Travel with Bastille | Qinghai's Ta'er Temple: Where Faith Never Wavers, and Art Transcends Time

When people think of Qinghai's scenery, many immediately picture Qinghai Lake and the vast, rugged landscapes of Northwest China. This time, Bastille Post's visit to Qinghai revealed not only local natural beauty, but also profound faith and art shining in the region. Visiting Ta'er Temple, a sacred site of Tibetan Buddhism, the reporter experienced a rare sense of solemnity and tranquility.

Ta'er Temple, Photo by Bastille Post

Located in Northwest China, Qinghai is a high-altitude region. Its capital, Xining, sits at approximately 2,200 meters above sea level. According to the rule of thumb that temperature drops by about six degrees Celsius for every 1,000 meters of elevation gain, Xining enjoys a natural coolness compared to the sweltering heat of Hong Kong. During the reporter's visit, temperatures remained consistently comfortable.

The Heart of Tibetan Buddhism

As a sacred site of Tibetan Buddhism, Ta'er Temple in Qinghai is not merely a temple but a vast complex of more than 9,300 structures, including the Eight Stupas, the Little Golden Tile Temple, and the Nine-Bay Hall. As soon as the reporter stepped out of the car, a row of stupas came into view. With blue brick bases and white pagoda bodies, these ancient structures, built in 1776 during the Qianlong era, bear the marks of time. Yet against the backdrop of blue skies and white clouds, they possess a unique and enduring mystique.

A row of stupas, Photo by Bastille Post

The halls of Ta'er Temple are numerous and magnificent, adorned with murals everywhere. Even after a century, the colors remain strikingly vibrant. Almost every hall features prayer wheels, intricately carved with traditional patterns. Turning them clockwise is believed to bring good fortune, peace, and happiness. With so many wheels, turning them all would take a long time. In the end, the reporter bought a small prayer wheel and spun it several times as a gesture of respect.

Prayer wheels, Photo by Bastille Post

Prayer wheels, Photo by Bastille Post

Prayer wheels, Photo by Bastille Post

The small prayer wheel bought by the reporter, Photo by Bastille Post

100,000 Prostrations for Perfect Merit

In places steeped in religion, people possess a remarkable power of faith. Although the reporter had some understanding of Tibetan pilgrimages, witnessing the practice in person was still deeply moving.

Pilgrims must perform 100,000 prostrations to complete their spiritual journey for perfect merit. Photo by Bastille Post

At Ta'er Temple, pilgrims were seen almost constantly, wearing protective hand and knee pads, prostrating themselves every three steps, all in the hope of reaching Lhasa. Among them were both the elderly and the young.

Protective hand and knee pads worn by pilgrims, Photo by Bastille Post

The prostration itself follows specific rules: one must lie fully flat on the ground, hands clasped together, and arms extended straight forward, then rise and repeat, over and over again. The reporter overheard a local Tibetan say that pilgrims must perform 100,000 prostrations to complete their spiritual journey for perfect merit. The reason, he explained, is that when Tsongkhapa achieved Buddhahood, a Bodhi tree grew from the spot where he sat with 100,000 leaves, each bearing the image of a Buddha. Thus, pilgrims must prostrate themselves before all 100,000 Buddha images.

Waiting for Falling Leaves Under the Bodhi Tree

Outside the Great Golden Tile Hall at the heart of Ta'er Temple stands a Bodhi tree, which is said to have grown from the spot where Tsongkhapa's umbilical cord was cut with blood dripping. The tree is believed to have 100,000 leaves, each bearing the image of a Buddha. Pilgrims and devotees wait here specifically to find fallen leaves. Finding a complete leaf is considered exceptionally fortunate. The reporter waited a long time under the tree, but did not see a single leaf fall. Perhaps it was not yet the right time. Perhaps autumn will bring better luck.

The Bodhi tree, Photo by Bastille Post

Three Artistic Wonders of Ta'er Temple

No visit to Ta'er Temple is complete without seeing its murals, appliqué embroidery, and butter sculptures,  collectively known as the "Three Artistic Wonders" of Ta'er Temple.

Ta'er Temple's murals, Photo by Bastille Post

Ta'er Temple's murals are often described as "painted with gold", with subject matter drawn largely from Buddhist stories. Unlike ordinary paintings, the artists used natural minerals such as cinnabar, realgar, and malachite as pigments. Some even added gold leaf to ensure the colors would remain vibrant for centuries.

Appliqué embroidery, Photo by Bastille Post

Appliqué embroidery, Photo by Bastille Post

Appliqué embroidery, Photo by Bastille Post

Appliqué embroidery, Photo by Bastille Post

Appliqué embroidery is a form of Thangka art. Using fabrics such as silk, hemp, cotton, and wool, artisans employ special cutting and layering techniques to create the embroidery. The pieces are then stuffed with wool, cotton, or other fillings to give the images a three-dimensional, relief-like quality. A local explained that it is somewhat similar to collage or cross-stitch: cutting out patterns and piecing them together to form a new work. In a sense, we could even try making one ourselves.

Butter sculpture, Photo by Bastille Post

Butter sculpture, Photo by Bastille Post

Butter sculpture, Photo by Bastille Post

Of the three, the butter sculpture left the deepest impression on the reporter. As the name suggests, the raw material is yak butter, which produces only about one kilogram of butter from every 20 kilograms of yak milk. Given the limited quantity and the strict temperature control required, there is a saying: "deforms at 15°C, melts at 25°C." Artisans must repeatedly dip their hands in ice water to cool them in a near-freezing room, spending months to complete their creations.

