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Max Mara responds to rising global tensions and temperatures with lightness on Milan runway

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Max Mara responds to rising global tensions and temperatures with lightness on Milan runway
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Max Mara responds to rising global tensions and temperatures with lightness on Milan runway

2025-09-25 18:47 Last Updated At:19:01

MILAN (AP) — Max Mara takes a sexy power turn for next summer, showing lots of skin with a touch of fetishism in a collection previewed Thursday during Milan Fashion Week.

Creative director Ian Griffiths created soft volumes out of organza and technical mesh that enhanced shoulders and hips with a twirling ruffle effect. Leaf-shaped organza cutouts were tailored into fluttery skirts and jackets — long and short — that whispered down the runway

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A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

The backbone of the collection was the power suit with a hint of fetishism. Pencil skirts and trousers out of stretch jersey were paired with cropped knitwear that showed off belts accenting the bare midriffs. Griffiths linked the fetishistic reference to British style “at its best,” even when elegant and formal.

While the main silhouette was slim and sexy, the wide-legged palazzo pant also had a cameo role.

The collections hewed to Max Mara’s camel and black trademark monochromes, with just one print featuring faded rococo shell and coral images.

Griffiths said his pursuit of lightness was a response to both rising global temperatures and tensions.

“The theme for Max Mara this season is lightness and strength, and capriciousness and playfulness. Playfulness with power,’’ Griffiths said. “I think everyone is looking for a little bit of escapism and poetry in their clothes right now.”

Thai actress Peraya Malisorn in a belted black ensemble and Spanish actress Paz Vega in a gray double-breasted men's tailored suit made front row appearances.

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

A model wears a creation part of the Max Mara women's Spring-Summer 2026 collection, presented in Milan, Italy, Thursday, Sept. 25, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

GLENDALE, Ariz. (AP) — Carson Beck scrambled for a 3-yard touchdown with 18 seconds left, and Miami will head back home for a shot at its first national championship since 2001 after beating Mississippi 31-27 in an exhilarating College Football Playoff semifinal at the Fiesta Bowl on Thursday night.

The 10th-ranked Hurricanes (13-2) had their vaunted defense picked apart by the sixth-ranked Rebels (13-2) in a wild fourth quarter, falling into a 27-24 hole after Trinidad Chambliss threw a 24-yard touchdown pass to Dae'Quan Wright with 3:13 left.

Beck, who won a national title as a backup at Georgia, kept the Hurricanes calm amid the storm, leading them down the field for the winning score — and a shot at a national title on their home field at Hard Rock Stadium on Jan. 19. Beck is 37-5 as a starter, including two seasons at Georgia.

The sixth-seeded Rebels lost their coach before the playoff, but not their cool.

If anything, Lane Kiffin’s decision to bolt for LSU seemed to harden Ole Miss’ resolve, pushing the Rebels to the best season in school history — and within a game of their first national championship game.

Ole Miss kept Miami within reach when its offense labored and took a 19-17 lead on Lucas Carneiro’s fourth field goal, from 21 yards.

Malachi Toney, the hero of Miami’s opening CFP win over Texas A&M, turned a screen pass into a 36-yard touchdown that put Miami up 24-19.

Chambliss' TD pass to Wright put the Rebels back on top, but improbable run came to an end when the defense couldn't hold the Hurricanes.

But what a run it was.

With Pete Golding calling the shots after being promoted from defensive coordinator to head coach, and most of the assistants sticking around, the Rebels blew out Tulane to open the playoff and took down mighty Georgia in the CFP quarterfinals.

They faced a different kind of storm in the Hurricanes.

Miami has rekindled memories of its 2001 national championship team behind a defense that went from porous to nearly impenetrable in its first season under coordinator Corey Hetherman.

The Hurricanes walled up early in the Fiesta Bowl, holding Ole Miss to minus-1 yard.

One play revved up the Rebels and their rowdy fans.

Kewan Lacy, the nation’s third-leading rusher, burst through a hole up the middle for a 73-yard touchdown run on the first play of the second quarter — the longest run allowed by Miami’s defense since 2018.

The Hurricanes seemed content to grind away at the Rebels in small chunks offensively, setting up CharMar Brown’s 4-yard touchdown run and a field goal.

Miami unlocked the deep game just before halftime, taking advantage of a busted coverage for a 52-yard touchdown pass from Beck to Keelan Marion.

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Miami quarterback Carson Beck, right, prepares to hand off to running back Mark Fletcher Jr. during the first half of the Cotton Bowl College Football Playoff quarterfinal game against Ohio State Wednesday, Dec. 31, 2025, in Arlington, Texas. (AP Photo/Julio Cortez)

Miami quarterback Carson Beck, right, prepares to hand off to running back Mark Fletcher Jr. during the first half of the Cotton Bowl College Football Playoff quarterfinal game against Ohio State Wednesday, Dec. 31, 2025, in Arlington, Texas. (AP Photo/Julio Cortez)

Mississippi head coach Pete Golding runs on the field at halftime during the Sugar Bowl NCAA college football playoff quarterfinal game against Georgia, Thursday, Jan. 1, 2026, in New Orleans. (AP Photo/Matthew Hinton)

Mississippi head coach Pete Golding runs on the field at halftime during the Sugar Bowl NCAA college football playoff quarterfinal game against Georgia, Thursday, Jan. 1, 2026, in New Orleans. (AP Photo/Matthew Hinton)

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