’s a snapshot of prominent economic data and news that occurred over the past week and what it potentially means for you.

America’s employers delivered a surprising 115,000 new jobs last month despite an economic shock from the Iran war.

Hiring was better than the 65,000 forecasters had expected, though it decelerated from the 185,000 jobs created in March. The unemployment rate remained at a low 4.3%, the Labor Department reported Friday.

Healthcare added 37,000 jobs last month and retailers 22,000. However, manufacturers cut 2,000 jobs in April and have shed 66,000 jobs over the past year despite President Donald Trump’s protectionist policies aimed at creating factory jobs.

The average long-term U.S. mortgage rate rose again this week, reflecting ongoing bond market volatility as surging oil prices due to the war with Iran heighten inflation worries.

The benchmark 30-year fixed rate mortgage rate rose to 6.37% from 6.3% last week, mortgage buyer Freddie Mac said Thursday. That’s still down from one year ago, when the rate averaged 6.76%.

This is the second straight weekly increase, bringing the average rate back to where it was four weeks ago.

Weekly U.S. jobless claim applications rose last week but remain at historically low levels despite elevated inflation and other economic headwinds.

The number of Americans filing for unemployment benefits in the week ending May 2 rose by 10,000 to 200,000, the Labor Department reported Thursday. That’s fewer than the 205,000 new applications analysts surveyed by the data firm FactSet were expecting.

The previous week’s new claims figure, which was the fewest since 1969, was revised up by 1,000 to 190,000.

Weekly filings for unemployment benefits are considered a proxy for U.S. layoffs and are close to a real-time indicator of the health of the job market.

U.S. job openings were essentially unchanged in March but hiring improved before the full impact of the Iran war hit the economy.

Employers posted 6.87 million jobs in March, compared to 6.92 million in February, the Labor Department reported Tuesday.

The job market has been up and down so far this year after a dismal 2025. And the Iran war, which began Feb. 28, has clouded the outlook for the economy and hiring.

The Job Openings and Labor Turnover Survey showed that layoffs rose in March. But hiring improved: Employers added 5.55 million gross jobs, the most since February 2024. More Americans also quit their jobs — a sign of confidence in their prospects.

U.S. stocks rose toward new highs to end the week on promising news in the labor market and also more strong earnings for major U.S. corporations.

The S&P 500 climbed 0.5% toward an all-time high after a report said U.S. employers added 115,000 more jobs than they cut last month, even though the war with Iran is raising fuel costs and uncertainty for everyone.

While hiring slowed from March’s level, it was nevertheless nearly double what economists expected. And it kept the S&P 500 on track for a sixth straight winning week, which would be its longest such streak since 2024. The U.S. stock market has blasted higher since late March, in part on hopes that the war will not mean a worst-case scenario for the global economy and that the Strait of Hormuz will reopen to allow oil tankers to deliver crude from the Persian Gulf again.

Trader Edward McCarthy, left, and Michael Milano work on the floor of the New York Stock Exchange, Thursday, May 7, 2026. (AP Photo/Richard Drew)

FILE - The per-gallon price is displayed elecronically over the grades of gasoline available at a Buc-ee's convenience stop Thursday, May 7, 2026, in Johnstown, Colo. (AP Photo/David Zalubowski, file)

FILE - Hiring sign for sales professionals is displayed at a store, in Vernon Hills, Ill., Wednesday, April 15, 2026. (AP Photo/Nam Y. Huh, file)