Reporter appreciated the artistry of butter sculptures on site. Photo by Bastille Post

In 2006, butter sculptures were inscribed as a national intangible cultural heritage. But like many such crafts, this art form faces the risk of extinction. Currently, only about thirty artisans possess the skills to create butter sculptures proficiently. Since it takes two to three years of practice just to reach the beginner level, selecting artisans through interest classes is impractical. Moreover, due to the harsh training conditions, most learners choose to give up eventually.

A Brief Visit, a Lasting Impression

Due to time constraints, the reporter stayed at Ta'er Temple for only about two hours before leaving. To thoroughly explore every hall and fully appreciate its historical and cultural significance would likely require ten days to two weeks.

Purple lilacs, Photo by Bastille Post

White lilacs, Photo by Bastille Post

As the reporter departed, fragrant lilacs swayed along the roadside, with white and purple blossoms particularly pleasing to the eye. In the distance, colorful prayer flags fluttered on the mountains, carrying good wishes and silent blessings.

Colorful prayer flags, Photo by Bastille Post

Flowing through the Loess Plateau, the Yellow River has long been defined by the vast amounts of silt it carries, giving it the murky, sediment-rich character that inspired its name. Nevertheless, at Kanbula UNESCO Global Geopark, the water of the Yellow River is as clear as pieces of emeralds, flowing quietly between red Danxia cliffs as if it were a different river.

Kanbula UNESCO Global Geopark, Photo by Bastille Post

Kanbula UNESCO Global Geopark, Photo by Bastille Post

Red Danxia Landscape Embraces Emerald River

"Kanbula" is a Tibetan word meaning "homeland of the Khampa people." Driving along the mountain roads, you can catch clear glimpses of the Yellow River, the Lijiaxia Dam, and several famous Yardang landform sites. But only at Kanbula UNESCO Global Geopark can you truly immerse yourself in the surrounding Danxia peaks from a boat.

At Kanbula UNESCO Global Geopark, the water of the Yellow River is as clear as pieces of emeralds. Photo by Bastille Post

Red Danxia landscape at the park, Photo by Bastille Post

The reason the Yellow River runs so clear at Kanbula lies in its unique location. Perched in the upper Yellow River, Kanbula is where the river reveals its clearest self. Having passed through the Lijiaxia and Longyangxia Reservoirs, the once-surging current has slowed, causing its heavy silt to settle to the bottom. What arrives at Kanbula is a river transformed: clean, green, and utterly unrecognizable from the yellow torrent that flows in the middle and lower reaches.

Lijiaxia Reservoir, Photo by Bastille Post

The clear water at the park, Photo by Bastille Post

Photo by Bastille Post

Ecology First, Tourism Second

Traveling up the mountain by car, the reporter observed that Kanbula Geopark remains relatively low-key compared to Qinghai's better-known attractions like Qinghai Lake and Chaka Salt Lake. Only designated a UNESCO Global Geopark in 2025, the site was still undergoing tunnel construction during the reporter's visit.

Qinghai, after all, is the source of three great rivers — the Yangtze, Yellow, and Lancang — earning it the title "Water Tower of China." National policies here have consistently prioritized ecological protection and high-quality development, which has helped avoid large-scale commercialization. Here, you won't find dense rows of shops or amusement facilities. Instead, most tourists explore the area by car or chartered vehicle.

The clear water at the park, Photo by Bastille Post

Currently, the Kanbula Geopark operates 25 tour buses and 19 boats, along with five wooden boardwalks and a glass walkway for visitors to admire its rare geological treasures up close.

The clear water at the park, Photo by Bastille Post

The glass walkway, Photo by Bastille Post

The glass walkway, Photo by Bastille Post

While shops are not densely packed, stalls can be seen everywhere in the park. Local villagers in traditional clothing sell dairy products and unique decorations. Some even sell pre-cut watermelons and cantaloupes in the sweltering summer heat. Seeing such sweet, refreshing fruit, who could resist buying some?

During the visit, the tour guide, overhearing that the reporter spoke Cantonese, shared a funny story. A couple from Guangdong had driven all the way to Kanbula and stayed for a month or two after sensing a business opportunity, specializing in selling watermelons. Using a strategy of "10 RMB per box, 15 RMB for a double portion with other fruits," they earned tens of thousands of yuan before happily continuing their travels. The guide chuckled, "People from the Greater Bay Area really have a business head. They know how to make money."

The park's stunning landscape, Photo by Bastille Post

Ethnic Villages Dot the Mountains of Kanbula

Kanbula Geopark is home to traditional Tibetan villages such as Dehong, Jianzang, and Gabu. Since large-scale development has been avoided, their culture and living circumstances remain relatively well preserved. But in recent years, locals have been thinking more about using tourism to improve their lives.

Photo source: Xinhua News

In April of this year, Jianzang Village opened six wooden cabin homestays, offering accommodation, meals, and cultural experiences. Sonam Dorje, the village's Party Branch Secretary, told the reporter that the village is developing rural tourism based on the geopark's resources. Once the roads are completed, visitors will be able to stay overnight, enjoying the romantic experience of falling asleep under the stars inside the geopark.

The Challenge: Turning Tourism Into Livelihoods

Though locals are willing to utilize local tourism resources, how they can truly benefit from tourism, and how these resources can be leveraged to drive local economic development, remain open questions.

Lhamo Tso, Photo by Bastille Post

The reporter interviewed Lhamo Tso, a villager from Dehong Village. She said her village has about 48 households, and her parents are both farmers. After graduating from university, she chose to return home to take care of her family. Her annual income is around 20,000 to 30,000 RMB, mostly from farming or occasional odd jobs.

She admitted that opportunities to earn money here are scarce, and medical expenses for her family are a heavy burden. "If I really want to improve my life, I'll have to leave and work in a factory," she said. She hopes the local government can boost the economy as tourism develops, suggesting practical measures like charging for parking or better managing visitor flows.